General info for a new owner?

[noR]

Hey guys. I just received a 2001 TDI 5spd. Up until now, I didn't think I'd ever get one, and never really took the time to learn the details. Oops.

I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to the chassis and such; but I dunno much of anything regarding TDIs.

So a couple questions to start you off; and anything a beginner should know, please tell me.

Q1: It's winter, I live in Mississippi, should I be using some fuel additive?

Q2: Someone direct me to the proper oil to use please? (I have 1.1K until due.)

Q3: Why should I clean my EGR, are there symptoms of a clogged one? And is it something I can peak at to check the condition? (96K now)

Q4: What's the timing belt schedule? Recommended and official pls.

Q5: Are there any warm-up/cool-down practices I should follow?

Q6: Any tools I may need to purchase (run across anything diesel specific? that isn't used on gassers.)

Q7: It seems peppiest between 2K and 3K. Is 1.5K rpm too low rpm for normal driving? Seems maybe a BIT, but I'm not sure due to torque curve.




btw: woohoo, ron's first Diesel thread. Only took 9 years.

[MichelleRoze]

Congrats on the Diesel!!! You'll LOVE it. Now, I'm not an expert, but from what I've learned this is what I know. My answers are in red next to the questions Some one feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. This is just what I know and what I've been told. I'm in NO WAY a TDI guru. Just been driving a TDI for 2 1/2 years now. I know it better than I did when I started, but I still have a LOOOONG way to go.

Originally Posted by noR

Hey guys. I just received a 2001 TDI 5spd. Up until now, I didn't think I'd ever get one, and never really took the time to learn the details. Oops.

I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to the chassis and such; but I dunno much of anything regarding TDIs.

So a couple questions to start you off; and anything a beginner should know, please tell me.

Q1: It's winter, I live in Mississippi, should I be using some fuel additive? I live in Georgia, and I dont' use an additive. I don't think it'll get THAT cold. Just make sure your glow plug light (the little pig tail light when you turn accesories on) turns off before you crank. That'll warm up the glow plugs and make a smoother start. (I didn't know that at first, not sure what damage can be done by not doing that... )

Q2: Someone direct me to the proper oil to use please? (I have 1.1K until due.) Mobile 1 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 is what I use. Advance Auto usually has Mobile 1 Synthetic on sale, but the signs aren't real clear, so I've been getting the TDT for the sale price, even thought I really shouldn't. So, try it

Q3: Why should I clean my EGR, are there symptoms of a clogged one? And is it something I can peak at to check the condition? (96K now) This I'm not sure. I had about that mileage when I had to have my intake and turbo cleaned. The soot builds up and cools down clogging a LOT of things. Advice given to me....drive it fast, drive it often, red line it from a dead stop every once in awhile to blow out all the soot my kinda car

Q4: What's the timing belt schedule? Recommended and official pls. 80K for the stock one I believe. Upgrade to 100K.

Q5: Are there any warm-up/cool-down practices I should follow? I was told not to idle the car to let it warm up like you would with a gasser. Just drive it. Don't go over 55mph and don't red line it when cold. Once the blue temp light is off, which doesn't take long, then drive it like normal.

Q6: Any tools I may need to purchase (run across anything diesel specific? that isn't used on gassers.) I don't know about any diesel specific tools. Although, if you get too low on fuel and get air in your lines, make sure you have a 17 open ended wrench to open the injectors and bleed the lines. Not a fun thing to do, so try not to get THAT empty.

Q7: It seems peppiest between 2K and 3K. Is 1.5K rpm too low rpm for normal driving? Seems maybe a BIT, but I'm not sure due to torque curve. I never noticed a difference really with mine, so I'm not sure. But, depending on who owned the car before you, it may be time to do a diesel purge, clean out the turbo and intake, etc. I think 1.5K is a little low. I think mine is close to 2K most of the time. But, if you have someone adjust it with a VAG-COM, (I'm not sure what Landon did), it takes off from the line much faster and has a more tinny diesel sound, and soots a little more. I figure the more soot out, the less soot that cloggs. If you want to know ask TurbineWhine (Landon) on the TDIclub.com and make sure to read that site like it were the Bible!

btw: woohoo, ron's first Diesel thread. Only took 9 years.

