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| 1.8 Liter Turbo Discussion area for the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine. |
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2 Questions. My oil light is coming on but it has plenty of oil in it and its beeping. After a few minutes, it goes off. Also, what type of oil should you use in these 1.8 turbo cars. Its not a performance car. It has around 93k miles and I just bought it. Thanks,
Jason |
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You can find me in the Vortex. Bye. |
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Im having the exact same problem. MY ligt was coming on periodically and i topped it off because i saw it was a bit low and now everytime i accelerate it comes on and beeps repeatedly. Could it be that i topped it off too much? The light goes off when i slow down or come to a complete stop which is the opposite of everybody elses problem ive read about.
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When the light flashes, it means pull over NOW.
Sorry guys, you shouldn't be driving unless you know what the cause is and have a good excuse. Here's some good luck; I hope nothing got seriously damaged. |
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Mine is doing the exact same thing. Just started it today. Comes on beeps 3 times while accelerating. As soon as I stop, it goes off, then when I take off again, it comes back on and beeps 3 more times. Goes off everytime I stop, then comes back on when I take off. Anyone ever figure this out?
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M.
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In der Automobil-Scheune '02 NBT, A/T, Moonroof, Platinum Gray, Flannel Gray Leather Interior (Currently on the slab in the morgue, possible ressurection in the offing) '05 NB Convertible, Tip 6sd, Dark Flint Gray Edition, Garnet Red Top, Bordeaux Red Leather Interior '01 Corvette Convertible, Magnetic Red, Light Oak Top, Light Oak Leather Interior '96 Suburban LT 2500, 454BB, Summit White, Neutral Leather Interior '95 Camaro Z28 Convertible, Polo Green, Black Top, Tan Leather Interior |
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OMG! The oil light is red, not yellow, in color; it's not a warning, it's red to inform you that a critical condition has occurred! The oil light in a New Beetle means low/inadequate oil pressure (not that the oil-level is low)! When the oil light is "on", your oil-pressure is below the required 1.2-1.6 bars of pressure. Keep running the engine with the oil light illuminated and "very bad things" will happen to your 1.8L turbo-engine.
![]() If the engine-oil level is full and the oil-light is "on", then something is seriously wrong with the engine-oil pressure level. The use of synthetic engine-oil will not cause a "bad" oil-pressure reading. The VW 1.8L turbo-engine is designed for synthetic engine-oil that meets the VW 502.00 engine-oil specifications (which is formulated for use with the high-sulfur US gasolines; the VW 505.00 specification is formulated for low-sulfur European gasolines). A lot of us use Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30 full-synthetic engine-oil (the label states "European Formula" right on the front and the VW 502.00/505.00 conformance is listed on the back); it's readily available at Advanced Auto stores and AutoZone stores in the US. The earlier recommendation to replace the engine-oil pick-up tube (along with the input screen) is absolutely correct. Some portion of your engine-oil system is obstructed. DO NOT run your engine again until you've resolved your engine-oil pressure issue!
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Mullard EL34 -------------------------- Klaus --- 2000 Volkswagen New Beetle GLS (1.8L 20V turbo) w/ 5-speed manual transmission Sport Edition F7 wheels (16"x7") Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires (205/55ZR-16) |
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Recommended Oil for the 1.8T is Synthetic 5W40 or 0W40. I am running Mobil One 0W40 European Formula in mine. Runs nice and smooth. Castrol Edge 5W40 also meets or exceeds VW, Porsche, Mercedes, Audi, BMW standards. Both it and the Mobil One 0W40 is available at your neighborhood Autozone. Also because of the Turbo and the added generated heat I would recommend changing your oil every 4000-5000 miles. Sludge is a killer in our engines which also can clog oil pumps. My suggestion is to buy a can of Seafoam. Poor the entire can into your crankcase and run it for a day see if your oil light goes off. Seafoam is a solvent and an excellent lubricant, it may free up your clogged oil channels. If not it may be time to bring it to a professional. Also after a couple of days running Seafoam change your oil and filter. |
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If your oil light comes on it has something to do with the Oil pump not able to perform as needed. Either it is failing or the Oil pick up tube is clogged by loose sludge floating around. |
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I had a similar issue on my Jetta ( I know, not a NB, but still a VW) Anyway, it turned out to be a bad oil pressure sending switch. If possible, hook up a gauge to see what the oil pressure actually is. If the light goes off and the gauge tells you that you have adequate pressure, most likely the pressure sending switch is bad. I agree it is probably not a great idea to be driving with the light flashing, but I also have a hard time believing all these cars have failing oil pumps.
Good luck, Glenn
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2007 VW New Beetle 52K (hers) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 137K (mine) 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 229K (kids) 1983 Mercedes 300D 251K (diesel commuter) 1965 Corvair Corsa 97K (fun car) |
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I believe that the actual oil pumps are pretty durable and don't fail often. It is more likely that the Oil pick up tube and screen get clogged due to neglect by not chainging the oil in time or using an incorrect grade of oil. Whatever the reason it would be advisable to have it checked as soon as possible. |
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I've got to pop in here and clear up one point for everyone. There have been a few references to the sludge problem with the 1.8T.
That is correct but it only affected the non-transverse mounted 1.8T's found in the Passat and Audi A4. Longitudinally mounted engines had a different oil pan and sump that was prone to sludge build up on engines that were clearly abused by not having oil changes done at the prescribed intervals or had the wrong the oil in them for an extended period of time. NB,GTI and Jetta 1.8T's did not suffer from this problem. Now, if wrong oil, dirty filters and lack of proper oil changes occur in these cars, then sure, sludge could be a problem but it's rare and not prevalent in these models. Nuff said ![]() |
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What? How is a gunked up filter going to clean anything better? I went one time doing an oil change and not doing the filter in my 2.0L, and that's only because I couldn't get the darn filter off and knew I was going to be having my mechanic do some work for me around when the next change would be so they could handle it :P
I always do filter with the oil change. And I do my changes around 5k. Also, its not even that its a good thing to do the filter at the changes, but often most filters are only rated to 7500 or 10,000 miles anyway. 30k is just far too much.
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The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI ![]() The money saver:2001 Jetta TDI GL. 114k. Dead auto, swapped to 3 pedals. Hubby's DD and our trip car |
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![]() My take on this is don't risk it; if the light is coming on stop the engine. I don't know how much a rebuild on one of these engines is or if a low mileage pull out engine is available, but I'm sure it would be a nice down payment on a 2012 Beetle.
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2000 GLS 1.8T "Pipi Langstrumpf" 2005 Vespa GT200L Granturismo "Senor Manetta" 1972 Triumph TR6R Tiger "Bettie" |
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