I want that PSHHHT sound;LOL!!!

[GNet]

My fiance' has a HKS blow-off valve (that's what he told me it was) on his car.... I really like how it sounds,so I asked him to find one for my car.

He choose the Forge Motorsports Splitter. Does anybody have one installed on their NB??? Just want some feedback..

Thanks!!!

[persiano_dubai]

well... the sound u like is the air being blown out of the blow off valve... now since 1.8t vw engines will get wrong readings with a bov, the forge bov/dv splitter is the best option and must be set at 50/50. however it will not have the full effect of the bov in terms of the sound and therefore u might wanna add a p-flo air intake that if matched with the splitter will give u the nice sound and add a couple of horses as well...

[j.loicx]

Forge motorsports also has a 004 blow off valve that stays closed at idle so it works on vws as well and it's what i have on my car and it sounds absolutely sick with or without but especially WITH a pflo intake lol

[DZLBUG]

FAIL

[GNet]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

FAIL

Fail??

what's that??


Mind you I'm not a car person and I'm just trying to get some advice here....

Never mind,I'll get my fiance' to join here..

[bgp]

Originally Posted by GNet

Fail??

what's that??


Mind you I'm not a car person and I'm just trying to get some advice here....

Never mind,I'll get my fiance' to join here..

Yeahhhhhhh...

Daddy's here..
Thanks to those who gave great advice as to what I thought I wanted to go with on my girl's ride...

Ain't no fail if she's not a car guy..I am,so I'll handle the technical stuff from now on..

[DZLBUG]

BOV's = FAIL.

In other words...don't do it. It sounds like crap and will give you a CEL.

[bgp]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

BOV's = FAIL.

In other words...don't do it. It sounds like crap and will give you a CEL.

Why is that???

I run a HKS bov on my car..Bovs releases the old boost in the compressor and helps turbos spool up faster.

From what I've read,looks like the Forge splitter running 50/50 is the best way to go...But I'm just going with what I'm familiar about modding boosted engines....Planning on doing the P-Flow like what was suggested along with an APR chip..Already bought her a downpipe and will get her a cat-back exhuast as well

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by bgp

I run a HKS bov on my car..Bovs releases the old boost in the compressor and helps turbos spool up faster.

I'm lost, why would dumping the boost be good if the only benefit is to spool up faster and so regain the boost you just lost???

Dump valves dump excess boost when the throttle closes AFAIK, no more. The 1.8T engine doesn't use a dump valve but assumes it will be recirculated, hence the CEL if it doesn't see what is expected if you replace the valve with a BOV.

[yoga129]

i installed one on my friend audi a4 it works fine. i switch the blow off valve output with the recirculate one. it give loud sound and no problem yet. its been running since 6 months ago. i am planning to install one on my beetle. waiting for it arrive.

if you like the sound and understand the risk just do it, dont care about others who said bad for engine or sound crap. some people have their own preference. you like it then install it!

[Fl_bug]

Here are a bunch of other things I have found to explain BOVs vs DVs

Originally Posted by Oyveychris

I second that! Leave the blowoff valves for the rice crowd. They don't help your car go any faster. You could always buy the Forge DV and carry a small tank of compressed air with you to vent off every time you shift "for that hi performance sound"!

Originally Posted by noR

BOV's screw up the programming. Take the HKS BOV valve back and get a Recirculating Valve. You bought the wrong part.



O(u)r motors don't USE BOV's. You can put one on there, but it will cause problems.

Originally Posted by Beetlecup

Why is no one writing back. Do people with nice cars want to put bov's on their cars...most no. IMO

The blowoff valve has no performance enhancement except your own self amusement.

You can get a check engine light from removing the dv.

The diverter valve puts the air that was going to go into the turbo, in between shifts back into the airbox.

The blowoff valve releases it into the general area engine bay with noise. Cheaper turbo kits are know for having bov.

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

BOV's suck and sound stupid. Why waste the money?

And the best one being

Originally Posted by BoostedOne

IF you have a sytem that is blow off friendly, you are better off to use one.
The big drawback to diverter equipped cars is they(obviously) dump pressurized air back into the compressor inlet. The air coming out of the turbo is SIGNIFICANTLY hotter than the air entering the turbo. The temperature of the air exiting the turbo is based on two things. One is how much of a temp rise compressing the air to X boost pressure will create. The other factor is simply ambient air temp.
So, if running whatever boost pressure in your system creates a temperature rise of 125 degrees, and the air entering the turbo is 80 degrees, the air coming out of the turbo will be 205 degrees.
What happens when the diverter opens? You blow 200 degree air into the inlet of the turbo. If you are shifting this ends up increasing the outlet temp of the air for the next gear for a second.
This can be lessened on some cars by putting the diverter valve after the intercooler. Many cars do, but the layout of our cars does not allow it.

