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Thought I'd toss a DIY on here for the rear brakes. I had some initial problems finding a suitable turn-in tool but decided to just wing it, and it turned out to be easier than anticipated. Check it out:
1) Using a lug wrench, barely loosen the lug bolts on the side you are working on. Ensure that the emergency brake is all the way down, and not engaged. Chock the front wheels and put the car in gear. Jack the car up and put a jackstand under the rear axle on the same side. Leave the jack under there as a safety, but lower it enough so that the jackstand takes some weight. Remove the wheel bolts all the way and pull the wheel off. If you have lug caps, they do NOT unscrew, instaed they just pull off and you should have a "puller" in your tool kit for them shaped like a ring. ![]() 2) Now you have open space to work. Use a large screwdriver as a prybar, hook it under the tab that stops the emergency brake arm from going too far, and lever the screwdriver towards the ground. This will put enough tension on the arm to remove the cable. ![]() 3) Pry the clip from the bottom of the caliper that secures the e-brake cable in place. Be careful not to lose this piece, as it may fly off when you remove it. ![]() ![]() 4) There are two bolts (13mm) that secure the caliper to the two sliding dowels fixed to the caliper bracket. The dowels have 15mm hex at the ends near the caliper tabs. Use the two wrenches at the same time and unscrew the 13mm bolts from the dowels. ![]() 5) Pull the caliper out of its mounting bracket towrds the back of the car. Use the large screwdriver to assist it by prying it off if need be. The brake pads should fall right off, but use the screwdriver if they are tight. Mine were very low! ![]() 6) Now you need to turn the piston back into the caliper. There's two ways that I went with, YRMV. The first thing you need to do is hold the caliper in a way that does NOT twist the brake line too much. Don't ever let the caliper just hang by the hose either. Using needlenose pliers (large ones) turn the piston in as much as you can. It may take a few tries to get the hang of doing it. If you get two entire turns, good. More is better. Now take a C-clamp out that will fit over the whole caliper all the way back to the bolt that holds the E-brake arm on. You will need to line up the small round end piece with the caliper piston, and begin tightening it. There will be alot of pressure on the piston before it starts moving. Once you get the piston almost all the way back into the caliper, you can return to using the needlenose to make sure the piston is all the way in. ![]() ![]() ![]() 7) Put the new pads in place. If they are difficult to insert, use a hammer to LIGHTLY tap them all the way in. ![]() 8) Line up the bottom caliper bolt and push both of the dowels back in as far as they will go (toward the outside of the car) and thread the bottom bolt in. You CAN tighten it at this point, for the dowels will allow the caliper to pivot. ![]() 9) Now you can push the caliper in at the top, and replace the top bolt. Be careful that you are not cross-threading the bolt. It doesn't take much pressure to push the caliper in to get the bolt started, but make sure the bolt and hole are lined up right. Reverse the rest of the instructions to get it all back together!
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You can find me in the Vortex. Bye. Last edited by zeusenergy; 08-29-2008 at 12:57 AM.. |
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Nice write-up and pics. Figured I'd throw this in there for those who are into cool tools. Makes the job much easier too.
Here's a brake reset tool made by Metalnerd (who also makes excellent timing belt tools). Part MN3272 - Rear Brake Reset Tool http://www.metalnerd.com/cat08.htm ![]()
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2000 New Beetle GLS TDI 5 speed swap w/SBC Stg 3 clutch and Dieselgeek short shifter, RC3, PP520's, Eurojet SMIC, 3 bar map, Dieselgeek skidplate, 2" lift w/VR6 springs, 2.5" turbo-back straight pipe "weedburner" side exhaust, air horn, ABD Cup front bumper, HID retrofit, LED tails, Bernt Pod w/McNally gauges. WISH LIST: VNT 17/22 hybrid turbo, RC5 and other silly stuff. |
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zeusenergy, thank you very much for the rear brake DIY and accompanying photos. A friend of mine and I were able to successfully change my rear brake pads this morning, due in great part to your tutorial.
We came back in the house and studied your photos a number of times. Thanks again!
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"No trees were killed in the sending of this message but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced." Kenny's Silver '04 NB Convertible GLS 1.8 Turbo http://newbeetle.org/forums/photos-new-beetles/25692-kennys-silver-04-nb-convertible-gls-1-8-turbo.html |
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I've been using this kit from Harbor Freight to do my brakes.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices |
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Yours had an incredibly low price, though. Mine was $39.99, which I thought was pretty reasonable. However, $19.87 is out of sight! |
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Has anyone successfully used this tool for retracting the rear pistons?
disc brake piston tool | Auto Repair | Auto Repair | Tools | Princess Auto |
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Sometimes you need the pressure pushing in while turning and not just the turning to get the piston back in. |
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This site has been a life saver over and over and I have only had new beetles for a couple of months. My wife and I got an 04 convertable and I liked it so much I got myself and 01 turbo 5 speed. Went to work on the rear drivers side caliper cuz it was loose only to find out it was missing the outside bolt that holds on the bottom pin. Never having taken apart this caliper before I was able to do so without fear due to this posting. God Bless you all who contribute so much info and photos.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thank you again.... |
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