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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:06 AM
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Check out Kuplaime's thread. There's more DIY pics to inspire you. Your color scheme sounds pretty sweet- can't wait to see your end results.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:17 PM
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got my waterpump in today also orderd a splitter hybrid bov/dv
for the bug soon need to get a set of nice injectors will have pics of completed head soon.

im also having trouble removing the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer in place on the crank my impact wrench cant seem to get it loose any ideas?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLU1.8T View Post
got my waterpump in today also orderd a splitter hybrid bov/dv
for the bug soon need to get a set of nice injectors will have pics of completed head soon.

im also having trouble removing the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer in place on the crank my impact wrench cant seem to get it loose any ideas?
I have the Forge Spillter valve and I like it a lot. It is set too stiff from the factory so turn it all the way counter clockwise and then turn it about 8 clicks clockwise to start out. Even with your set up I don't think you need it any tighter than 8 to 9 clicks.

As far as the Harmonic balancer goes. I would spray the bolt with some Seafoam Deep Creap Spray and let it soak in for a couple of minutes and than give it a try.

Good Luck!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 05:09 PM
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Not sure how accessible that Harmonic balancer is but you might just try a socket wrench and a hammer to shock it loose.
But I figure the impact wrench would be more powerful than a socket and a hammer but you never know. Do you have a puller once the bolt comes off?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLU1.8T View Post
i have a 1.8t that i rebuilt with new piston rings and rod bearing i was wondering what type of engine assembly lube would you guys prefer or can i just use lucas petrolium oil on the rod bearings
I've used STP Oil Treatment in the past and had good results with the engines I've rebuilt before. It is fairly viscous (viscosity means resistance to flow) and stays put during assembly.

That being said, I wouldn't use on turbo bearings (high viscosity may play heck on high rpm bearings) or oil pump (too viscous to insure proper pump priming). The STP will flow easier once the engine warms and essentially mixes in with the oil (which should be changed after engine has ran for some time).

It's also cheap and easy to find! Just remember to lightly coat the bearings with it, not smother them.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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Got a pullie puller but not worried about getting the pullie off thats the least of my problems.. Need to remove the balancer to be able to time the engin. I can fit a socket on there but i cant get it off because the crank would keep moving i tryd to put the car in gear but nothing =/
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:34 PM
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don't remove that center bolt... it's a stretch bolt and will loosen by itself if you take torque off it. remove the 6 or 7mm hex bolts around it... the balancer will come right off, and the actual timing crank gear will stay put.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad View Post
don't remove that center bolt... it's a stretch bolt and will loosen by itself if you take torque off it. remove the 6 or 7mm hex bolts around it... the balancer will come right off, and the actual timing crank gear will stay put.
ty will try that tmrw
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 06:47 AM
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got bored and did some work to the bug.. its true that these cars dont come with oil pan gaskets. what would you guys prefer i use for it
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 03:13 PM
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Nice Work! If mine would look like that I would panic because I probably never would be able to put it back together

Use Victor Reinz Liquid Oil Pan gasket for the Oil pan.

D176404A2, Gasket Sealant - Oil Pan, secarpart.com

VW Oil Pan Sealing Compound Liquid Sealant - gasket on eBay!
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2011, 05:08 PM
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Nice pics!
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 04:14 PM
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i got this 60hp wet kit for 325$ comes with auto bottle openee, bottle heater, nhra blow off purge kit with a full 10lb bottle. this kit usually gos for atleast 1,000$
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 05:30 PM
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Dude, did you hone those cylinders with the pistons installed?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:14 AM
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NOO! lool i got more common scence then that. i replaced the piston rods with eagle 4340 h beam rods with new rod bearings and new piston rings
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2012, 02:04 PM
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heads are almost done
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2012, 08:13 PM
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hey guys iv been putting in a little work on my beetle and im reddy to put the head back on i was wondering if there is anyone that can get me the timing marks for the crank and the head, iv tryd looking online but i couldnt find anything thank you. its a 00 vw 1.8t i think its aph
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2012, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLU1.8T View Post
hey guys iv been putting in a little work on my beetle and im reddy to put the head back on i was wondering if there is anyone that can get me the timing marks for the crank and the head, iv tryd looking online but i couldnt find anything thank you. its a 00 vw 1.8t i think its aph
Here is a Great Timing Belt DIY

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2012, 10:02 PM
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2012, 01:42 PM
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i see where his camshaft lines up on the valve cover but i didnt see anywhere where the crank lines up, i pulled the little plug on the transmission so i can see the marks for the crank but i cannot see any special marks on the flywheele
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2012, 04:31 PM
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Here are the trans marks for timing
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