So in conclusion

Originally Posted by NYBugman

Diverter valves are a touchy subject sometimes. Some people say that they're not worth it and the OEM Bosch 710N part is fine, even under high boost conditions. Others say that it is worth it and you get better boost response and throttle response. I look at it as the 710N is plastic and is more prone to failure than an aftermarket valve. That being said, there is not too much difference in DV's. Buy the one that makes you happy or the one you get the best deal on.

I hope that this sums everything up for you.

[bgp]

Basically it prevents the compressor from going into surge.
When the throttle is closed rapidly (like when you are doing hard driving),your airlow to your turbo is quickly reduced,which will cause flow instability and PSI fluctuation.
Rapid cycling fluctations cause audible compressor surge,which will eventually lead to compressor thrust bearing failure.
BOVs use a combination of manifold pressure signal and wastegate spring force to detect when the throttle is closed.
When the throttle is closed rapidly,the BOV vents boost in the intake tract into the atmosphere to relieve pressure,eliminating compressor surge. That's the technical fuction of bovs. It's basically a type of surge valve. It just depends of how much mods you're doing on your engine as far as any high boost function. I run one on mine because I'm running higher than stock psi and I have a aftermarket adjustible wastegate actuator and still you cannot hear my bov when I'm doing mild driving as my engine is running into its vacuum range. You can only hear it when I'm into boost,the more boost the louder you can hear the bov vent. So I'm saying if you are running stock boost or a couple of psi past it,you won't really need one. If you're going to be running high boost and have a aftermarket internal or external wastegate or modified turbo,then you just might want to use one. The Forge splitter lets you use the stock surge diverter valve on 1.8Ts and just vent some boost into the atmosphere. The P-Flow helps with itake into the compressor,so that why it lets the Forge splitter valve sound louder.

[Yello_jellybean]

Look, I have no idea about this but, THIS I do know.
For one thing, before you go disagreeing with what you have been told, you really should check out some of the history from the guys that have told you that THIS was NOT a good idea.
The guys that I am speaking about don't get on this board to bully people.
Your fiance asked a question, they answered her. Granted, they could have been a little easier on her with the response, or explained the deal more in detail but, before you do it, I would SERIOUSLY do your research. These guys, will NOT intentionally steer you wrong. The NB, if you haven't already figured it out, is NOT and DOES not always react the same as every other car. (Especially, those that are American made. Nothing wrong with American cars, BUT it's just not the same. THAT should have been your first lesson.)

[bgp]

I do appreaciate any info that I get whether it's a yay or a nay<I think and hope that I'm open minded about that for it to show..

The advice that I've received from this thread has been great.
I also have advice from my friends back in my hoemtown that actually have VDub tuner shops as well (that where I'll do my installation)...The yays I have gotten have been from 3 turbo gas powered guys,2 that have U.S. spec engines..The nays have been from the diesel guys...I don't know what the compression ratios are on TDI mills,but usually diesels run a higher compression than gas engines and have a different ignition as well..Plus diesels are more responsive and sensitive to any tweaks if they are turbo engines..That may be the reason that you TDI guys get CELs with any type of bovs as well..

I'm reading what is posted on here,believe me. And I'll ask my VW tuners friends about this as well.

[noR]

But I'll tell you this. A VW measures the air and expects the air to be there.

If you vent to atmosphere; what do you think will happen? That's right, you'll go rich. VERY rich.

You can do it; but it won't work properly.

And it's really unnecessary. Get the girl a Short air intake, something w/a metal pipe. It'll make the DV much louder and you won't really want a BOV.

Short of it is: The motor was engineered to NOT vent to atmosphere. So if you think you're better than their engineers, by all means, take on the challenge.

Otherwise, just get what works for the system.


I hate diodes and MBC's. They're stupid and risky. And on a car such as VW; completely unnecessary. There's no sense in replacing a VERY GOOD monitoring/measuring system with a manually adjusted worm-gear.

Same basic reasoning applies.

All that in consideration; I run a GFB Hybrid DV/BOV. I just have it cranked WAY over towards DV, and it only vents when the tube's over 12psi. So most of my driving is not affected. Yeah, it probably pops rich when I shift gears at WOT. Then probably causes a second of chaos while the O2 sensor says "it's way rich" and dials back the fuel to accomodate just as I'm engaging the next gear.

It's your car, do what you want. But thoroughly think about the reasons and consequences.

