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| 1.8 Liter Turbo Discussion area for the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine. |
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Chip it
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The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI ![]() The money saver:2001 Jetta TDI GL. 114k. Dead auto, swapped to 3 pedals. Hubby's DD and our trip car |
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Hm... for your best PERFORMANCE upgrade... you'd definitely want to chip the engine.
A stock 1.8T that has 150hp and about 160 lbs of torque, if you go with a Stage 1+ Unitronic ECU upgrage, will cost $550 and take you to approx 201hp and 220 lbs of torque. Now, one of the requirements for Stage 1+ is a better Diverter Valve, the stock DV in the Beetle just doesn't hold up. It fails randomly as it is, not to mention if you put that much pressure on it. So in order to do a Stage 1+, you are *required* to have a better Diverter Valve. I had purchased the APR R1 sport diverter valve, but then sold my Beetle, so I have a brand new R1 DV sitting here for sale. Another thing you might consider, is a better (this is arguable between many people) intake. Some say that the stock airbox gives you all the air that you could ever use. Some say that when you chip your system, you'll get a better performance boost if you upgrade the intake. Along with the R1 diverter valve, I had also purchased a Nuespeed P-Flo intake for the 1.8T. That is also up for sale. Info on the Unitronic upgrade : Performance Software - 2000-2001 Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T 150HP Now, if you have the 2002 1.8T Turbo S, that has 180hp and a 6 speed manual, that's the same price to do Stage 1+, but it would take you to 220hp and 260 lb of torque. (info on the 180hp version here : Performance Software - 2002-2005 Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T 180HP Info on the DV and the Intake that I have for sale.. HERE... Lots of New Parts for sale! APR, Neuspeed, K&N, R-Line, VDO, Glowshift! Hope that helps ![]() Now, if you don't want to do any performance mods, and just do appearance mods instead, then you are in a completely different area. We're talking, lowering springs, coilovers, window tint, a spoiler, better (bigger & more lightweight) wheels, Joey-mods on the headlights, do custom upholstery, custom vinyl or custom paint, give your car a THEME! Lots of options ![]()
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Bumbls : 2011 Ford Transit Connect XLT
Sting : 2002 1.8T Beetle Color Concept My FLICKR: See My High-Res Photos Here Cameras I Use: Canon Eos 40D |
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hmmmmm, as of right now i have an aem dry flow cone attached to my stock air hose because it is unoiled and (this is what i heard from a friend) it is safer than an oiled air filter. how are APR tunes because i also heard that they are having a sale $500. not sure if thats for just the 91 octane program or stock/91/93/100 octane programs (all 4 for $500?). either way i will eventually get a tune which means i will need a diverter sooner or later
im looking to do both performance and appearance mods. not sure if lowering springs, coil overs, and wheel spacers will effect my handling negatively though. im interested in the diverter thoughLast edited by 1FSTBUG; 10-16-2011 at 03:34 AM.. |
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the shop that i called said nobody does revo tunes around where i am, but apr is like revos daughter company or something. owned by the same people and he said they are the same tunes. oh i almost forgot, i definitely need a clutch soon and tires (both winter and summer).
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Tom, what settings do you recommend on your REVO for 93 octane?
