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| 1.8 Liter Turbo Discussion area for the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine. |
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Ok, I'm sick of seeing the friggin CEL. I bought the hose now what? The pic points to the hose I got. Is it something I can do without John helping? Should I wait till it's warmer so I don't snap off parts installing it? How long will it take to do? Help me please.
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It's LN'z BUG rhymes with Ellen's bug The witch is back Be yourself. No one can ever tell you you're doing it wrong.-James Leo Herlihy My boy Chip | Chips garage mates Hazard switch replacement | Heater control lightbulb replacement
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The round clip thing is actually somewhat attached to the hose. It twirls around and actually I see no way to take it off.
It's about 20* here. |
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The ambient temperature in the engine compartment can be controlled by running the engine (driving the car) long enough, hoses and other parts will be heated as a result, gloves might be required for the R&R portion of the following.
Drive the car around for about 30 minutes and the parts should be warm enough to ease your worries of handling cold brittle parts, take your time and carefully apply simultaneous pressure to both sides of the knurled points on the circular bands at each end of the hose (one end at a time), carefully work/slide the hose ends off, now remove the hose from the plastic bracket. Reverse the above for installation, suggestion, apply a thin coat of "clean" synthetic grease or oil to each O-ring so that they are not damaged during the installation process. That is an expensive hose, hope it resolves your car DTC issue.
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Youth ages, immaturity is out grown, ignorance can be educated and drunkenness sobered.....But stupid, lasts forever. |
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Do I use a screw driver or other flat type tool (putty knlfe) to pry the middle bracket out?
And yeah, it was expensive that's why I haven't replaced it before now. Also do you guys know how to get my car out of limp mode? I can't drive this way anymore! A whole week this way and it's killing me! That's why I went & got the part. Thinking it was only getting worse (more cracks and the end popping off) ![]() |
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Do not use anything other than you hands on this operation, squeeze each ring on both sides on the knurled spots and carefully work the hose off.
Limp mode is usually reset everytime you cycle the ignition (turn it of then back on) but limp mode will reappear if the problem still exists, however, once the problem is resolved there will likely be DTC's stored in the ECU, you will need a scan tool or vagcom in order to erase any codes. |
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I understand about the end rings and having to squeese them. It's the other part that looks like a placement clip that's more towards the middle of the length of hose. Will that just pull out and the new one push in?
Thanks for your help ![]() |
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I think the center clip isn't even required for functionality, i think it just keeps the hos from moving. Unless the hose is a different part# from the 2.0L hose used for the same purpose. It's a tool-less job though to replace the hose.
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Quote:
That clamp holds the hoses in place, simply lift up slightly on the top lever portion of the clamp and pull the lower clamp section out far enough to allow the hose to be removed, this part is easier than unhooking the two hose ends. |
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Well, I did it!! It was a real pain in the you know what but I did it. It was hard to squeeze and push both equally at such a weird angle. The airbox side was alot easier than the other end. I also scanned the car and only got PO411. I cleared it, the light went off and I went for a spin around the block. Aaaaand I'm happy to report no more limp mode or CEL!!!W00t W00t!! Here's a blury pic of the new one. I wasn't sure what to do with the two wires.Thanlk you again for your help!
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