Bad Timing Belt - Need Head Rework

[D2Beetle]

Well it finally warmed up enough to start working on Cowboy again. I spent some time yesterday cleaning the block surface in preparation for the new head. I'll post pics a soon as I get it all cleaned off.

[D2Beetle]

Well I spoke with Frank (TDI Club) yesterday and he has one more contact to check with, but it looks like my budget really, is not going to support a new CAM replacement at this time.

The news is bitter sweet, but at least I'll be driving it by this summer.

[WW2]

Thank you for this thread! I am doing the same work on my 2000 1.8T. It is difficult to get my hands in all the small places to remove bolts, etc. But with your article I am encouraged!

A couple of things:

For the special tool for the tensioning pully, I used an M5x10cm stud cut down to 5cm. After threading the stud in, I used a nut and washer to take up the tension from the pulley. This was suggested by my Haynes manual.

Next, I was SURPRISED with a face full of oil when I took the turbo to intercooler pipe off. About 250ml flowed out. There is probably a lot more in the intercooler.

Finally, how do I get the engine mount support bracket out? It is loose and free to move but there is not enough clearance to physically remove it!

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by WW2

Thank you for this thread! I am doing the same work on my 2000 1.8T. It is difficult to get my hands in all the small places to remove bolts, etc. But with your article I am encouraged!

You are welcome and yes I know what you mean. Good luck with your project and if you find any differences between yours and mine let me know so I can note it in the thread.

Originally Posted by WW2

A couple of things:

For the special tool for the tensioning pully, I used an M5x10cm stud cut down to 5cm. After threading the stud in, I used a nut and washer to take up the tension from the pulley. This was suggested by my Haynes manual.

I have not taken my tensioner off yet, when I do I'll add those steps to the thread and I'm using the eBahn Bentley DVD manual. I'll have to read that section and see what it says.

Originally Posted by WW2

Next, I was SURPRISED with a face full of oil when I took the turbo to intercooler pipe off. About 250ml flowed out. There is probably a lot more in the intercooler.

Been there done that, I really have not found any specific info on how much oil is considered to much; I know that some oil in the intercooler is considered "normal". Presently I really do not know what "normal" is.

Originally Posted by WW2

Finally, how do I get the engine mount support bracket out? It is loose and free to move but there is not enough clearance to physically remove it!

You will need a jack supporting the motor so you can adjust it's height. By raising and lowering the motor slightly you will find an "optimal" position that will allow you to remove the motor mount with some twisting. Be careful when you raise and lower the jack as you do not want to damage your oil pan or your other two motor mounts. I got mine out from the top.

[WW2]

I pulled the Water pump, and the Tensioner pulleys for both the timing belt and serpentine belt. The engine mount was much easier to remove after that.

But, I discovered about a quarter of the water pump impeller was missing! I started a new thread to discuss that issue.

Thanks again for the help!

[BeetleMyHeart]

Nice job on the repair so far. One thing to think about on the oil in the intercooler. Many modern cars suffer from this. I'm not totally familiar with the CCV system on the 1.8T but if it is like most other engines, that is probably your source for the oil, not the turbo seals. Some modify their vehicles (not necessarily NB's) by installing an oil seperator that must be emptied every once in a while in the CCV system to seperate the oil from the air that is circulated back into the intake system. I'd say empty the oil out and worry about getting it back together. I've been told VW engines tend to have a bit of blow-by (especially in my friends Audi with the 2.0T) so that will add a bit more oil into your CCV system.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by BeetleMyHeart

Nice job on the repair so far. One thing to think about on the oil in the intercooler. Many modern cars suffer from this. I'm not totally familiar with the CCV system on the 1.8T but if it is like most other engines, that is probably your source for the oil, not the turbo seals. Some modify their vehicles (not necessarily NB's) by installing an oil seperator that must be emptied every once in a while in the CCV system to seperate the oil from the air that is circulated back into the intake system. I'd say empty the oil out and worry about getting it back together. I've been told VW engines tend to have a bit of blow-by (especially in my friends Audi with the 2.0T) so that will add a bit more oil into your CCV system.

Thanks...

I plan to empty the oil from intercooler when I put it back together. I have casually checked the turbo and it looks fine, but I'll be making a more in-depth check before I put the head back on.

