Timing belt/water pump

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by esse10

I'll do the best I can on the pictures I think i'll be too busy fighting the motor mount..LOL @indytom I don't think we need a hoist either, just use two jacks and a backup stand underneath just in case it happens to fall of the jack.
" LETZ DO DIZ " LOL

Hey, I have an idea. I come over and do the pics while you do the work When you are done with mine we can start on yours

[esse10]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Hey, I have an idea. I come over and do the pics while you do the work When you are done with mine we can start on yours

That's funny indytom, I think i could only handle one timing belt job per weekend..LOL

[Moha]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Is the engine hoist really necessary?

I found it necessary, it took me a two weekends to complete mine (a lot of going back and forth to sears for tools etc, and exhaustion). Knowing that the engine was supported by both a floor jack and a hoist gave me peace. It also made it easier when bolting the engine back down.

[turboturbo]

You don't need an engine hoist. Support the car with jackstands on the jacking points behind the wheels, and just use a floor jack to raise/lower the engine when needed for access to the mount, crank, etc.

[esse10]

Originally Posted by turboturbo

You don't need an engine hoist. Support the car with jackstands on the jacking points behind the wheels, and just use a floor jack to raise/lower the engine when needed for access to the mount, crank, etc.

Correct turboturbo, I just used a 4x4 piece of wood from home depot and also place a big chunk of wood next to the jack just in case it did slipt off as my backup plan. Hope this helps the next person doing their Timing belt/water pump. I finished mine at noon today, took me 14 hours casue it was my frist time and also wasted an hour going to Home depot and then cutting the wood to perfection. Here is a cool picture of my setup.
I have more pictures if anybody wants to see.
thanks fellow newbeetle members

julian Rosenberg. TX.

[IndyTom]

Congrats Esse10

Very nicely done! I like your custom craddle for the oil pan.
Was it easier or harder than you thought? I haven't tackled mine yet and probably wont since it is pretty cold here in the winter time. (Yesterday we had 5 below windchill) So I will have to wait until the weather gets a little warmer like sometime in April. I don't want to venture out to T.O.D. with over 80k on the present Timing belt.

GREAT WORK. Give me your insights and any snags that you may have run into.

[esse10]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Congrats Esse10

Very nicely done! I like your custom craddle for the oil pan.
Was it easier or harder than you thought? I haven't tackled mine yet and probably wont since it is pretty cold here in the winter time. (Yesterday we had 5 below windchill) So I will have to wait until the weather gets a little warmer like sometime in April. I don't want to venture out to T.O.D. with over 80k on the present Timing belt.

GREAT WORK. Give me your insights and any snags that you may have run into.

THANKS and thank you for your help and wealth of info you provided it helped me out. The repair was just what I expected and you feel a great releave after you install the new timing belt on, it seems like the turning point back and it's all down hill from there. There is one bolt on the engine mount bracket that's a booger to get out ( the top left) and only cause of the A/C lines blocking the way to properly get in there and i was not about to discharge any A/C lines. I raise the engine up enough to get a deep socket in there. My engine
mount bracket came out through the top on mine after I removed the tensioner. It also helps if you releave the pressure of the gas lines in order to move them out of the way easier and i only got a few drops of gas come out when I disconnect them.
Also had to remove the Airbox completely out to get a good look at the peep hole of the transmission TDC mark. Everything else is just strait forward like the diys say. I also replaced the serpintene pulley and the serpintene belt cause they were old. here is a pix of the parts I replaced. let me know if you have more questions, shoot me an email if you like.

julian rosenberg TX.

[scarabY2k]

Awesome!
I pretty much went the same route with my engine cradle. Yours looks a LOT more sophisticated than mine did

Nice work

[IndyTom]

Hey Julian,

Is there anyway I could rent your customized engine craddle?

I would gladly pay for shipping and would send it right back at ya when I am finished with my timing belt.

[esse10]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Hey Julian,

Is there anyway I could rent your customized engine craddle?

I would gladly pay for shipping and would send it right back at ya when I am finished with my timing belt.

Nice compliment indytom, thanks. You have been very helpful to all of us new beetle member's forum here, you are welcome to barrow it.I never planned on sending it off to anyone. You might be better off making you one like this; get you a piece of 4x4 board($6.00) have them cut for you 8" inches, get a piece of wire and make a silhouette of the bottom of your oil pan and transfer that to the side of your 8" board on both sides with a black marker, cut it. your done. At first i was going to make it with a 2x4 board, but than went with a 4x4 for more stability and less chance of it slipping. I put a few elastic tape around for more support but I don't think it was necessary. Let me know if you still want it.

fyi; My timing belt/water pump and other parts that I replaced saturday had 97k miles since the last time they were replaced. They look like they could have still gone another 10k or so. One vw mechanic told me to use only german made parts in these cars. for INFO only-i used MJM autohous kit.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by esse10

Nice compliment indytom, thanks. You have been very helpful to all of us new beetle member's forum here, you are welcome to barrow it.I never planned on sending it off to anyone. You might be better off making you one like this; get you a piece of 4x4 board($6.00) have them cut for you 8" inches, get a piece of wire and make a silhouette of the bottom of your oil pan and transfer that to the side of your 8" board on both sides with a black marker, cut it. your done. At first i was going to make it with a 2x4 board, but than went with a 4x4 for more stability and less chance of it slipping. I put a few elastic tape around for more support but I don't think it was necessary. Let me know if you still want it.

fyi; My timing belt/water pump and other parts that I replaced saturday had 97k miles since the last time they were replaced. They look like they could have still gone another 10k or so. One vw mechanic told me to use only german made parts in these cars. for INFO only-i used MJM autohous kit.

Hey Thanks Julian. You are probably right and it would be much easier to make my own rather than sending a piece of wood through the mail I am still a couple of months away of doing the Timing Belt install. Hopefully it will go as smooth as yours did.
Hey, did you use any special tools except your custom made engine craddle?
I will check into the MJM kit and compare it to the Blauparts kit that I was eyeballing.

Have a great day!

[esse10]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

Hey Thanks Julian. You are probably right and it would be much easier to make my own rather than sending a piece of wood through the mail I am still a couple of months away of doing the Timing Belt install. Hopefully it will go as smooth as yours did.
Hey, did you use any special tools except your custom made engine craddle?
I will check into the MJM kit and compare it to the Blauparts kit that I was eyeballing.

Have a great day!

No special tools, but next time I'll use a small air or electric ratchet to get that booger bolt from the mount bracket out. Do buy a brand new allen secket #6 to remove the crank 4 allen screws, their on there pretty tight and you don't want to strip those, I clean the inside of the allen screws with a wire brush and constantly clean the tip of the allen tool before inserting in. I thougt about using BP blaster on them, but just took my time and made sure my angle's were right before applying pressure.At the front end let the battery do the work for you, I remove the CAM wheel plastic cover, crank the engine a few times while watching for the TDC mark on the cam wheel until it got real close to the mark on the valve cover, then just move it with a ratchet after that. On my installation part I put loctite medium strength(blue) on all my screws. The timing belt will go on using the old bicyle chain method, but I had to do it on the crank pulley cause that's where you are putting pressure and that's where you have a free hand to apply pressure in on the belt itself as you crank clockwise. Even though you only remove one tire do lift both sides of the car anyhow so the engine don't shift on you when you remove that one mount, makes it alot easier to align it back in. I hope your's go's smooth also and I'll be around if you have questions about it. Here is a picture of most of the tools I used, take your pick.........just joking indytom.

have a good one buddy.

[IndyTom]

LOL. I think you are missing a Sledghammer in that mix.