Brakes wont stiffen up...

[vdub00]

So i changed my front brakes about 8-12 months ago, didn't think about changing the rears (used to have drum brakes onevery other car) and the pads recently started the scrapping noise to let me know the pad is low. so i figure no big deal, bought some ceramic pads an brought it to my dads to get to work on it. my caliper piston was tough to move and I eventually had to let the line bleed to make it move. and i had to do this for the other rear pads as well. now after the first set was done i had my brother push the pedal down to make sure everything was working well. i could hear what sounded like a hydaulic or something and the pedal wouldn't go stiff and will go all the way to the floor but not on its own, and i can actually stop the car but i have to go to the floor to get it to stop my car(unless i pump the brakes the entire time i am trying to stop, but this doesn't work that well either).

so my question is, does this sound like a brake master cylinder issue? with the noise, and the fact that not that much brake fluid came out, is it possible that air got in there and is making that moise? or is that noise a key symptom of a master cyslinder needing replaced?

any help would be very appreciated.

[vdub00]

also i have not noticed an ABS light or any other lights. No liquids anywhere under my car even after several sets of 10 pumps. everything is tight and nothing is seizing up.

Please let me know if you have any clue what is going on.

Thanks again.

[turboturbo]

You got air in when you cracked the bleeder. You need to bleed the lines. Next time, crank the piston back in without opening the lines. It will be easier when you take the top off the master cylinder reservoir.

[FootScoot]

The rear caliper pistons also need to be rotated as they are pushed back. ECS sells the tool for this purpose, and I'm sure there are others that do as well.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by FootScoot

The rear caliper pistons also need to be rotated as they are pushed back. ECS sells the tool for this purpose, and I'm sure there are others that do as well.

If you did not use the "special tool" to rotate and press the caliper back in, you have might have damaged the rear caliper. The repair manual specifically states not to push in rear calipers or they will be damaged.

Hopefully it is air in the lines; if not you need rear calipers.

[vdub00]

i actually got it to the firestone and they bled the lines and flushed it, gave me my brakes back, things seem fine now... with the brakes anyway.

[vdub00]

Thank you all for you information. I appreciate the input and the advice.