[DZLBUG]

Originally Posted by bgp

The nays have been from the diesel guys...I don't know what the compression ratios are on TDI mills,but usually diesels run a higher compression than gas engines and have a different ignition as well..Plus diesels are more responsive and sensitive to any tweaks if they are turbo engines..That may be the reason that you TDI guys get CELs with any type of bovs as well..

You really don't have a clue about diesel engines do you? I wasn't talking about putting a BOV on a TDI, I was talking about putting one on a 1.8T. Putting a BOV on a TDI makes about as much sense as a screen door on a submarine. It won't cause a CEL because it will not do anything. Diesel engines do not have throttles. Compression ratios are way higher, about 18:1, and there is no ignition system. It is the compression that ignites the fuel. They also run much higher boost pressures than gassers, a stock TDI runs 13.5 psi although the stock turbo can push as much as 19 psi, and many modded TDI's are pushing 25-30 psi.

Listen to what noR said above, he knows his stuff. Like he said, if she wants that "sound," get her some sort of short (warm air) intake as it will really increase that sound. Just get a quality non-oiled filter for it so you get decent filtration that won't kill the MAF and sand the turbo.

[bgp]

(sigh) I know all about diesel engines...Thanks for your help anyway...


Look,my girl's not going to be stock...Besides getting either the Forge splitter or the APR R1 diverter valve,here's the plan:

Neuspeed turbo air inbtake pipe for the K03 turbo
Neuspeed lower intercooler pipe
Neuspeed P-Flow cai
APR AWP code ECU upgrade
Neuspeed 60mm downpipe
Neuspeed 60mm stainless steel cat-back exhaust


I got good advice from here,and I get good advice form my guy that has his own VW Tuner shop/website as well.
Trust me,anything I do is going to be well-thought out and well planned,and if I don't know stuff,I go to the pros to find out.

[turbos03]

here's some advice from someone that has a "modded and shop tuned" car...

that APR AWP code ECU upgrade isn't going to run to good on her car... she doesn't have an AWP code engine...

and you'd be better off getting a one piece TIP and not that Neuspeed lower turbo intake pipe...

the inter-cooler pipe is going to do nothing for her, even after the cars been chipped... stock pan-cake pipe flows plenty of air... as does the stock inter-cooler for the K03s... inter-cooler to TB hose is money better spent...

CAI does nothing, there's no cold air to be had from inside the engine bay... plus the turbo heats it all back up again... stock air box flows more than enough air...

the down pipe and the exhaust are good to go... but you can get better for less money.. what shop is doing the work..??

[bgp]

Originally Posted by noR

But I'll tell you this. A VW measures the air and expects the air to be there.

If you vent to atmosphere; what do you think will happen? That's right, you'll go rich. VERY rich.

You can do it; but it won't work properly.

And it's really unnecessary. Get the girl a Short air intake, something w/a metal pipe. It'll make the DV much louder and you won't really want a BOV.

Short of it is: The motor was engineered to NOT vent to atmosphere. So if you think you're better than their engineers, by all means, take on the challenge.

Otherwise, just get what works for the system.


I hate diodes and MBC's. They're stupid and risky. And on a car such as VW; completely unnecessary. There's no sense in replacing a VERY GOOD monitoring/measuring system with a manually adjusted worm-gear.

Same basic reasoning applies.

All that in consideration; I run a GFB Hybrid DV/BOV. I just have it cranked WAY over towards DV, and it only vents when the tube's over 12psi. So most of my driving is not affected. Yeah, it probably pops rich when I shift gears at WOT. Then probably causes a second of chaos while the O2 sensor says "it's way rich" and dials back the fuel to accomodate just as I'm engaging the next gear.

It's your car, do what you want. But thoroughly think about the reasons and consequences.

I'm not doing a total vent to air bov on her car,I wanted to do either the Forge splitter at 50/50,or the APR R1 diverter valve..She definitely doesn't need a MBC with an wideband gauge,the ecu upgrade that I'm planning will be all the boost/performance she ever needs.

Hmmmmm,do anyone make an aftermarket wastegate,or some trick where you can adjust your wastegate??

[DZLBUG]

Originally Posted by bgp

The nays have been from the diesel guys...I don't know what the compression ratios are on TDI mills,but usually diesels run a higher compression than gas engines and have a different ignition as well..Plus diesels are more responsive and sensitive to any tweaks if they are turbo engines..That may be the reason that you TDI guys get CELs with any type of bovs as well..

Originally Posted by bgp

(sigh) I know all about diesel engines...Thanks for your help anyway...

Based on your statements above, there is no way that you "know all about diesel engines." Different ignition??? I still can't stop laughing about that little gem. I suppose you think a BOV would be a good addition to a diesel engine?