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"No trees were killed in the sending of this message but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced." Kenny's Silver '04 NB Convertible GLS 1.8 Turbo http://newbeetle.org/forums/photos-new-beetles/25692-kennys-silver-04-nb-convertible-gls-1-8-turbo.html |
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Quote:
APR can direct tune most VW engines but not the APH engine. Depending on which engine you have APR can program different programs to your ECU and they do have sales several times a year. When they do have a Sale they usually let you have a several programs like 91 octane/93 Octane/100 Octane/stock/ etc for free. The problem is that with some cars it just doesn't work. My brother took advantage of one of those sales and had his 08 Passat with 2.0T tuned, however the multitune does not work on his car. They told him as soon as APR comes out with a multitune program for his particular car they will add it to his ECU for free. Well, he has been waiting 2 years now and so far they still haven't figured out how to multitune his Passat. But the shop was nice enough to give him a couple of free oil changes in lieu of not getting what he paid for. That said, his Stage 1 93 Octane APR program is amazing. I raced him once in my 04 TT 225 with stage 2 Revo tune and we were side by side until I hit 3rd gear and pulled ahead of him. If he didn't have an automatic transmission I bet he could've beaten me easily. Those 2 liter Turbo motors are amazing and have great potential. But so does the 1.8. I went with REVO since I had good experience with them in the past and already had a SPS3 switch which I enjoy tinkering with on fine tuning the REVO tune. But to be honest the tune is Excellent right out of the box. The standard 93 Octane setting is amazing and you will feel the difference in performance like no other mod you perform on the car. APR or REVO both of them are excellent and experienced System Tuners. You can't go wrong with either of them. Just make sure you don't pay for something you can't have even if they advertise it. Certain ECU's or engine codes don't have the ability to have the APR multitune installed. So ask questions and make sure that it will work on your car before paying for something you will never be able to use. Also REVO lowered their prices for all 1.8 tunes by 100 dollars. It used to be 499 for their stage 1 tunes and now it is 399 and sometimes they even have sales on those numbers. |
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Depends on your ECU/engine code. Usually, the additional programs cost extra. Quite a bit extra with APR. But they do have sales a few times a year and they give you a multitune for the regular price of a stage 1 tune or give you 100 dollars off the stage 1 tune. That said, depending on your ECU/engine code and model year you may not be able to use the Multitune by APR. You can always ask regarding your model years limitations. But to be honest once you have the Stage 1 set you probably will very seldomly change it. The only time I switch mine is if I take it to get it serviced and I put it in minimum valet mode so those idiots can't Hot Rod my ride.
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Quote:
Thanks. |
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Quote:
2001+ Beetle: AWV 2002 Beetle Turbo S: AWP You have a AWV engine code with larger Eprom ECU then the 1999 and 2000 APH engines. So an APR direct tune will work on your car. |
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I have to double check my SPS 3 switch but I set my Boost at maximum or Agressive Boost per the SPS 3 switch and the Timing at 5 or one below the maximum recommended for the 93 Octane gasoline. I didn't really mess with air/fuel mixture since I don't think our cars can be adjusted for it.
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now whats the difference if i run the stage 1 apr on minimum ovtane and the next step up or whatever its supposed to be run on lol (sorry, i dont know the octane numbers at the gas station, havent had my license for a lil while X]
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If you are chipped you should run the highest Octane available in your state. Not sure what that is in New Hampshire where you are at. Just look the next time you go to your gas station and look at the pumps. The Premium gas should have a rating of 91/92 or 93 Octane. Some states like Michigan change to an Oxynated gas over the Winter months which is only 91 Octane but do have 93 in the summer. Once chipped you should run a minimum of 91 Octane. If your tune is for 93 Octane than you should run 93 Octane gas. The knock sensor will usually retard your timing if it starts to ping, however I would not risk running lower octane gas in your engine especially when it has been tuned.
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unless you can afford $4500 for a new engine I would replace the timing belt ASAP. ALL VW are very bad about timing belts. replace it now because if it breaks you will have all you can handle just getting it running again. I find it hard to believe that no one has suggested this already.
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The belt at 70k is like a ticking time bomb IMHO. They will even look new when they break. Not trying to scare you but the 1.8t is expensive to fix when the belt breaks. I would worry more about youre overheating issue on the other thread you posted. It is not normal for the hood to get that hot. Unless you really drive it hard or have jacked with the turbo to get more boost it should not get that hot.
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The timing belt is a good idea. My car had it done at 79k miles and it's due once again. Most of the time it isn't really the timing belt failing but one or more of the associated parts like the tensioner freezing up and putting stress on the timing belt and therefore destroying it. Or the waterpump failing and again putting stress on the timing belt and eventually killing it. So paying 450 bucks now rather than 4000+ later is probably a very good suggestion. I was thinking of doing the timing belt myself but it's a lot of work and a big mess and with my luck I will break more than I am fixing. So I will let the guys at EPWerks handle the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, cams seals, thermostat, Accessory belt, etc. For the New Beetle it is far less than it was for my Audi TT. They only charge a total of $450 bucks including parts and labor. You can't beat that.
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