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Low Oil Pressure light keeps going off.

30K views 28 replies 15 participants last post by  nyum96 
#1 ·
The low oil pressure light keeps going off , the car is full of ggod oil , I was wondering if this is a common problem or it is just normal wear and tear on the oil pump , the car has 125,000 mile on it.
 
#2 ·
With that few miles, the oil pump should still be fine.
Under what conditions will the low oil pressure light turn on? Going around corners? Going over dips or speed bumps? High speed driving or low speed creep and go?
A couple of things that might be going on would be the oil sender unit, or the oil pressure relief valve.
 
#8 ·
Is that their synthetic oil, or the non-synthetic? To prevent sludge build up, you should be using synthetic oil.
If you have been usning the non-synthetic oil, it is possible that you have some sludge build up that is causing some problems.
 
#11 ·
Replace your coolant temp sensor.
 
#15 ·
Sorry to bring back an old topic but my car is experiencing the same issues as this.

The "blue" engine temp light stays on constantly and when the temp light is blue, the oil pressure light will periodically start blinking and beeping an alarm.

The oil pressure alarm doesn't seem to happen when the temp light is not lit.


Do you think cleaning or replacing the coolant temp sensor will fix these symptoms?

If so... can someone tell me where the sensor is located? Thanks!
 
#17 ·
My daughter's beetle has a flickering oil light too.
It is also making rattling/knocking noises. So I took it to my very reliable VW Audi mechanic for his take on it.
He says the early 1.8T engines can have oil pick-up issues if there is sludgy oil and the knocking I have is oil starvation.
So I'm pulling the pan and replacing the oil pump. He also said that if it was starved long enough, the chain tensioner (plastic piece) located underneath the valve cover can melt/wear. So I ordered one of those too.

My mechanic said that Audi issued a recall or something and they would fix the problem if you had proof of your oil changes since new. He was not aware if VW had the same recall.

Doesn't apply to us 2nd or later owners either.

The car has 121000 miles too, so the pump may just be worn out. I should have changed it last year when I replaced the oil pan.
 
#18 ·
Just checking, but you are using Synthetic oil with the 1.8T engine correct? I had this happen to me last week. I checked my oil and it was low and in need of change. I changed it, and not a problem with it since!

Could it be that you are in need of an oil change? 1.8T REAAAAAAALY should only use Synthetic Oil!
 
#19 ·
I always use synthetic lubricants.
I just changed the oil pump and strainer, but the tensioner did not have any wear so I left it alone. Also, the tensioner is located just above the pump in the engine, not under the valve cover like I mentioned above. Sorry.
Anyhow, the engine still has rattling/knocking noises at idle.
This goes away when it is above idle/normal driving.

Suggestions...
 
#20 ·
Rods a knockin'

The noise you hear is the rod bearings knocking and probably the main bearings being loose. Running any engine with low oil pressure for any given time, seconds to minutes significantly wears the bearings. You can probably replace the rod and main bearings with new standard ones and be alright since you have installed a new oil pump. Bearings are cheap compared to a new engine. I believe it may take a special tool to get the main and rod caps off. I have seen mentioned that it is the same as the head bolts but I think it varies on the year, thanks VW for being consistent and using common tools. It is called a polydrive and nothing else will work, not torx or allen head bits. Spend the money on a good tool. I got mine here I believe:

GermanAutoParts.com
 
#22 ·
I assume when going over the speed bumps you come to almost a stop then proceed?

Although you have lower mileage on the car, the 1.8t engines are known and prone to clogging the oil pick up. Knowing what I know now, I would order a new oil pick up and O-ring along with a new dipstick tube and pull the pan and replace the oil pick up. Removing the oil pan can be a simple DIY that would take about 2 hours. Actually a very easy and straight forward job with the exception of the 4 read oil pan bolts being slightly tricky.

Then I would replace the thermostat as you likely have the orignal thermostat and I would put money on the fact the engine is running cold. The only way you can confirm the coolant temp is with a scan tool that reads real time data.

I strongly believe that part of the problems with the oil pick up were due to chronically cold running engines along with the oil type used.

I would also recommend a larger oil filter as well if you plan on keeping your car in top shape.

If you have an Android devices a $5 App and a $15 interface will work or you can run a Windows laptop with a $30 generic OBD program.

You could also purchase a $15 interface and check the engine temp with a trial version of VCDS as well.
 
#23 ·
I have a 2001 bug and Im having similar issues. The car will idle all day with no issue but if you tach up much more than 2500-3000 rpms the low oil pressure light comes on. Doesn't matter if you do it while car is hot or cold. Does nto throw any engine codes and it doesn't make any knocking sound. Could it be sending unit, where is that located. Do you think it is safe to drive.
 
#28 ·
Unfortunately sounds like a clogged oil pick up.

I had the exact same problem, idle no problem, start to drive, could get 2 car lengths, sometimes 2 blocks, oil light and alarm. Let car come back to idle, problem would clear.

Buy a new oil pickup, pick up O-ring and dipstick tube, pull the oil pan, replace the pickup. About a 2-3 hour job, not hard, just the back 4 oil pan bolts are hard to reach and DO NOT DROP them into the bell housing.

Then once you get this problem sorted, 100% chance you will find out your thermostat is bad, this is the root cause of the oil pickup clogging up.

Read the links below in my signature.

You need a scan tool that reads real time data, engine temp should be 205F at idle.

Good luck.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Which engine do you have? I would get a oil pressure tester and test the pressure as soon as possible; the last thing, you want to do is damage your engine... because of the lack of proper oil pressure. We discuss what to do in the thread below; I would test things as soon as you can and don't drive the car until you do so (if possible). Anecdotal evidence; seems to get down to two typical issues (oil pressure or electrical issues): oil pickup screen/tube clogged, oil pump failing, oil pressure valve clogged/stuck and the sending unit/wiring problems or cooling temp sensor/wiring problems.

Intermittent Oil Pressure Light
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/60604-intermittent-oil-pressure-light.html
 
#26 · (Edited)
#29 ·
Drop the oil pan, replace the pick-up tube AND replace the plastic windage tray. I had a broken windage tray, which was floating in the pan and would block the pick-up tube.

Basically, light would flicker at a stop light, would go away under load.
 
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