TDI Coolant Flange replacement - Discussion Thread

[marvins_dad]

This is a thread to discuss this guy....

http://newbeetle.org/forums/showthre...d=1#post518961

[FarrisK]

Looks good, buddy. Out of curiosity, what's the best way to clean the engine bay? If you don't have an airbox, weren't you worried about soaking your filter with water?

[marvins_dad]

My filter is at just behind the front intake on the driver's side grill under the bumper. Relocated it with 3" piping to create a cold air intake.

So...no filter to worry about getting wet. I try my hardest not to soak any wires though. I just used the de-greaser from the car wash to coat the areas then wait for a little while to let it work...then come back with the high pressure rinse on the areas that are really dingy...especially all the dried up coolant that was on the engine block.

[02AutoWag]

I mistakenly ordered two of these coolant flanges.
If anyone needs one, please send me a PM.

[ramblingrambler]

Used the same invaluable info and pics to help replace the coolant flange on a 2.0l. None of the cheap (i.e. not Bentley) manuals had it listed as even existing.

For the 2.0l (since it has the air filter in place) it is a bit more tricky:

NOTES:

Suggested additional tools:

• W Hose Clamp Pliers (if you can get these, NAPA, KNECHTS, either don't know what you are talking about, or simply don't have it in stock). The W clamps on the pipes are really tricky to remove and more impossible to try get back on.
• 2in clamp was used instead of the Hose Clamp Pliers along with a Ratchet Clamp (a hack, don't do it)

Parts:

• Coolant Flange with o-ring ($11) - make sure you get the right one, there is a similar model with less pipes.
• Stop Plug with 3 C clamps and o-rings ($2)
• Temperature Sensor ($8)

Process Removal:

• Remove the pipes (as stated in this original thread)
  (I must admit I sawed the coolant flange off in several pieces as couldn't figure out from the tech-diagrams what exactly was going on around the flange.) Unnecessary in hind sight, once you realize there are 3 nuts to remove.
• Remove the two nuts (actually three) holding the coolant flange down. This is the MAIN difference in doing this process
  • first nut is lower front
  • second nut is upper back BUT actually holds a metal support strut that is part of metal pipe. Once you remove this nut, slip the strut off (it is in a C shape so it slides off the screw)
  • third nut, lift/rotate the metal pipe out of the way to access the last nut

(at this point I discovered a 1/8" hole in the bottom of the coolant flange)

Process - Attachment

• Attach the bottom two smaller pipes first.
• Then the back pipe
• Then the large front pipe
• Attach the temperature sensor (make sure you have the o-ring in place) and clamp it firmly in place with the existing C clamp
• Attach the stop plug with C clamp

Honestly, if I had known about the '3rd' nut holding the coolant flange in the back, I would have had the process done in under an hour.

Also, really don't bother going to NAPA or Knechts, they simply don't stock the European tools and parts (dumb lesson learned.)

[macdave]

You are better off getting a replacement flange from a 5spdMT car, it is aluminum instead of plastic so it won't warp over time. It does have 3 extra holes, but they can be easily plugged.

[ramblingrambler]

Good recommendation, the amount of plastic under the hood is scary to behold. They are designed to break down.

[macdave]

Looks like the aluminum one is a lot more expensive, $125 and you will need to get the 3 glowplugs to fill the holes. Or figure out something else to fill them in.

Genuine VW / Audi Coolant Flange (038-121-133-A / 038121133A)