[D2Beetle]

Well I finished cleaning off the block and sanding down the valve strikes on the pistons; yep that is what Frank suggested I do and here are the pics...

[D2Beetle]

Well I got the oil cooler flushed out and the gasket replaced today; next on my list is to remove the oil pan and check the oil pump.

[ched454]

You have to be happy about how well the pistons and deck cleaned up.... looks real good. The valve marks won't cause any problem at all, the damage to mine was much worse. I even had damage to the top edge of the cylinders but fortunately the compression rings on the head gasket sealed the edge.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by ched454

You have to be happy about how well the pistons and deck cleaned up.... looks real good. The valve marks won't cause any problem at all, the damage to mine was much worse. I even had damage to the top edge of the cylinders but fortunately the compression rings on the head gasket sealed the edge.

Yes I am.

[WW2]

I cannot even begin to tell you have much this thread has helped me! I would like to save it for my reference (not publication) if you don't mind!

I am at this step (post #13) in my teardown. Like in picture CCH DIY 061 my head only has the cam cover on the front (of the car) camshaft, so if my car is any indication it is correct to only have one camshaft cover.

On another note, my family decided that they wanted me to go with them for lunch on Sunday so I reluctantly stopped working before removing the head. I needed to move the car to a better work position so I put the right front wheel back on and took the car off of the jack stands and moved it to a better work location. I then went inside and took a shower. As I was getting dressed the Earthquake in Mexico hit (3:44 PDT) giving me quite a push or two and then minor shaking for 30 or so seconds. Had I continued working on the car I most likely would have been underneath the car disconnecting the turbo at the time of the Earthquake. I would not have wanted to be under a car on jack stands when the ground starts shaking. I probably would have hurt myself trying to get out from under the car.

Guess it's a good thing my family wanted me to go to lunch with them.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by WW2

I cannot even begin to tell you have much this thread has helped me! I would like to save it for my reference (not publication) if you don't mind!

I am at this step (post #13) in my teardown. Like in picture CCH DIY 061 my head only has the cam cover on the front (of the car) camshaft, so if my car is any indication it is correct to only have one camshaft cover.

On another note, my family decided that they wanted me to go with them for lunch on Sunday so I reluctantly stopped working before removing the head. I needed to move the car to a better work position so I put the right front wheel back on and took the car off of the jack stands and moved it to a better work location. I then went inside and took a shower. As I was getting dressed the Earthquake in Mexico hit (3:44 PDT) giving me quite a push or two and then minor shaking for 30 or so seconds. Had I continued working on the car I most likely would have been underneath the car disconnecting the turbo at the time of the Earthquake. I would not have wanted to be under a car on jack stands when the ground starts shaking. I probably would have hurt myself trying to get out from under the car.

Guess it's a good thing my family wanted me to go to lunch with them.

OMG! You know I never considered planing for an earthquake when working on my NB's! Also, in my book Family First; it will save you every time!

As far as saving a copy, go for it! It always makes me smile when I have helped someone I have never met.

Yes, there is only one cam cover, I thought that was odd, but it is only needed because the ventilation tube connects above that cam. We would not want any condensation forming on the cam now would we?

[D2Beetle]

Here are the tools (from a Dremel Kit) that I used for sanding down the valve burrs on the piston tops. Two fine paper discs and one medium something of the other.

I sprayed a paper towel, that was folded in quarters, with CRC manifold cleaner and wiped the carbon burn deposits off the piston heads and then I sanded the burrs down. Remember to use a vacuum cleaner to keep any unwanted materials from getting between the pistons and the cylinder walls. I wrapped the end of the vacuum cleaner hose with duct tape, as it was metal and I did not want to accidentally scratch the cylinder wall with it.

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

Remember to use a vacuum cleaner to keep any unwanted materials from getting between the pistons and the cylinder walls.

In the old days we used to move the piston to the top of the bore and fill the piston/bore clearance with grease. De-carbon or whatever, move the piston down the bore and remove the grease....

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by simonsi

In the old days we used to move the piston to the top of the bore and fill the piston/bore clearance with grease. De-carbon or whatever, move the piston down the bore and remove the grease....

Yes, I consider that option, but was concerned with accidentally smearing it around and getting it into a water or oil jacket or both and then not be able to get it out.

[D2Beetle]

Spoke with Frank today and it seems the cam can be re-worked; so he sent it off to British Columbia and sometime this afternoon I'll know what this endeavor is going to cost ...

