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Old 09-29-2007, 07:35 PM
FarrisK's Avatar
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Car: 2004 Ford Focus ZX3
Default Snowscreen Cleaning

Hello all!

So this morning, I decided to try cleaning out my snowbox/screen/whatever you wanna call it, and oh man. What a PITA. In fact, it was so hard, I couldn't do it.

Does anyone have a how to specifically for the NB? The how-to on TDI Club works on Jettas and Golfs, but not for the New Beetles, apparently.

I got to the point where I needed to take out the tube, but I couldn't find the bolt holding the tube in place. It felt like it pivoted down below the battery, but the two nuts I undid under the fender liner didn't help.
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Old 09-30-2007, 09:53 PM
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Bumpitude.

Anyone??
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:13 PM
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Car: '01 Techno Blue TDI "Diesel Power"
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Ok, I looked copied this from tdiclub.com. Hope this helps. It is a PITA all the way though.

For all those who would like to do this read on...

OK, here it is instructions for removing the infamous snow screen on a
2000 NB TDI.

Time: Allow about 3 hours from start to finish.

Tools: Long Handled #1 Philips Screwdriver (may not need)
Channel Pliers
10mm Wrench
10mm socket with extension
Torx T-25 bit
Short screwdriver type holder for T-25
Regular length screwdriver holder for T-25
Tire Iron (17mm socket)
(Possibly) anti-theft adapter for wheel lug bolt

Procedure:
- Remove Left front wheel/tire (driver's side in USA). Use
Jack stand(s) and block rear wheels, etc. Take proper safety
precautions.

- Remove exposed wheel well skirt. Use regular length
screwdriver holder with T-25 driver for 13 screws, the 14th
and last T-25 screw will need the short handle as it is just
to the right of the suspension spring.

- Under the front bumper you will now see a "U" shaped
assembly. Bear with me as I describe this assembly and then
you will see how I call it a "U" shape. Assume you are
sitting facing the wheel well with the disc brake at about
stomach level. Now if you look directly up into the wheel
well at about the 11 or 12 o'clock position you will see a
black hard plastic pipe about 2.5 inches (64mm) in diameter
with a flared end to it. This is the end of one of the "U"
assembly's arms. It is the air intake before it enters the
snow screen box. Follow this tube down to find a box-like
black plastic assembly. This is the box that contains the
snow screen and is at the bottom of the "U". Note that on
its side is a spring loaded door that opens into the
box. The other arm of the "U" is just barely visable from
your vantage point, but this is the tube that will become
the input to the filter box in the engine compartment.

- Remove the 10mm nut holding the snow screen box brace to the
body. Now remove a 10mm hex head screw that holds the flared
air intake tube to the body. At this point the air intake
arm and the snow screen filter box may be wiggled loose from
the other arm of the "U" going up to the air filter box in
the engine compartment.

- At this point I went top-side into the engine compartment
and removed the air filter box, disconnecting the MAF sensor
plug, etc. BUT in hindsight I don't think that is really
neccesary.

- I was not able to get the flared tube and snow screen box
(they are clamped together with a short piece of rubber
tubing with two compressable tubing clamps - thus the
channel pliers in my tool list) out without removing a
fender support brace. If you can get at one of those tube
clamps you could separate the flared air intake tube from the
snow screen box, but I couldn't and had to remove this short
3 inch (76mm) brace - two T-25 screws.

- Now that the snow screen box is out and in your hands you
can look down into the box and see the screen. It looks like
fine nylon panty hose. You can now also see how when this
screen gets totally crudded up the spring loaded door in the
side of the box will open due to air pressure and totally
by-pass this snow screen. What a .... design.

- By carefully prying the top of the snow screen box off its
base the snow screen itself may be lifted out and cleaned or
thrown away (I chose the latter). In 1500 miles of spring
driving my screen was 33% clogged with dust and weed fuzz
that my K&N filter could easily have trapped if it actually
made it all the way up there.

That's it. Assemble in reverse order. Remember this description applies
to a 2000 New Beetle TDI.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:15 PM
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Here's how someone else did it. I wasn't sure the lik would work right...so I'm just pasting the text.

1. I didn't jack up the car, just turned wheels to left.
2. I removed enough fender liner screws to peel it back halfway.
3. I took off the brace (T30 screws I think), brought the assembly into position where I could get some channel locks/vise grips on the clamps to take it apart.
4. Removing the turn signal, as Mickey has stated, definately helps and it is easy. Pry off the tiny tab on the lower right hand corner and remove the Phillips head screw.
5. I chose to clean the screen. I have about 13,000 miles on the car and it didn't seem that wickedly blocked. I used a vacuum and backflushed with water and vacuumed again.
6. Reassembly was harder, especially the clamps and alignment. I used a vise grips and kept the clamp tangs down for future access. This part would go faster if the wheel had been off.

I restored the system to its original configuration for several reasons:
1. The intake is about a foot higher in a more protected place to help avoid ingestion of material/liquids.
2. I think every 20,000 miles might be okay for me. That's not too bad.
3. I'd like to do a little more research and hear from others' experiences.

The intake path is truly tortuous. Removing the lower box and snorkel is tempting. Also ripping out the screen, if it's not needed, is inviting, as Jack did. (I didn't see a way to non-destructively take apart the box.) I would like to find out the thinking behind the vw design first.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:44 PM
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Thank you so much!

I was looking forever trying to find this, but all I could find was the one that was done on the Golf.
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:09 PM
sourmash's Avatar
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You're welcome.

I remember having to take the fender bracket off and then pulling the snorkle apart. Then getting underneath to loosen another braket (I think). Getting the snowscreen box out and put back was the biggest issue. It takes patience and a lot of wiggling back and forth. The box itself is connected to the up-tube by a pretty tight rubber gasket. Once you get that out you have to pry apart the box to get to the actual screen. Be careful at this point as it may be somewhat brittle and crack. Again have patience and just work it apart slowly. I would just take that thing out completely...then put it all back together.

Couple of bits of advice....

Do it with the car jacked up in front with the wheel off. It will make it easier to remove the fender cover and get under to work the lower box.

Clean the junction points and rubber gasket with some soapy water so they fit easily back together.

Also as a side note...I didn't see much change in performance or economy after doing this...but at least I can say that I did it.
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:27 AM
FarrisK's Avatar
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Once my warranty is over, I'm going to remove the box entirely, and try to fit a quick-disconnect U-shaped tube in it's place for winter time. I just wanted to see what kind of gunk has built up in it over the last 17K miles that I've had it... and maybe more from before that.
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:51 AM
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you dont need a snowbox, or any u-shaped thing in wintertime. I ran a bugmod.com (rip) cai which is basically an overglorified 3" dryer hose from the airbox to the fender, all year round, and i had 0 water ingestion. Granted, i also had an oil-type air filter.
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:55 PM
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I cleaned my snow box so well that it completely disappeared!
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublebarrel
I cleaned my snow box so well that it completely disappeared!
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