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| 1.8 Liter Turbo Discussion area for the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine. |
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It is an automatic with 50,000 miles.
It is my wife's car and she just had it happen again. It is random with over a period of months between episodes. She was driving - cruising on a straight boulevard not accelerating, and the car died. She says the battery light came on - no engine light. After coasting to the side of the road, she waits less than a minute and the car cranks just a little longer than usual (maybe two to three seconds longer) and starts. She got home and I got my code reader to find no stored or pending codes. Once while I was driving it (I rarely do), I thought that I was getting no throttle response for a split second when taking and turn and then accelerating. That is the only thing I can say that I have experienced in teh car within the last 6 months that made me think something might be amiss. It has been driving fine all the rest of the time. No recent maintenance done. Ideas? Thanks, Mike |
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Get your alternator checked.
__________________
The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI ![]() The money saver:2001 Jetta TDI GL. 114k. Dead auto, swapped to 3 pedals. Hubby's DD and our trip car |
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I have done all of the above, and more. I have decided to try the oil dipstick extension tube replacement. If that does not work, I give up and will trade it when I can.
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This is the exact same symptom that our 2001 GLX had when the fuel pump was going out. The battery light comes on because the engine is not running. You may find that the problem only happens when the fuel tank is low - gasoline is not covering the pump so it heats up and then trips the relay. After it sits for a few minutes and cools down it works. Eventually the time between episodes will shorten until the pump fails completely. Ours never threw any codes. Replacing the pump (which includes the fuel gauge sending unit) is not that difficult - access is under the back seat. Be sure and replace the relay at the same time as the higher current draw of a failing pump can damage it. If you are in the habit of driving with a low fuel level in the tank, it can hasten the fuel pump failure. Some people recommend never letting the tank get below 1/4 full.
I bought our replacement from a parts place near us that has OEM parts for a lot cheaper than the dealer called ETY Parts. Here is their website with the pumps for your car (unless it is a Turbo S): Electric Fuel Pump parts for 2005 Volkswagen - Ety Parts Good Luck, b Last edited by beetlejuice; 08-10-2011 at 10:05 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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