My only real advice is, don't trust this car with just anyone. They will SAY they know Diesel, and they don't. I trust the "trusted mechanics" on the TDIclub, WAY more than I do even the VW specialty shops. Diesel is just a small market here so it doesn't benefit most people to know it. And a lot of people assume it's not much different than a gasser. So excited that you have a diesel. I'm just jealous you have a 5 speed...I demanded an auto Oh well....but the tdiclub.com will be your best friend. And those guru's are amazing. Why they aren't VW techs, I'll never know.....

[FarrisK]

I'll do my best to give you good information, but I've been out of the TDI scene for a while. There are a couple of friendly "adjustments" I need to make to Michelle's info.

Originally Posted by noR

Q1: It's winter, I live in Mississippi, should I be using some fuel additive?
Shouldn't be necessary. Adding a bit of Diesel Kleen (with Cetane Boost) will make the engine start and run a little happier, but it's not really a big deal until you start hitting negative temperatures in °F.

Q2: Someone direct me to the proper oil to use please? (I have 1.1K until due.)
I still have a bottle of what I used at home, so I'll post that up when I get home tonight.

Q3: Why should I clean my EGR, are there symptoms of a clogged one? And is it something I can peak at to check the condition? (96K now)
The EGR lets exhaust (and soot) get back into the intake manifold of the engine, which is normally not a problem. The problem is that VW added an unfiltered CCV to the intake as well, so the soot combines with the oil and forms a nasty cake mixture inside the manifold. You'll notice less power, less mileage, and if it gets REALLY bad, you may go into limp mode. My intake manifold was down to about the diameter of a quarter - half dollar at 100k. If you look at the engine (sans cover), there is a hose clamp on the passenger side of the engine on the intake manifold. Pull that hose off and look in past the EGR valve. If it's really bad, you can pull the manifold off and pressure wash it to clean it. I had to buy a set of allen sockets to do it (needed to torque things down). It took maybe 2 hours to do everything. I agree with Michelle: Run it HARD up a hill every once in a while and you should be fine.

Q4: What's the timing belt schedule? Recommended and official pls.
80k official, upgrade to 100k components when it's done, INCLUDING WATER PUMP.

Q5: Are there any warm-up/cool-down practices I should follow?
Here's where I adjust Michelle's info: Let it idle for about 30 seconds (long enough to put seatbelt, turn on headlights, take off E-brake, that stuff) but no longer than that. Drive gently until the blue light goes off. Drive gently for 10 more minutes. The light goes off too soon, IMO. Speed doesn't matter, but engine speed does. Keep it below 3 grand.

Q6: Any tools I may need to purchase (run across anything diesel specific? that isn't used on gassers.)
Other than the allen sockets I had to buy, I don't think there's any special tools needed. Adjustment of Michelle's info: If you let it get low enough on fuel to have to actually bleed the lines, you need to sell your diesel. That would mean that you ran the tank dry, ignored the idiot light, then ran the filter dry, too (which is another ~.25 gallon, 10 miles or so). You would have to pull a vacuum on the engine feed side of the filter to pull diesel all the way through the lines from the rear of the car.

Easiest advice to give: Don't run it empty. Diesels don't like that.

Q7: It seems peppiest between 2K and 3K. Is 1.5K rpm too low rpm for normal driving? Seems maybe a BIT, but I'm not sure due to torque curve.
1.5k is a little low for my taste. I usually liked to keep it around 2k most of the time... if I was "racing" I'd keep it higher, lower if going for economy (obviously). I found that my turbo spooled up quickest if I maintained ~1.8k and then punched the skinny pedal.


btw: woohoo, ron's first Diesel thread. Only took 9 years.
Congrats, man!

[MichelleRoze]

lol thanks for the adjustments. Things I didn't know!

I was told my year model doesn't have a lift pump or something like that, so after I went "empty", it didn't lift the fuel up when I filled the tank. I knew I was low, not only on fuel but on money too, so I stretched it a bit too far. Though I filled the tank, it never made any weird noises or anything to state that I had gotten THAT low, plus, when I filled it, I didn't put the full 16 gal like I normally do (i have a vented tank). And I can normally go to 16.5, so I didn't think I was that low. But I learned my lesson. I know where to stop by my mileage most of the time. If I go past 600 miles in 1 tank, that means I'm REAL low (yours will be higher cause your a manual). It was the one and only time it happened. But I keep the wrench with me just in case.

