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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2007, 03:03 PM
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Default 1.8t sludge issues

has anyone here expereinced the 1.8t sludge problem?

what were your warning signs, how many miles when it appeared and what did you do about it?

I think i am about to encounter this problem, want to hear what everyone has expereinced.

Thanks
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:23 AM
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This is more common in Passats and A4s with the longitudinally mounted 1.8T because their oil capacity is almost a quart less than our tranverse engines. If you use synthetic oil with a new filter every 5K you should not have a problem.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:51 AM
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I have only heard of the problem with the longitudinally mounted 1.8T's .... Passat and A4 ... I didn't know they held less oil though. I have never heard a story of this happening to someone that is as anal as most of us about our oil choices ... usually johnny come latelies wanting to know what caused the problem, and they never admit to using the "cheap oil" I say "cheap" because I just changed the oil in my truck ... and the "cheap" stuff is now a lot closer to the price of the Mobil1 Pure Synth or even the cheapest Pure Synth which is specified to be used with our engines.
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSportNOLA
... I didn't know they held less oil though....
I believe it is exactly .8 quart less per change because of a different oil pan design needed to clear a front crossmember. The "fix" is a larger capacity oil filter that brings the difference down a bit.
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:34 PM
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Sludge in mine at 127,000 miles. Oil changed every 3,000 miles. Sludge not bad but your low oil light will come on for a short time. Common fix is the pick-up tube. I went ahead and replaced the oil pump in addition too the pick-up tube. I now have the larger filter but will switch back the smaller one since the larger filter rubs against a coolant hose.
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:02 PM
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At 125K miles no sludge with mine. I have only used Mobil1 synth since 54k miles (when I bought the car new.) Now I get to reset that because I am rebuilding the whole motor.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NBTurboFreak
At 125K miles no sludge with mine. I have only used Mobil1 synth since 54k miles (when I bought the car new.) Now I get to reset that because I am rebuilding the whole motor.
rebuid time, nice! I am planning to do that as well in the next year or so. Making any modifications to tthe bottom end? turning up the engine performance?
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmk
rebuid time, nice! I am planning to do that as well in the next year or so. Making any modifications to tthe bottom end? turning up the engine performance?
Increased displacement
Just a few mods, hybrid oil pan, balanced and knife edged crank, light weight race rods, JE Forged pistons bored to 82mm. and I am also getting a few other goodies.
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:37 AM
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Where are you getting the hibrid pan .... I knew I should have ordered one when they first came out, they are now like 4 times the original price.
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:09 AM
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I got lucky and found one through another forum for less than $100 shipped. Now I just need to get a new sump that is not so deep. I got it because I am rebuilding the whole motor and figured the extra protection will not hurt.
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Old 09-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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I had the "sludge" problem on my my car at 95,000 miles. I have changed the oil every 5k with a new filter. I use the Mobile 1 full synthetic with a mobile 1 oil filter. The dealership replaced the cam tensioner, replaced the pick up tube and cleaned the oil screen. Total $ $2,000.00. don't see how but hey, the warranty paid for all but $500 of it. If I had known about the pick up tube problem, I could have saved the $300.00(the cost of the pick up tube and oil screen cleaning.
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Old 11-16-2007, 12:45 AM
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I pulled my oil pan today to perform a reseal, I did not use the factory recommended sealant because it tends to breakdown and leak after awhile, I have been using Ultra Grey and it seems to be bull proof (never leaks).

I run Redline or Royal Purple 5W-30 full synthetic and when I pulled my oil pan, I found absolutely zero sludge, residue or debris in the pan and the oil pickup was clear and debris free as well, nothing but a dirty oil film, some old sealant etc. that fell in during removal.
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:23 AM
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Sludge also has a lot to do with moisture, driving conditions and pcv system function. I would even safely say that oil type comes second to these things as a group. If you do a lot of driving where the oil cannot heat up enough to get rid of it's moisture then eventually you get sludge. This is compounded with high humidity, oil type and frequency changed. Even in cold winter driving the oil might not reach these temps. Or I could be wrong. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:57 AM
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The only 1.8T I have had personal experence with was due to inadequate oil changes.

Doing dino oil at 10,000 mile intervals due to lack of funds. He started doing that around 70,000 miles with a perfectly clean motor. Around 110,000... motor is so sludged it has now consumed it's rings and is mostly likely beyond rebuilding and will need to be replaced.

I use only premium synthetics and feel uneasy going even 5000 miles between changes but did once go as far as 6000 miles and as little as <100 miles. I change by the calender not miles. Nice being able to do that since I don't drive a million miles a year.
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:57 PM
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I am the original owner of the car that belongs to the displayed oil pan, 5,000 miles was driven using the organic Castrol oil that was in the car when it was delivered to me, the very first oil change was done with Redline synthetic, I have consistently performed oil & filter changes with the use of either Redline or Royal Purple full synthetic at 5,000 mile intervals to this day.

For most people it is best to adhere to a mileage based oil & filter change schedule, however, some people don't drive much and for those individuals (like Fowvay stated) a calendar based oil & filter change schedule would be best.

The sludge and residue free condition of my oil pan and engine is a direct result of the oil that I use, the consistent oil & filter change intervals applied and my high vehicle maintenance standards, I know this for a fact because my previous car (a Honda) was subjected to almost identical maintenance regiments and after close to 90,000 miles on that car, the results were the same, plus the cam on that car looked new, as though it had just come off the parts shelf at the dealer, it showed virtually no signs of wear leaving the Honda mechanic viewing, speachless.
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:58 PM
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Can I lick the pan?
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:25 PM
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Yes but I don't recommend it, it might be your last supper...
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billsbug
Can I lick the pan?
I'll let ya lick my beater!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2010, 02:59 AM
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My 2001 1.8T Beetle at 61,000 miles has oil pressure issues. My last oil change was 6K miles ago with a Kendall "synthetic." I'm none too sure how adequate that oil is for this engine. Previous oil was Panzoil Platinum synthetic which, I believe, is good oil. I switched brands "to save money." How you save money by losing all oil pressure is beyond me. This may be the clogged pickup screen issue.

Walmart, by the way, is selling 5-quart containers of Mobil 1 for $25.

Recently, I broke the cam chain tensioner. Dark sludge-like bits showed up on the dipstick immediately after getting an oil change.

The vehicle has been to my favorite indie shop twice in the last few months. Neither they nor I thought to include an oil change. I forgot when I last had the oil changed.
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSportNOLA View Post
I have only heard of the problem with the longitudinally mounted 1.8T's .... Passat and A4 ... I didn't know they held less oil though. I have never heard a story of this happening to someone that is as anal as most of us about our oil choices ... usually johnny come latelies wanting to know what caused the problem, and they never admit to using the "cheap oil" I say "cheap" because I just changed the oil in my truck ... and the "cheap" stuff is now a lot closer to the price of the Mobil1 Pure Synth or even the cheapest Pure Synth which is specified to be used with our engines.
Isn't that the truth. I haven't seen a qt of oil cost under $4.
Funny how engine oil spiked up when gas hit $4+ a gallon but the price of oil never dropped. For the cost and the extension of miles between oil changes, synthetic is the way to go. My buddy has an Audi A4 and he said Audi requires Mobil 1 only.

This may be of interest, the new dexos oil

Last edited by dhc8guru; 10-10-2010 at 02:21 PM..
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