Here we Go again, No headlights, foglights, or air blowing

[slvrbtlboi]

So just went out to run to the store and the headlights won't come on, no drl or regular headlights, also no fog lights, and turning the fan button on the dash does nothing. I am really getting fed up with this car. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I dreamed of owning one of these cars since they came out, now I realize that wasn't a dream, it was a prelude to a nightmare.

[D2Beetle]

Off the top of my head, one of or any combination, ignition switch, CCM, fuses, relays. I know that I have read threads where the wires in the steering column chafe and the exposed wires short/ground things out.

[slvrbtlboi]

I checked every fuse in the car last night, not just the ones label on the card for lights and a/c. I checked them all. It's not showing any lights on the dash, but would it still show a code if I had it scanned? I cant afford to just throw money at it anymore. I lost my job in March to the wonderful world of offshore work and am on unemployment trying to get an education.

[slvrbtlboi]

Ok, Just read a bunch on the forums and went and checked a few more things. No wipers, glovebox light or turn signals. But hazard lights work. Think this means it's the ignition switch. If I replace the ignition switch does that mean I have to get new keys and all that money?

[D2Beetle]

Actually I'm not certain, but I doubt it. If you did have to purchase new keys or reprogram existing keys, I'm sure there would be a significant amount of hoopla about it.

Here is a thread with a similar problem. No mention of any issues related to the keys.

[terror_storm]

Originally Posted by slvrbtlboi

If I replace the ignition switch does that mean I have to get new keys and all that money?

If the culprit is just the electrical portion of the ignition switch, then no, you don't have to replace any keys; the electrical part is separate. And in all of 30 seconds searching online I found a replacement for as little as $12... GL

[slvrbtlboi]

Just ordered ignition switch from Autozone, total $71.01, will have it by 3pm tomorrow. Also found a step by step DIY. Thinking this may be linked with the fuse box melting on top of the battery. Just a theory, though, no evidence to back it up. gonna change that melty fuse again after I change the ignition switch to test my theory. And thanks again guys for all your help, this site and all the great, helpful people on here have saved me a small fortune in diagnostic costs.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by slvrbtlboi

Just ordered ignition switch from Autozone, total $71.01, will have it by 3pm tomorrow. Also found a step by step DIY. Thinking this may be linked with the fuse box melting on top of the battery. Just a theory, though, no evidence to back it up. gonna change that melty fuse again after I change the ignition switch to test my theory. And thanks again guys for all your help, this site and all the great, helpful people on here have saved me a small fortune in diagnostic costs.

The melted fuse block over the battery is typically related to the A/C; I do not think anyone can say for certain what causes it. Should you discover something please let us know.

[slvrbtlboi]

Ok, the ignition switch fixed it, got it at 1:30 today, started at 2:40, stopped once to cool off because of heat, finished at 3:30, probably 30 mins total to install. This fixed all the issues. I changed that fuse on the battery block and will let you guys know if it melts again or not. Just a theory, but testing it anyway.

[slvrbtlboi]

Ok, so same crap happened again friday around lunchtime, took it apart again and the #2 and #3 slots in the plug that clips onto the ignition switch were burnt up. probably already were and I didn't notice it when I changed it last time. Went to the Stealership in winston salem, Flow VW. The parts guy and the parts manager were both ***holes, major, but after teaching them their d*mn job, I got the part I need, housing and one wire $23. Removing the little clips on the end of the wires from the plastic housing of the plug was a pain in the ***. After much work involving a hacksaw blade, several tiny screwdrivers and a pair of wire cutters I finally got all the clips out (note: anyone attempting this oneself, do what I did and label the wires as you remove them. The housing has each slot numbered so it's a piece of cake to put it back together if you number them, couldn't imagine where to even begin looking to find the sequence if I hadn't number them.) But finally after 3 hrs, Boobla is back up and running. Also, I've been having intermittent loss of power since I bought this car, where it just randomly feels like it just loses it's get up and go. Never been able to sort that out. Seems like this might have fixed that as Boobla is running like a champ now. I put 125 miles on her today she was so much fun to drive!!! Reminded me why I loved her to begin with. This may sound crazy, but it seems like my air is blowing better and colder than ever, plus the dimming headlights seems to be fixed too.

