Sporadic hesitation when I stomp on it :(

[Too Cold NB1.8T]

Originally Posted by Lnzbug

My car has a coolant problem too. I have a leak somewhere & if the coolant level is low I get the flashing red temp light when my car is cold. I turn my car off & restart. The light goes from blue to flashing red. After doing this a few times no more blue or red light.

If there is no coolant on the engine, on the ground or in the oil, then there is a possibility that the coolant level sensor in the recovery tank (where you add coolant) may have gone bad thereby causing your flashing coolant light symptom, or, it might be a bad coolant temperature sensor, the one located nearest to the firewall on the left (driver-side), neither of these parts (at the VW dealer >recommended<) should be very expensive.

[Lnzbug]

I do have some on the engine and on the ground. Left front. The engine is too dirty to really see and it's too cold here to clean it yet. I'll just keep pouring it in and wait for spring Thanks for your help. And the new noise is probably a DV So I will be getting a new one soon, I hope.
http://goapr.com/VW/products/r1.html

[orionredwing]

My fiancee's car just threw a P1432 SAIP code this week, and I logged on to search the forums and found your thread. Hope your car is better now. For now, I just cleared the code, and will monitor. If it pops up again, I'll chime in for some assistance, and get everyone's suggestion on places to check.

My fiancee replaced her MAF about 3 years ago, so the P1432 looks like a new problem in a related area?

As a side, but somewhat related note, I'm new to the forums (1st post). If it hasn't been posted already, wanted to let everyone know that if you're using an aftermarket drop-in filter like K&N, do not over oil it. Less is better. It wasn't until years later that I found out my MAF went bad in my Prelude because I over oiled it. That wasn't why my fiancee's MAF failed, but it's a common reason in some makes.

[zeusenergy]

Originally Posted by Too Cold NB1.8T

It is true that the SAIP system is only for cold starts and goes off line with-in the first 5 or 10 minutes but much of what you have stated here is just a reiteration of what I have already said in my previous post, the real problem here is for those that live in smog regulated states like California, you will not pass, also, the SAIP system is designed to deal with any unburned fuel in the exhaust stream durining the cold run duration, without this unit in place and functioning properly, over time this might make for premature casualties of the vehicles oxygen sensor(s) and catalytic converter due to a rich condition, $$$$.

Besides, I don't know many people who would want to drive around with their CEL on 24/7 (I know I wouldn't), by-the-way, having the CEL illuminate all of the time would render it's whole purpose as a warning aid useless, should anything else fail or go wrong one the vehicle with a neutralized CEL warning system, ones first warning could be anything up to a blown engine.

Besides, it doesn't sound like Lnzbug is looking for ways to complicate her existing situation, I could be wrong but I think her interest might be in quickly finding the least painful long term proper remedy and removing the SAIP ain't it.

Adding to what you said, I think she just paid for hose(s) for the SAIP, too. Be a shame if she was to toss them aside now, right?

[Lnzbug]

Thanks guys. I will NOT be pulling anything out that VW designed into the car. As far as I'm concerned it's there for a reason. The wastegate actuator is not original. It's been replaced about 2 or so years ago by VW. The hubby doesn't think it's the DV but he really hasn't looked at it so I don't know how he knows. I did ask VW and they have the one that goes into the TT for $60. Said it should be better than the original beetle one. I do have 192k so I don't want to put more than I have to into this car. One of these days when I'm off during daylight I'll look at all the hoses. I'll clear the CEL again in the AM & see how long it lasts.

[Lnzbug]

Well, I took him to Dub Werks & they found a loose hose. It was just barely touching. He clamped it on & all is better. He did ask me if I was having brake trouble. I told him only in wet or snowy weather. It was a part of the brake system where the hose was loose. I would have to floor the pedal & then press again to get a response. Not every time, just when not used for a few miles. He kept asking me if I was chipped too. It seems my boost gauge is not reading right. It shows -10 when at idle and would go up to 10 when pushed. I'm stock so he figures it's the gauge. I also found out I need a new radiator. Hopefuly that will stop the leak. And last but not least he said it's probably my ball joint making that noise we thought was the DV. Not too bad for 192k. All this info for a very reasonable price.
Thank you for all your help guys

[gringoloco2000]

Guys, I have similar hesitation issues after doing some work in the engine area. It is throwing a CEL, but I don't know the code yet. I put in a new alternator and had to take off the throttle body (gently of course). I also replace a crack case breather hose that is in the mess of vacuum and breather hoses. I think that I broke something. Before the alternator, it was running fine. I need to go to Autozone to get the code. I really need VAC-COM. I have a Touareg too, so i can justify it. I really hope that I can figure this out. I ordered some new Turbo parts for a weekend project, but don't want to star that until I am sure it is working like it used to.

[Lnzbug]

After going thru all this I would first tell you to make sure ALL your hoses are good. I had 1 lose and it was nothing but problems. Get the code I come back & hopefully it's an easy fix.

[zeusenergy]

Originally Posted by gringoloco2000

Guys, I have similar hesitation issues after doing some work in the engine area. It is throwing a CEL, but I don't know the code yet. I put in a new alternator and had to take off the throttle body (gently of course). I also replace a crack case breather hose that is in the mess of vacuum and breather hoses. I think that I broke something. Before the alternator, it was running fine. I need to go to Autozone to get the code. I really need VAC-COM. I have a Touareg too, so i can justify it. I really hope that I can figure this out. I ordered some new Turbo parts for a weekend project, but don't want to star that until I am sure it is working like it used to.

What's your location? I'm in New England and will scan you up if you want. If you are somewhere else, I'm sure there must be a member close to you that will do the same.

[johnmichael]

Originally Posted by zeusenergy

What's your location? I'm in New England and will scan you up if you want. If you are somewhere else, I'm sure there must be a member close to you that will do the same.

Is there even a thread on this forum for vag com volunteers?

I'm in Seattle, and more than willing to help anyone, given a bit of notice.

[Lnzbug]

http://vagcomlocator.com/tinc?key=cS...ormname=VAGCOM