Bad Timing Belt - Need Head Rework

[D2Beetle]

Well I got the cylinder head off yesterday, and all four cylinders have valve strikes. I did have one surprise, I thought that the 2000 APH was a 16 valve and Cowboys' is actually a 20 valve.

I did not like the first set of DIY photos, so I took some more today and those where better; so as soon as I get them annotated I'll post them.

There was a moment yesterday when I realized the head was not going to come off and my neighbor pointed out that I missed a bolt. I do not have a pic of it, but on CCH DIY 015 it is just to the underside of the intake opposite of #1.

[D2Beetle]

Step Twenty-Seven: [CCH DIY 073 thru 079] Remove the cylinder head. You will need the head bolt special tool T10072. The head bolts must be loosened in the sequence noted in pic 073. When you loosen them, you should hear one or two sharp squeak or crack sounds, then move on to the next one and repeat the sequence until they no longer make the sound then you can remove them.

I believe that the head gasket was already leaking around cylinder number four, due to the oily and black discoloration on the block. The head gasket remained stuck to the block, which should make it easier to get off.

You can also see the valve to piton impact on all cylinders. So now it is clean up time and after that I'll decide on putting new pistons in it or not.

[D2Beetle]

Here are some close up cylinder head pics showing the bent valves. My next steps are to remove the exhaust and intake manifolds and teh secondary air pump valve, before sending it in to be re-manufactured.

[D2Beetle]

Well the cylinder head is off, but before I can send it to Frank Irving to be repaired I need to remove the SAP Solenoid Valve, Intake and Exhaust Manifolds and the Timing Belt Tensioner.

Step Twenty-Eight: [CCH DIY 090] Remove the SAP Solenoid Valve; three hex screws and wa-lah.

Step Twenty-Nine: [CCH DIY 091 thru 095] Remove the intake manifold; two bolts and eight hex screws. The intake is some what heavy so pay attention and do not let it fall. I also added a couple of pics showing the injectors; just so you could see what they look like from the inside.

Step Thirty: [CCH DIY 096] Remove the exhaust manifold protective cover; the ones you loosened in Step Nineteen.

Step Thirty-0ne: [CCH DIY 097 thru 099] Remove the exhaust manifold; there are thirteen bolts. The exhaust manifold is also heavy so pay attention and do not let it fall. I also added a couple of pics just so you could see what it looks like from the inside.

Step Thirty-Two: [CCH DIY 100 and 101] Remove the timing belt tensioner; one hex bolt and wa-lah!

YOU ARE DONE REMOVING AN APH CYLINDER HEAD!!! [CCH DIY 102 and 103]

Now you get to clean the engine block mounting surface so you can reinstall the replacement cylinder head.

[D2Beetle]

Drop off to Frank Irving has been scheduled for the 24th.

In the mean time I'll be cleaning the block surface in preparation for re-assembly.

I also have two secondary tasks...
1) Oil pan replacement
2) Check the Turbo for leaks to determine why there was so much oil in the bottom of the intercooler and in the intake manifold.

[D2Beetle]

Well I got the head dropped off at Frank's this past weekend and by the end of the week he'll let me know what the consequences are to the previous owners actions.

[ched454]

I just finished this project myself on a 2000 1.8T with all 20 valves bent, damaged primary cam shaft and 6 damaged lifters. P.O. decided to only replace the timing belt and the tensioner seized shortly thereafter. When I got to this point and sent the cylinder head to the machine shop, I pulled the bottom half and transmission out to do the inspection and clean-up. I can't tell you how much easier it is to work on and re-assemble with the engine on a stand. The timing belt, tensioner, waterpump is a 20 minute job. Also, the car has 121K miles so it was the perfect time to replace the clutch assembly.

Hope the head news is good!!

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

I just finished this project myself on a 2000 1.8T with all 20 valves bent, damaged primary cam shaft and 6 damaged lifters. P.O. decided to only replace the timing belt and the tensioner seized shortly thereafter. When I got to this point and sent the cylinder head to the machine shop, I pulled the bottom half and transmission out to do the inspection and clean-up. I can't tell you how much easier it is to work on and re-assemble with the engine on a stand. The timing belt, tensioner, waterpump is a 20 minute job. Also, the car has 121K miles so it was the perfect time to replace the clutch assembly.

Hope the head news is good!!

