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| 1.8 Liter Turbo Discussion area for the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine. |
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We'd like to get advice on what we should do to prepare our 2000 1.8T for the higher boost pressure associated with chipping. We've read the painful stories of hidden vacuum leaks & cracked hoses & thought that might be a good place to start - replacing all the 6 year old vacuum hoses.
We open the hood & take off the engine cover & there are all sorts of interesting looking hoses & lines. What would you recommend replacing? We are motivated but clueless! We've also gone to hosetechniques.com & looked at what to buy for this venture - Turbo Hose? Transition Hose? Hump Hose? T-Bolts? SVH by the foot? What size? Is there a pretty straight forward approach? Get 6 feet of this size, 2 feet of this size, & 10 zipties? Any inspired guidance would be appreciated. Ben in Austin |
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I got all the stock large stuff from Potter at parts4vws.com and found some nice small vac line from a local race shop.... The small vac lines are the not that bad its the Vac amp and large vac lines that go into it that you need to replace. I would remove and inspect everything.... then replace what needs it and make sure you use hose clamps and ditch the stock clamps.. Doing this cost me about $95.
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2000 Reflex Yellow 1.8T GLX Mods, O2M 6 speed, EFI systrms DFI, GT30 Turbo, MBC, 62ibs Injectors, 3in Downpipe and Exhaust,custom water/air ic, ATP Exhaust Manfold, ATP Fuel Pump,Adjustable FP Reg, AutoTech steel flywheel W/Power Clutch, and HKs BOV, stroked to 2.0L, ported head W/shrick cams. 11,70@122..Dyno 409HP 370TQ @ 12PSI on 116 Octane. Other cars, 07 Tahoe LTZ and 06 620HP LS2 427ci GTO..FTI cam,AFR Heads,FAST Intake,Kooks Headers, and 175 NX Nitrous..9.73@142 on nitrous.. |
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Thanks Holland, Bob, & the ever mysterious NOR. We'll tackle changing out the vacuum hoses over the Holidays. Is there anything else you would recommend in preparation for chipping.
We have a DV valve on the way & I think we require a 4-BAR fuel pressure regulator for our APH engine. Ben in Austin |
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The APR chip does need a 4 BAR.. Alot of the other chip tunners say you dont... I had one from day one... I would say get a 4 bar and a N75J valve also... go to Parts4VWs.com and you can pick 4 bar and N75J for around $170.. The J Valve will rase the boost spike about 2-3PSI and boost level 1-2PSI and that with the chip will make 175+WHP on a stock bug...then do a samco turbo inlet, 2.5 downpipe and catback... 200WHP will be in sight... its good for mid 14 sec 1/4 mile times.. then do a nice IC and a KO4...230WHP will be good for high 13 sec 1/4 mile times.. Then the love bug turns into angry R32 and Mustang killer!!!!!
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Sniper:
If you ran the same software with both turbo's you'd be hampering your k04's capabilities. Revo or Giac will probably change your software for a minimal fee rather than causing you to purchase a full 'flash'. Ben: That sounds about right to me. 3.5mm hoses all 'round, and a couple of those connectors. DV, and FPR. I dunno if you'll get anything, but you might want to change your air filter; might not. You'll get a huge bump in power anyway, you won't notice it. But make sure your maintenance is up to par. (Fuel filter? Air filter? Oil change?) I too have an APH. Went upsolute for a couple years, then APR. Ran 4bar FPR for both. Sorry I don't have an accurate upsolute vs apr comparison, I had a faulty MAF when I made the change. |
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Once again thanks to everyone for the helpful thoughts.
We've recently done the nasty fuel filter replacement & Zack likes changing the synthetic oil every 5K miles. Let me ask one question - Do you guys have any concerns with putting a new DV, 4 Bar FPR, & N75J on it before it's chipped. Will the car run ok before chipping or do you have to do it at the same time? Ben in Austin |
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You might trigger something ... maybe not.
If you do, would it be much effort to swap the parts back into place and wait? If it caused a code, and you couldn't get together w/a vag-com then swap back the parts; then it'll likely re-adapt and maybe even clear the codes after self diagnosis okay's things again. |
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In the next month, I'm switching to silicone (ALL vacuum hoses and the whole turbo line from filter to intake.) I just fixed my 3rd line in 2 months.
I bought some "straight" hoses from Forge since I'm tired of giving VW my money. My problems have been all the hoses coming from the intake manifold and valve cover. Also look into the smaller hoses coming from the turbo and the N75. Just replace them all. Its a couple hundred dollars (silicone) and a lot less trouble. My 50 cents worth... |
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Heres some more hoses to replace that are not really mentioned. Playing with some of the hoses tonight I noticed all the hoses on the passenger side of the car (vacuum) are cracked and hard. Some hoses I could see cracks on the inside. Start with the TB (small hose) and work your way back. Also learned the car has another purge valve ($90 one) located behind the passenger headlight. Look at those lines too.
Soon I will not have to worry anymore about hoses. |
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