Oil Light equals $550.00 repair

[sloturbo]

Turbo People. Please, you have to use synthetic oil (5w-40 syntec) and correct (bosch) oil filter for your 1.8t My oil light came on over 2,000 rpms. No oil pressure. Mechanic performed:Oil pump changed, oil pick-up and sludge removed... This was after I receive a code 16396 Bank#1 Cam Adj not reached.

[kate_the_valkyrie]

Sorry to hear about that. I hope your beetle is ok.
I think the filters are good to go as long as you use the correct oil and just make sure those VW filters are put on correctly and very tightly.

I've heard from VW owners and this includes passats and stuff too, that oil pressure is very important and the right levels, as well as the changes being done on TIME...

It is more important then the daily driver realize.

[dmbluebeetle]

Consumer complaints about VW Engine Sludge

My repair was $1300.00 because I bought it used and couldn't produce all of the receipts.

"They agree to pay for the repairs in full, but only if you can provide the proof of oil change (with receipts) for the life of the vehicle."

Others have had to pay for the Turbo replacement as well.

[Turbomania]

Unfortunately you bought a car that was not taken care of properly and the lack of receipts for oil changes etc. goes along with that. If you can find out what VW dealer this car was sold originally from, they might have some record of early service. I recently had my cam cover gasket replaced under warranty for my 99 1.8 T GLS but I had to furnish a complete service history to them. It was 2 weeks before the ten year end to my warranty with 74,000 miles. Good luck finding more info regarding your cars service history. JK

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

Consumer complaints about VW Engine Sludge

My repair was $1300.00 because I bought it used and couldn't produce all of the receipts.

"They agree to pay for the repairs in full, but only if you can provide the proof of oil change (with receipts) for the life of the vehicle."

Others have had to pay for the Turbo replacement as well.

After reading the complaints, the only question that I have is, what brand of oils were being used?

[antonym]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

After reading the complaints, the only question that I have is, what brand of oils were being used?

Probably whale oil from dead washed up whales mixed with a little sand for grittiness!!

This is also one of the reasons I stopped getting oil change at lube shops and started doing it myself... that and the stripped oil pan I have..

[dmbluebeetle]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

After reading the complaints, the only question that I have is, what brand of oils were being used?

I use Castrol Syntec, but the dealer said the sludge looked like a Pennzoil product from the type of sludge buildup....possibly a 10w30 regular motor oil.

[SMG]

Don't be surprised if that light comes back. I bet your oil pressure sensor is going. When my car did this it intermittently was throwing an oil light.

[Benderbeetle Rodrigues]

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

I use Castrol Syntec, but the dealer said the sludge looked like a Pennzoil product from the type of sludge buildup....possibly a 10w30 regular motor oil.

One of this forums sponsors is Pennzoil with a "Feel The Clean" ad at the top of this page .
I thought engine flushes were b-s and a waste of money, but a couple of mechanics I know flush their own engines on their daily drivers. I wonder if you can do that on a turbo?
Cheers.

[Fowvay]

If you use regular oil and do the changes every 5000 miles you'll prolly have sludge by about 100,000 miles. If you do them at 10,000 miles like Volkswagen and Audi orginally recommended for the 1.8T then you'll have it by 50,000 miles and it will be dramatic.

If you change it every 5000 miles and use a full synthetic your engine will be spotless inside just like mine is at 63,000 miles.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by Fowvay

If you use regular oil and do the changes every 5000 miles you'll prolly have sludge by about 100,000 miles. If you do them at 10,000 miles like Volkswagen and Audi orginally recommended for the 1.8T then you'll have it by 50,000 miles and it will be dramatic.

If you change it every 5000 miles and use a full synthetic your engine will be spotless inside just like mine is at 63,000 miles.

I have used Mobil 1 0-w30 thru 0-w40 from day one on my '98 and when I took the cylinder head off to put the new head gasket on I was surprised how clean it was. It was a golden color and I did not find any sludge at all and this was at 245,000 miles.

Originally Posted by antonym

Probably whale oil from dead washed up whales mixed with a little sand for grittiness!!

This is also one of the reasons I stopped getting oil change at lube shops and started doing it myself... that and the stripped oil pan I have..

Yep, I'm right there with you regarding the my sons' and wife's NB. When I could not get around to do it they would take theirs to an oil change place. I put a stop to that.

Originally Posted by dmbluebeetle

I use Castrol Syntec, but the dealer said the sludge looked like a Pennzoil product from the type of sludge buildup....possibly a 10w30 regular motor oil.

Perhaps the standard motor oil or the $29.95, 30 minute special is what they used.

[Fowvay]

To be honest the 2.0 is a much older design and very forgiving. My Mother's 1994 2.0 had random and occasional oil changes once going over 50,000 miles on regular oil and it made it to 200,000 miles no problem.

The 1.8T has much smaller clearances and generates a massive amount of internal stress and heat it does not forgive fools. Keep it synthetic and change it often.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by Fowvay

To be honest the 2.0 is a much older design and very forgiving. My Mother's 1994 2.0 had random and occasional oil changes once going over 50,000 miles on regular oil and it made it to 200,000 miles no problem.

The 1.8T has much smaller clearances and generates a massive amount of internal stress and heat it does not forgive fools. Keep it synthetic and change it often.

I am currently working on a head rebuild for an APH and if I'm lucky I'll actually get the head off this weekend; so I'm curious as to what its internals look like. The oil was charcoal black when I checked it before starting the project; how forgiving do you think it will be?