[D2Beetle]

Glad to see that Boobla is up and running.

Regarding the power loss issue; check your vacuum hoses, make sure your CAP, MAF and throttle body sensors are clean. When was the last time you put plugs in it?

[slvrbtlboi]

ok, I changed the plugs a few months ago, when I took it in for the coil recall that they said I wasn't covered under. Anyway, I won't get started on that tirade. I checked all the vacuum hoses when I first notice the problem a couple years ago when I had the work done on the Secondary Air injection Pump. I posted a thread about that and could give you the exact date if I wasn't too lazy to look up that thread, LOL. I've cleaned the MAF a few times, been over 6 months since last time, but it never made a difference. I wouldn't know where the CAP and throttle body sensors are, unfortunately I don't have a book and i'm not in the position to be able to afford to buy one. If you have a picture where you can point out where they are I have no problem getting in there and cleaning them. When I first bought the car, I took it to the stealership over the SAI pump. They quoted $2300 in work they felt was necessary. That included a new SAI pump, I of course laughed and left. The other two items were a torn diverter valve and a "throttle body alignment" which they were charging $815 for. I replaced the torn diverter valve myself for $97 and got on here to find that a "throttle body alignment" was a mythological creature. They also suggested that I change ALL the belts and hoses but that was optional. My cousin (shadetree mechanic) and I inspected the belts and hoses when I got home and found no reason to replace anything.

[slvrbtlboi]

Oh yeah guys, remember the melting fuse on the battery fuse box. I have replace that fuse box and still had the first fuse melting, posted a few pictures in another link. Well, I felt like the fact that the wire that burned up the ignition switch was the wire that ran the a/c fan (among other things) and the fuse that was melting was the fuse to the "cooling fan" was too big a coincidence not to be related, so to test this theory after replacing the ignition switch and the ignition switch plug and burned wires, I again changed this continually melting fuse. I believe my theory is confirmed, the new fuse has been in for 4 days and there has been no damage or melting of the new fuse. So, if any of you guys are having the burnt fusebox on the battery issue, get that steering column apart and check the ignition switch, plug wiring and plug for any signs of frying and let us know.

[D2Beetle]

Charged Air Pressure (CAP) Sensor

Throttle Body Sensor Yellow oval #1

[tgobble]

I too had the issue you describe with the fuse to the a/c fan located in the fuse box on top of the battery. There were not any of the other issues you have described to go along with it. There were 2 occasions a month or two apart 3 yrs ago that the center fuse that controls the a/c fan shorted out and burned. The heat was intense enough that it melted the plastic surrounding the area the fuse plugs into and the second time actually melted the plastic on the fuse to the plastic of the fuse box. I had to pry it off. I simply replaced the fuse both times it happened and was going to take it in for further assessment if it happened a third time. It never did. That's been three years. I still check it periodically but no more signs of trouble! I wonder how many others may have had this happen and what might cause it. Could it cause a fire?

[slvrbtlboi]

Just had to replace my #2 ignition coil, first one I've ever done and getting more and more comfortable workin on Boobla! Another melted fuse block on top of battery, obviously not repaired by ignition switch replacement. Have it bypassed directly to the battery again until I can get another box, new heavier altenator wire, and new heavier ground wire. Any suggestions for a grade of wire, or a swap out that will work would be greatly appreciated!!!

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Originally Posted by slvrbtlboi

Another melted fuse block on top of battery, obviously not repaired by ignition switch replacement. Have it bypassed directly to the battery again until I can get another box, new heavier altenator wire, and new heavier ground wire. Any suggestions for a grade of wire, or a swap out that will work would be greatly appreciated!!!

Fuse Box look something like this?


Absolutely, but you need to find the isue that is causing the meltdown. Have this going on with another Orger right now. You're going to want to be using #4 wire and have the cables made up, but it's all covered in the thread, here -
MORAV needs some help helping someone else on the Org! - Battery Fuse Box Issue

MORAV