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Old 04-21-2007, 01:58 AM
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Default Cleaning oil pan with diesel?

I work with a guy that told me everytime he cahnges his oil he fills up the oil with diesel and runs the car for abuto 5 seconds and cleans out the oil system really well. He also said he has been doing it since he learned it in the army during nam. Also has run many many m,iles on all of his cars. To me it kinda makes me nervous and doesn't sound like such a good idae. Any ever heard of this or do it themselves?
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:14 AM
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To me... that sounds a bit like a load of crap...

Personally, I would never put anything in the oil pan that isn't oil!
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:46 AM
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I have done it on an exceptionally dirty, sludged up engine, but never just diesel--I dumped a couple quarts in with the old oil and let it idle a couple minutes to rinse it out better right before draining. Then I changed the fresh oil after 100 miles before I went to regular intervals. I think it worked well. This was on a very neglected '62 engine in a '56 Oval window OB.
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:41 AM
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Synthetic oils contain a very good detergent package. Yes its an actual detergent. ie... it disolves sludge build up, etc. If you are changing your oil on a regular basis (under 10,000 miles with a synth) you don't ever need to even think about doing this.

Tom aka Fowvay

PS... B100 makes a much better solvent than dino diesel. If you really wanted it squeaky clean you'd run that but be wary the stuff doesn't just desolve gunk but seals as well. That goes for diesel and kerosene as well.
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:23 PM
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ah ok I definitely use snthetic so I thought it was kind of a bad idea. Well if it works for him he can do it, but I think I'll just stay away from that idea.
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Old 05-13-2007, 06:30 AM
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when i worked for a 10 min oil change place a couple years ago, we did that when we removed the pan to change the gasket on pans, it does work, but just make sure you clean it all off, by the time i was done it looked like a brand new pan.
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:35 AM
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An army vehicle is one thing, a performance tune engine is another, however, I would not recommend putting diesel fuel in anything except a diesel vehicles fuel tank, diesel fuel is a dirty fuel anyway.

If you need to clean a badly sludged crankcase, Marvel Mystery oil or a half a quart of ATF mixed in without exceeding the maximum oil level should do the trick, normal driving (NO wild stuff) for about 20 miles with the ATF then drain and follow the directions with the Marvel Mystery oil.
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Cold NB1.8T
An army vehicle is one thing, a performance tune engine is another, however, I would not recommend putting diesel fuel in anything except a diesel vehicles fuel tank, diesel fuel is a dirty fuel anyway.

If you need to clean a badly sludged crankcase, Marvel Mystery oil or a half a quart of ATF mixed in without exceeding the maximum oil level should do the trick, normal driving (NO wild stuff) for about 20 miles with the ATF then drain and follow the directions with the Marvel Mystery oil.
bingo!

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Old 05-31-2007, 02:43 PM
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I'm fighting sludge build-up right now with an intermediate low oil pressure light (and the VAG-COM says it is below normal pressure.)

A guy at work says the same thing about diesel in the motor oil. Drain the old oil, and replace it with diesel fuel, then run for 15 seconds. Change the diesel out with motor oil and filter 4 or 5 times. Diesel only the first time. Do it cold and let it sit in the oil pan overnight as well.

Since the new oil pump and pick-up tube is going in next week, I want a cleaner engine before this.

The seals would be the only problem. I can see them disolving if left overnight.

I have tried all these engine flush stuff and to my amazement, my oil pressure light still comes on. Try at your own risk.
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Old 05-31-2007, 04:09 PM
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Unless you have been using crude oil and/or running extended periods of time between oil changes, it is unlikely that sludge in the engines is the cause of your low oil pressure warnings, if you have always used synthetic oil then this is even more doubtful, chances are, it is a failing oil pump assembly that is the culprit.

Do what you must but I would not suggest putting diesel fuel in the crankcase, if you have already run engine flush products in the system then I would say, run the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase (don't over fill) up to the time you have the new oil pump & pickup installed, then keep you eye on thing to see if the problem continues.
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Old 05-31-2007, 05:53 PM
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I guess the main purpose of diesel would be to disolve the sludge and carbon particles faster. There are chemicals (other than diesel) that will work well but would they disolve sludge and carbon fast (less than 500 miles of use) or gradually? Would such slow reacting chemicals cause carbon flaking? If they flake, you will have clogged filters and screens. This is still not fun to deal with.

Still interesting to read about other shade tree fixes.

I think my problem is a combination of oil pump and carbon fragments. Synthetic most of its life, especially after 100,000 miles and still changed every 3,000 miles with synthetic. Never used cheap oil either.
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyum96
I guess the main purpose of diesel would be to disolve the sludge and carbon particles faster. There are chemicals (other than diesel) that will work well but would they disolve sludge and carbon fast (less than 500 miles of use) or gradually? Would such slow reacting chemicals cause carbon flaking? If they flake, you will have clogged filters and screens. This is still not fun to deal with.

Whether or not diesel fuel will dissolve contaminants more rapidly than chemicals that are actually designed for this application is inconsequential and should be the least of ones concerns, diesel is a dirty fuel with components that could be destructive/damaging to some or all of the internal parts/surfaces of this engine.

The best and most thorough cleaning(when required) is typically done over time as appose to being done in short order.


Still interesting to read about other shade tree fixes.

I think my problem is a combination of oil pump and carbon fragments. Synthetic most of its life, especially after 100,000 miles and still changed every 3,000 miles with synthetic. Never used cheap oil either.
#1, there would not be any "carbon" build up per say in the crankcase, carbon is a formation that is primarily found on the exhaust side of the system, I.E., exhaust valves, exhaust system.

#2, it is very unlikely that your engine has developed any sludge build up that bad if at all if you have been using synthetic oil for the life of the engine with oil changes every 3,000 miles.

Aside from the oil pump, it is also possible that you have oil ring leaks etc. which could be contributing to the symtoms you are experiencing, especially considering the mileage on the engine.

A bottle of Redline S1 fuel system cleaner in a full tank of "premium" gas if you are concerned about carbon deposits and some Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase (follow product directions) if you are worried about sludge or coking, this is about as good as it gets short of disassembling the engine.
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