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Old 12-08-2006, 03:22 PM
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Default Vacuum Hoses from H---

We'd like to get advice on what we should do to prepare our 2000 1.8T for the higher boost pressure associated with chipping. We've read the painful stories of hidden vacuum leaks & cracked hoses & thought that might be a good place to start - replacing all the 6 year old vacuum hoses.

We open the hood & take off the engine cover & there are all sorts of interesting looking hoses & lines. What would you recommend replacing? We are motivated but clueless!

We've also gone to hosetechniques.com & looked at what to buy for this venture - Turbo Hose? Transition Hose? Hump Hose?
T-Bolts? SVH by the foot? What size? Is there a pretty straight forward approach? Get 6 feet of this size, 2 feet of this size, & 10 zipties?

Any inspired guidance would be appreciated.

Ben in Austin
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Old 12-08-2006, 03:54 PM
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4 ft. is probably enough. Personally I used $2/ft. hose from advanced autoparts; forgot the size sorry.

Get a small bag of zipties [just a guess, you'll need 16-20].

You might want to get a box of T connections in case you break one of the current connectors. They are a bit fragile/brittle after all this time/heat.

I forget if all of them have those lousy metal ties on them; but be careful removing those [pliers are usually enough to mangle that weird bow-tie like bend in them]. Suggest you also use a razor to slit the old hose off the connectors. .... twisting the hose off is sure to break them.

Another method [easier, but more expensive I think] is to just get those T connectors and hose and model that large chunk of connections while they're on the car. [or remove the 4 points that actually hold the whole thing]
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Old 12-08-2006, 04:54 PM
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I think 4ft would be stretching it abit, I ordered 6ft and only had about 1.5 left, 3.5mm from ecstuning.com
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Old 12-08-2006, 11:30 PM
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Are all the vacuum hoses the one 3.5mm size? Up by the passenger compartment connected to the dv - in that group?
I just thought there were some larger ones... Thanks for the guidance.
Thx
Ben
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:57 AM
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I got all the stock large stuff from Potter at parts4vws.com and found some nice small vac line from a local race shop.... The small vac lines are the not that bad its the Vac amp and large vac lines that go into it that you need to replace. I would remove and inspect everything.... then replace what needs it and make sure you use hose clamps and ditch the stock clamps.. Doing this cost me about $95.
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Old 12-09-2006, 04:26 PM
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Thanks Holland, Bob, & the ever mysterious NOR. We'll tackle changing out the vacuum hoses over the Holidays. Is there anything else you would recommend in preparation for chipping.
We have a DV valve on the way & I think we require a 4-BAR fuel pressure regulator for our APH engine.

Ben in Austin
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Old 12-10-2006, 06:20 AM
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The APR chip does need a 4 BAR.. Alot of the other chip tunners say you dont... I had one from day one... I would say get a 4 bar and a N75J valve also... go to Parts4VWs.com and you can pick 4 bar and N75J for around $170.. The J Valve will rase the boost spike about 2-3PSI and boost level 1-2PSI and that with the chip will make 175+WHP on a stock bug...then do a samco turbo inlet, 2.5 downpipe and catback... 200WHP will be in sight... its good for mid 14 sec 1/4 mile times.. then do a nice IC and a KO4...230WHP will be good for high 13 sec 1/4 mile times.. Then the love bug turns into angry R32 and Mustang killer!!!!!
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:33 PM
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Is there a software avalible that is good for the stock K03 and also good for when you upgrade to a K04?
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Old 12-11-2006, 02:35 PM
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Sniper:
If you ran the same software with both turbo's you'd be hampering your k04's capabilities.
Revo or Giac will probably change your software for a minimal fee rather than causing you to purchase a full 'flash'.

Ben:
That sounds about right to me. 3.5mm hoses all 'round, and a couple of those connectors. DV, and FPR. I dunno if you'll get anything, but you might want to change your air filter; might not. You'll get a huge bump in power anyway, you won't notice it. But make sure your maintenance is up to par. (Fuel filter? Air filter? Oil change?)

I too have an APH. Went upsolute for a couple years, then APR. Ran 4bar FPR for both. Sorry I don't have an accurate upsolute vs apr comparison, I had a faulty MAF when I made the change.
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Old 12-12-2006, 02:03 AM
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if you plan on doing a k04 go GIAC or Neuspeed
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Old 12-12-2006, 09:13 PM
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Once again thanks to everyone for the helpful thoughts.
We've recently done the nasty fuel filter replacement & Zack likes changing the synthetic oil every 5K miles.

Let me ask one question - Do you guys have any concerns with putting a new DV, 4 Bar FPR, & N75J on it before it's chipped. Will the car run ok before chipping or do you have to do it at the same time?

Ben in Austin
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Old 12-13-2006, 01:42 AM
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With a N75...the 4bar might be ok... the ECU can only pull out so much fuel and at stock boost it might throw a code...but with the N75 it might be ok... I would do it all at once..
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Old 12-13-2006, 02:15 AM
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You might trigger something ... maybe not.

If you do, would it be much effort to swap the parts back into place and wait? If it caused a code, and you couldn't get together w/a vag-com then swap back the parts; then it'll likely re-adapt and maybe even clear the codes after self diagnosis okay's things again.
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Old 12-21-2006, 08:54 PM
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In the next month, I'm switching to silicone (ALL vacuum hoses and the whole turbo line from filter to intake.) I just fixed my 3rd line in 2 months.

I bought some "straight" hoses from Forge since I'm tired of giving VW my money.

My problems have been all the hoses coming from the intake manifold and valve cover. Also look into the smaller hoses coming from the turbo and the N75. Just replace them all. Its a couple hundred dollars (silicone) and a lot less trouble. My 50 cents worth...
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Old 12-21-2006, 10:52 PM
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Heres some more hoses to replace that are not really mentioned. Playing with some of the hoses tonight I noticed all the hoses on the passenger side of the car (vacuum) are cracked and hard. Some hoses I could see cracks on the inside. Start with the TB (small hose) and work your way back. Also learned the car has another purge valve ($90 one) located behind the passenger headlight. Look at those lines too.

Soon I will not have to worry anymore about hoses.
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