Red Coolant Flashing

[esse10]

Originally Posted by msimmons

The pump's axle still spins just as free as a new pump, it definitely didn't seize. The plastic impeller fractured radially around it's base. I'm guessing it probably cracked due to small amounts of vibration causing fatigue (micro-fractures) in the plastic, made worse with the repeated heating/cooling of general use over time.

As far as the belt goes, I suspect it has been loosing teeth for awhile. Approximately 1/3 of them are gone, not just at the spot around the crank pulley like I expected. I'll organize my pics and get them up, but here are a couple shots of my belt in the meantime.

Hope digplants get's the picture, from these pictures on what could happen to the CAR HAVE THOSE PARTS CHANGED ASAP OR PARK THE CAR!

[digplants]

So they replaced a fitting that had apparently ruptured and exploded coolant all over my engine, (i think it was near the radiator if not on it directly) and are currently replacing my water pump and timing belt. as you would have guessed it was the water pump that caused the initial failure. Thanks again for the support! and if you had any doubt in my capabilities as a car owner or what have you, please continue reading.

yeah i get it and somebodys here, just to clear up any confusion there. i was looking for potential problems related to my situation, not things i should do RIGHT NOW and how i may or may not be a bad owner. the facts are i did not previously know about the water pump issue in new bugs, and ive had my bug for less than a year. in that year, i have made as many improvements and done as much maintenance to the car that i could. im not a rich man, nor do i have lots of time, therefore i cannot just get things fixed, nor do them myself out of the blue. i also do not have much experience in car mechanics. i try, and i think thats enough for any average person like myself. Anyway thanks again for the support, i hope i never have to return to this section of newbeetle.org, but for good reasons.

also those tutorials looked like a lot of fun if i had the free time and tools.

[nitroman]

Originally Posted by digplants

So they replaced a fitting that had apparently ruptured and exploded coolant all over my engine, (i think it was near the radiator if not on it directly) and are currently replacing my water pump and timing belt. as you would have guessed it was the water pump that caused the initial failure. Thanks again for the support! and if you had any doubt in my capabilities as a car owner or what have you, please continue reading.

yeah i get it and somebodys here, just to clear up any confusion there. i was looking for potential problems related to my situation, not things i should do RIGHT NOW and how i may or may not be a bad owner. the facts are i did not previously know about the water pump issue in new bugs, and ive had my bug for less than a year. in that year, i have made as many improvements and done as much maintenance to the car that i could. im not a rich man, nor do i have lots of time, therefore i cannot just get things fixed, nor do them myself out of the blue. i also do not have much experience in car mechanics. i try, and i think thats enough for any average person like myself. Anyway thanks again for the support, i hope i never have to return to this section of newbeetle.org, but for good reasons.

also those tutorials looked like a lot of fun if i had the free time and tools.

Hi diggplants, I doubt anyone thinks you are a bad owner (if you were you wouldn't be in this forum in the first place ). They all just didn't want to see your timing belt snap and mess up the engine even more. I think a lot of us are the same as you - don't have much time or money, and in my case very little mechanical knowledge. But the ORG has very friendly members and for me, I'm just gaining more knowledge so that if/when I do take mine to the shop to get things done (since I'm a sucky mechanic), I know exactly what's being done, how it should be done, and approximate cost so I won't get ripped off.

Please post back here after you get your car back and let us know the results!

[Boost Master D]

Originally Posted by nitroman

Hi diggplants, I doubt anyone thinks you are a bad owner (if you were you wouldn't be in this forum in the first place ). They all just didn't want to see your timing belt snap and mess up the engine even more. I think a lot of us are the same as you - don't have much time or money, and in my case very little mechanical knowledge. But the ORG has very friendly members and for me, I'm just gaining more knowledge so that if/when I do take mine to the shop to get things done (since I'm a sucky mechanic), I know exactly what's being done, how it should be done, and approximate cost so I won't get ripped off.

Please post back here after you get your car back and let us know the results!

+1

couldn't agree more. Glad the car is getting fixed up. I just love seeing these little cars on the road everywhere I go.

[1.8Tblkbe3tle]

I am actually having the same problem, but seeing how I did my research for different problems as soon as the light came on I took it to the garage. They have had it a few days now only because in this area a lot of people have VW.

They insisted on saying it was the Thermostat, I let them change it anyways.I KNEW it had to be the waterpump/timing belt considering it had 88k and I doubt the older lady who had it before me done any regular maintance. I also changed new Sensors and everything (still had the black coolant sensor tisktisk) I figured may as well fix it all at once!

It just seems to be a common problem with these type of cars, but so worth it when fixed.

[msimmons]

Just following up on my initial posts. I did the top end and the little 1.8 and it runs great now. The rebuild cost me around $1800, and $550 of that was the head work.

