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Old 12-18-2006, 11:06 PM
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Default 1.8t No Power & No Error Code

All,

I have been reading the forums and think its a great resource. Although I found some postings touching on the issues, I am having I cannot find anything specific. I have a 2000 VW with 1.8t and approximately 49k miles. The turbo went on the car and was leaking oil. The dealership replaced the turbo under the powertrain warranty. However, when the car was returned it has no power whatsoever. The difference is light night and day. There also is no spooling sound of the turbo under load as there was before. The dealer has been of no help because the computer is not throwing any codes. After being back two times they say its fine. I test drove the car with the mechanic and he said all he can do is hook the ECU and there were no codes. No explanation for the power loss except that all the sensors checked out so nothing is wrong.

I know that the MAF and AIT sensors throws a codes but not sure if a bad/malfunctioning diverter valve or vacuum leak would throw a code. Other topics mention these issues but do not know what may or may not throw a code. Also, if the turbo was leaking oil could it have fouled some sensors causing them to possibly read incorrectly?

Thanks for any assistance on what I should check/look for.

Darman
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:05 AM
flynn18T's Avatar
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Im no mechanic but that turbo should be spooling. no doubt. sounds to me like the stealership screwed something up in replacing the turbo. or perhaps only fixed the leak and didnt replace the turbo at all. i wouldnt put anything past those bastages. sorry im no help. im scratching my head due to the lack of codes being thrown. somethin aint right.
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:12 AM
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Did you have the beetle since it was new?

There's a very good chance a previous owner chiped it, didn't tell anyone, and you got lucky. It's also possible they screwed around with the settings and overboosted the turbo causing the problem in the first place.

And now, you don't get that 'chipped' boost.

anyway, where you located? Anyone w/a vag-com nearby? Run some diagnostics on it. Find how how much air pressure you're getting. I imagine you're probably back to stock #'s.

Take another 1.8t for a test drive. Remember yours (APH) was the weakest of the 1.8ts, so even that may not be equal, but it should be close.


...
To answer one of your questions: Just about ANYTHING irregular will cause an error code. Down to a pinhole in a vac line.
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Last edited by noR; 12-19-2006 at 12:18 AM..
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:21 AM
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noR,

Thanks for the quick response. I have owned the car since new and always babied it. No mods whatsoever on the car and regular maintenence per VW specs. If everything is noticed by sensors (which the mechanic mentioned) I am wondering if one may be fouled. The turbo was leaking oil and if oil was going through the the intake causing it/them not to set off. Im not sure. I will buy a boost gauge to make sure the turbo is actually giving boost. Anyone have recommendations along with a quick guide (I am somewhat mechanically inclined).

Many thanks,

Darman
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:54 AM
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could be your MAF. unplug it and see if the car runs better. if not, then it's not the MAF.

Also, look for any loose connections in the boost piping or damage to your intercooler.
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:39 AM
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Do you hear any boost leaks .... I would doubt it because you can't hear the spool. I would think if the sensors were fouled with oil you would have toooooo many codes to check, not none. My guess is the wastegate is staying open and exhuast gases are bypassing the turbo ... thus no spool. It is very funny they won't look at it further, a butt dyno can tell the difference between NO Boost and even 4PSI. I would believe if the wastegate was open there is a possibility no codes would be thrown. Where are you locate?
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Old 12-19-2006, 05:37 AM
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The problem is its a VW... lol its like a bad relationship.... you love it when its good and hate it when its bad... lol sounds like the DV might be in backwords... there is a thing called a soft code.. it wont throw a CEL but is still there on a VAG COM.. so i would look for someone with a vag com and see whats in the ECU. There is also a reason the turbo went... could be the oil line is pluged and the turbo went again.. also you need to givt about 100+ miles sometime for the CEL to go on... if there is no or low boost the ECU will show a rich code. Alot of VW techs dont look at the soft codes.... It also sounds like the tech didnt put somthing on or tight.. I say give it some time and look for someone in your area with a VAG COM and look at some stuff... If somthing is not right it will throw a code over time... or get a boost/PSI gauge and check it.. We will get you going on whats wrong.... but try the soft codes and just driving it alot... thats going to find somthing out
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Old 12-20-2006, 02:58 PM
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Chcek the how-to forums darman; hooking up a boost gauge is pretty simple, and uses minimal tools. You can do it on a cold Saturday just fine.

I'll try to find a how-to for you in a while. For your needs, something temporary would be fine.
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Old 12-20-2006, 07:34 PM
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you know what... I just got done with a 'do over' for a supposed 'certified mechanic'. He didn't tighten the cam sprocket and cost this guy whose car I bought about $3000. I put the head back together, and it didn't perform as well as I expected. Then I cleaned out the intercooler. The so called mechanic sucked a rag into the intercooler.

There are several things that will not show a code that are mechanical faults on the turbo boost system. The MAF, if failing, will always throw a code. Air leaks will code some times, but not always, strangely enough. It's not likely a turbo changout would be the problem, but a leaking actuator line that he tore getting it off the nipple sure could cause your problem. No oil pressure to the turbo would sure affect performance.

This will eliminate a few possibilities. Follow the line from the turbo actuator. Remove it CAREFULLY from the valve body that is bolted onto the firewall(if it's in the same place as TDI's, it's in front of the driver's side just below the dash) Use a vacuum source (like your MOUTH works. Ya, eat a little dirt..) If you don't feel vacuum resistance or it leaks down, voila, problem detected. Get the jerks at the stealership to replace the hose.

Actually, a new turbo is hard to detect 'spooling up'. Of course, they could have done something as equally stupid as the mechanic before me... could be a rag stuffed someplace it doesn't belong.

There should be no whooshing noise coming from the engine compartment, ybder acceleration or the mechanic has left a coupling either off or askew. Fix as necessary.

The next check that is mechanical is to remove the hose from the output of the turbo. The easiest place is right at the intake manifold. You should be able to feel the boost by placing your hand over the end of the elbow as someone presses the accelerator pedal. It won't hurt you... If you don't feel a good push, check for obstructions, remove the end going on the turbo and see that the turbo spins. Make sure there are no obstructions in the intercooler.

But are they lying to you about the loss in performance?

DO DOGS HAVE FLEAS?

If you can't get them to move, get the company rep to test drive it. Those guys don't lie.

One more thing... when hooked up to a VAG-COM, there is a reading for boost, for air-flow and there are parameters that their equipment shows. They should be able to prove to you that there is boost on the equipment and that it is within tolerances. They should be able to show the amount of air going by the MAF, which I know the TDI numbers, but don't know the gasser numbers... 850 for the TDI's... You need someone who is a bit more technical to go with you so they don't weasel out of doing their job. Get a guru. Stay away from Stealerships.
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Old 12-21-2006, 02:50 AM
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Maybe the wastegate is stuck open and preventing it from boosting
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