I would have liked to take the engine out, but Bentley says that you can do it all with the motor in the car, so I trying it. I'm not certain about the clutch and will not know until I drive it.

So how is your NB running now? Better? Worse? Cannot tell a difference?

I hope my head news turns out not so bad.

[ched454]

Yeah, you can definitely do the work with the bottom half in but after seeing how hard a hit my engine took to bend all the valves I thought it was better to take a close look at the rods and bearings. Also wanted to make sure any debris that may have fallen into the pan wasn't also in the oil pump, etc. So I took the opportunity to clean everything back to nearly new condition before reassembly. I really only wanted to do this once.

I've put about a 100 miles on the rebuild so far but everything seems real good (fingers crossed). I really like the engineering in this car.... a bit more advanced than the '68 Beetle I had in high school.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

Yeah, you can definitely do the work with the bottom half in but after seeing how hard a hit my engine took to bend all the valves I thought it was better to take a close look at the rods and bearings. Also wanted to make sure any debris that may have fallen into the pan wasn't also in the oil pump, etc. So I took the opportunity to clean everything back to nearly new condition before reassembly. I really only wanted to do this once.

I've put about a 100 miles on the rebuild so far but everything seems real good (fingers crossed). I really like the engineering in this car.... a bit more advanced than the '68 Beetle I had in high school.

Well all sounds well, hopefully mine will start on the first crank and I have my fingers crossed for the both of us.

[ched454]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

Well all sounds well, hopefully mine will start on the first crank and I have my fingers crossed for the both of us.

well get this... so the car was dropped off in my driveway by a flatbed last February completely dead after sitting for the prior six months in the snow. Pushed it into the garage and began to take it apart. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the moment of truth... starts right up with a 1/4 tank of year old stale gas....

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

well get this... so the car was dropped off in my driveway by a flatbed last February completely dead after sitting for the prior six months in the snow. Pushed it into the garage and began to take it apart. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the moment of truth... starts right up with a 1/4 tank of year old stale gas....

I'll be posting my restart attempt on YouTube and hopefully my result will be the same.

[D2Beetle]

Well Frank has provided me with the "Good News and Bad News"...

... The Good News:
Only 12 of the 20 valves are bent and the exhaust side cam and lifter look good as well.

... and The Bad News:
Here is Frank's commentary and recommendations for the intake side...

"The lifters that are damaged are the 2, 5, 8 and 11 lifters. Those are the middle intake lifters for each cylinder. The wear patterns on the camshaft are less apparent, but identifiable. The outside edges of each center lobe are worn. If you notice, in the picture CCH DIY 011, there is also pitting on the #10 cam lobe."

So it looks like I need a new intake cam,

[ched454]

How many miles are on these parts? I think the wear seems reasonable considering the interference especially if there is 100K+ on stock parts. GREAT news that the cylinder head is good!

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

How many miles are on these parts? I think the wear seems reasonable considering the interference especially if there is 100K+ on stock parts. GREAT news that the cylinder head is good!

Just under 95,000. That bad cam is the thorn in my side now.

[raymondlee]

im in the middle of refreshing my head right now. hats off to ya. good work. 1.8t's look a bit more of a task than my 2.0. hats off to ya!!!

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by raymondlee

im in the middle of refreshing my head right now. hats off to ya. good work. 1.8t's look a bit more of a task than my 2.0. hats off to ya!!!

Thanks, and you are right; the head rebuild on my '98 2.0 was easy compared to this one and as soon as the weather warms up a bit, 50's or higher, I'll be back into it.

[eliteboi]

Originally Posted by ched454

well get this... so the car was dropped off in my driveway by a flatbed last February completely dead after sitting for the prior six months in the snow. Pushed it into the garage and began to take it apart. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the moment of truth... starts right up with a 1/4 tank of year old stale gas....

I didn't know u where in westy

[ched454]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

Thanks, and you are right; the head rebuild on my '98 2.0 was easy compared to this one and as soon as the weather warms up a bit, 50's or higher, I'll be back into it.

UPDATE: Just completed 5K miles on the rebuild. No problems at all.... not even a cel. Hope you get yours back together soon.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

UPDATE: Just completed 5K miles on the rebuild. No problems at all.... not even a cel. Hope you get yours back together soon.

Excellent. Glad to know, I look forward to hearing mine start for the first time.

I'll re-start on mine around the end of March beginning of April.