Typical TB failure damage: bent both exhaust and one intake valve on each cylinder. Water pump was also shot (impeller broke and spun independently of the shaft.

I had the head re-surfaced (it was warped .003) and all the valves replaced and seats ground. I chose a machine shop that was known for super-high quality work. Paid a little more, but they did a fantastic job.

I also decided not to go into the bottom end. Mostly based on cost and time. Although all 4 pistons had kissed valves, they were not structurally damaged. Replacing bottom end parts and having the trans-axle serviced would more than doubled my rebuild costs.

I replaced all the lifters while I was there, and chose the ECS metal water pump and TB kit (which I'm really happy with). New head bolts and motor mount bolts, fuel lines, new vacuum, tubes, new Iridium tip plugs, and new OEM coil packs (the rubber boots of the originals had deteriorated beyond use). Also had to replace the orange dipstick tube which I broke while trying to remove and I replaced an upper waterline pipe I also broke (the plastics were ridiculously brittle). All parts except the ECS Kit are Audi/VW OEM.

I rounded it out with an ECS Stage 1 ECU burn for fun.

After carefully cleaning and reassembling everything the engine fired right off and once the lifters pumped up they were totally silent. Did a couple test drives and rechecked everything. The coolant lines purged themselves first try and the car runs awesome.

I HIGHLY recommend the ECS chip and 4 bar fuel pressure reg; it's another $500 but instantly bumps up the HP of the little 1.8T. I never did a dyno run to know what I had before/after, but I believe the advertised 30 HP gain (150 -> 180 for the APH block). It will chirp the Michelin Pilot Sports shifting between 1st and 2nd on 89 pump gas (~1000ft above sea level).

There are already a lot of 'how-tos' on this topic already, but I have TONS of pictures if any one is interested.

-Mark

[IndyTom]

ECS uses the APR tuning software. Did you have to send the ECM into them and they installed the chip and programmed it for you? I think 183 is conservative more than likely it is around 200 HP. The 150HP motors actually gain more from a Stage 1 tune than the 180HP motors.

REVO Stage 1 claims the following:
Stock HP Stock Kw Stock lbft Stock nm
1.8T 150 112 160 217

REVO HP REVO Kw REVO lbft REVO nm
200 149 235 319

So that is 50 more HP and more importantly 75lbs or more torque which is what you actually feel.

[msimmons]

I sent the ECU to ECS using the overnight UPS shipping label they provided. I dropped the package off at an OfficeMax (UPS shipping point) at about 2 pm local time (C.T. -San Antonio, TX) on a Tuesday and an ECS Tech called me the next morning at 9 am. He confirmed my order, then they reprogrammed my ECU and shipped it back. I had the reprogrammed ECU back in the car Thursday afternoon. I am very impressed with their service, and the result.

I choose the Stage 1 Performance Chip - 1 Program. Here's the specs; Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Engine > Chip Tuning > ES#921 Stage I Performance Chip - 1 Program - MK4STG1CHIP-1

I wish I could get my daughter to run 91 octane, but she's a High school student and the cheap 89 oct fuel is what she can afford. Still runs great.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by msimmons

I sent the ECU to ECS using the overnight UPS shipping label they provided. I dropped the package off at an OfficeMax (UPS shipping point) at about 2 pm local time (C.T. -San Antonio, TX) on a Tuesday and an ECS Tech called me the next morning at 9 am. He confirmed my order, then they reprogrammed my ECU and shipped it back. I had the reprogrammed ECU back in the car Thursday afternoon. I am very impressed with their service, and the result.

I choose the Stage 1 Performance Chip - 1 Program. Here's the specs; Volkswagen New Beetle 1.8T > Engine > Chip Tuning > ES#921 Stage I Performance Chip - 1 Program - MK4STG1CHIP-1

I wish I could get my daughter to run 91 octane, but she's a High school student and the cheap 89 oct fuel is what she can afford. Still runs great.

Excuse me but I hope she isn't running 89 Octane fuel in a "Tuned" Turbo Charged car? It requires a Minimum 91 Octane to start with. Sure it isn't an issue to run 89 once in a while on a "stock" vehicle since the knock sensors will hopefully signal the ECM to retard the timing prior to any major engine damage. But once the ECM has been tuned specifically for either 91 or 93 Octane gasoline this is no longer an option but a requirement. Putting in anything else not only defeats the purpose of the tune but also puts the engine at risk for some major engine damage. You should have at least gotten a 2 program tune so you could switch back to stock mode if 91 Octane fuel would not be available.
There is only about a 10-12cent difference between 89 and 91 Premium. I wouldn't take the chance for only about a Dollar and fifty cents per fill up.