[D2Beetle]

Well I got the oil pan cleaned out and the old gasket material removed. Removing the oil pan is not that difficult as most of the bolts are visible and accessible, three tranny bolts 119-1, 119-2 and 119-3 and twenty for the pan; however there are three recessed oil pan bolts that are a PITA to get out, 118-2, 118-3 and 118-4... you will need a 5mm ball end allen wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet with a six inch extension, swivel and 10mm socket.

I started on the lower half of the block yesterday and noticed that the end where the oil pump is, the surface has a cross hatch pattern which makes it difficult to get the old gasket residue off [CCH DIY 120].

Oil Pan Before [CCH DIY 121]

Lower Block ready for oil pan [CCH DIY 122]

Oil Pan After with gasket material and ready for mounting [CCH DIY 123]. Note the liquid glass (upper right corner) that was used to patch the oil pan. It does not leak so for budget reasons I opted not to replace it.

[D2Beetle]

OK, people here is low down on the current cost of this project...

APH 2000 1.8T Cylinder Head Rework Real World Cost

Description....................................Pri ce..........Each..........Amount

Clean and Inspect..............................60.00........ ................60.00
Align Bore Camshaft Journals...................(no charge)..................0.00
0.2 Install and Size Valve Guides.............................40.00.........2 00.00
Reface Valves..................................20.00..... ...................20.00
3-Face Valve Seat Cut..........................90.00................ ........90.00
Lap Valves to Seats............................50.00............ ............50.00
Install Viton Valve Guide Seals #027 109 675...40.00........................40.00
Reface Valve Stems for Clearance...............40.00..................... ...40.00
Re-Face Head Gasket Surface....................40.00.................. ......40.00
Cam Chain 058 109 229B.........................61.80................ ........61.80
Camshaft 058 109 021B.........................260.00............... .........260.00
Chain Adjustor 058 109 217B...................159.80..................... ...159.80
12 Intake Valve 058 109 601CIT................................19.50....... ..234.00
8 Exhaust Valve 058 109 611EIT................................27.60....... ..220.80
4 Intake Cam Follower 058 109 309F............................26.00.........104. 00
8 Exhaust Cam Follower 058 109 309E...........................26.00.........208.0 0
Valve Cover Set 058 198 012 (Includes).......................160.00.........16 0.00
Valve Cover 058 198 025A
Valve Stem Seals 036 109 675A
Camshaft Seal 038 103 085 C
Tensioner Gasket 058 198 217
Cyl. Head Cover Gasket 058 198 025AS
Exhaust Manifold Gasket 058 253 039G
Head Gasket 058 103 383K
Serpentine Belt 06A 260 849C..................................38.00....... ...38.00
Water Pump 06A 121 011 LIT 60.00 60.00
Timing Belt Kit 06B 198 119 ( Includes)......................168.50.........168. 50
Timing Belt Tensioner 06B 109 477
Timing Belt 06B 109 119A
Tensioner Roller 06B 109 243
Idler Roller 06B 109 244
10 Head Bolts 058 103 385B.....................................3.80..... .....38.00

Shipping Sent UPS on 5-12-11...................42.68........................ .42.68

Total $2,135.58 (Yep! This should be a reminder to always stay on top of your TB Maintenance)

Miscellaneous Parts from German Auto Parts dot Com (*These are price quotes as I have not ordered them yet)
Water Flange w/O-Ring $ 12.85
Secondary Water Pump $119.25
Hose - P/N 1C0121449 $5.20
Pipe - P/N 1C0121065 $43.25
Hose - P/N 1C0121449A $6.40
Hose - P/N 1C0121088A $11.20
Sub-Total $ 198.15

Oil Funnel +Tax $ 12.39

Additional Tools
Hex Ball End Allen Wrench Set +Tax $20.84

*Estimated Total To Date: $2,366.96

Only $487.68 more expensive from my 2.0L blown head gasket - Project Grand Total: $1,879.28

I did not add any taxes (unless noted) or consumables, like the permatex for the oil pan, CRC manifold/electric contact spray cleaners, the basting pans that I used when cleaning the parts, cleaning supplies, etc...

[D2Beetle]

Got the Throttle Body, Intake Manifold and Injectors all cleaned up and ready for re-installation. I forgot to take the "before" pics, sorry about that.