You could always do an EGR delete....though I'm gonna wait until I get a manual to think about doing that. I don't want a runaway and no way to stop it.

[noR]

Thanks for the tips & details guys. I appreciate it.

Any other information is still welcome. The TDIClub faq is gonna take me a while to get through.

[FarrisK]

Originally Posted by MichelleRoze

My only real advice is, don't trust this car with just anyone. They will SAY they know Diesel, and they don't.

I didn't even catch that you had this at the end of your post, but I felt like it should be repeated:

Don't trust this car with just anyone. They will SAY they know Diesel, and they don't.

There are a couple of "diesel only" shops in my area that *claim* to know TDIs, and when I called them to ask about their service options (chiptuning, oil changes, etc), the answers they gave me scared the everlivingcrap out of me.

"Oh yeah, you can just put any ol' diesel approved oil in it." (FAR from the truth)
"We'll just put a tuning box on the fuel injector sensor line." (horrid thing to do... my car ate an injector pump from one of those things... thank God for the warranty I bought)
"You're only getting 38 mpg highway? That's still pretty good compared to other people, so it should be fine." (basically telling me not to complain about having a sudden 10-15% drop in fuel efficiency.)

[jdesigns]

Originally Posted by noR

Hey guys. I just received a 2001 TDI 5spd. Up until now, I didn't think I'd ever get one, and never really took the time to learn the details. Oops.


btw: woohoo, ron's first Diesel thread. Only took 9 years.

You of all people should already know how to use the "Search" button! Shame on you!

Just kidding man! Is this Phrog's replacement or just an addition? Congrats! I'd love to find a decent TDi NB!

[DZLBUG]

Congrats Ron, you're going to love it! Details man, details! Is it a NB? Golf? Jetta? Got pics?

1) Non-winterized D2 is good down to about 10F or so, does it ever get that cold in Mississippi? If it ever does, or you even travel north in the winter, run some Power Service in the white bottle to ensure that no gelling occurs. There are some benefits to running a lubricity additive year-round, but I don't as B5 biodiesel is mandated in MN. The bio provides more than enough lubricity for the injection pump. Is biodiesel mandated in Mississippi? If at least B2 is mandated, I don't think you need to worry about running any additive ever. If you do decide to run additive, Power Service in the silver bottle is good for year-round use. Stanadyne also makes good additive.

2) Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 or Shell Rotella T 5w-40 (blue bottle) are both very good oils, with TDT possibly having a slight edge. 10k oil change intervals are specified. Do not change it early as this actually increases wear. Use quality filters like Mann or Bosch.

3) You should clean it if it hasn't been done. Soot from the EGR mixes with crankcase vapors and the small amounts of oil that make it past the turbo seals at idle forming nasty deposits. This can easily be checked for by pulling the hose off the intake manifold. Some will be so severely clogged that not even a finger tip can be inserted into the EGR. Symptoms include low power and boost related fault codes/limp mode. Do not be tempted to knock any of this gunk loose. The EGR valve and intake manifold need to be removed from the engine and cleaned thoroughly.

4) I believe a 2001 5 speed had a 60k interval from the factory. Through the years the timing belt interval changed due to changes in the design of the timing belt, large roller and tensioner pulley. 2003 models (last of the ALH engine) had a 100k interval regardless of transmission. All timing belt kits from reputable vendors use the 100k parts. Without knowing the maintenance history of the car, you should consider doing a complete timing belt job as soon as possible. All parts in the path of the timing belt must be replaced. Belt, tensioner, water pump, 3 rollers (one with new stretch bolt), new motor mount bolts and vacuum pump seal must all be replaced.

Deluxe TB kits can be purchased through many reputable TDI vendors including:
VW TDI timing belts, aluminum VW skid plates, VW short shift kits, VW G60 clutch, and Race Pipes by www.dieselgeek.com
www.tdiparts.com
Bora Parts
Parts for all water cooled VW cars specializing in TDI models
...among others.

You are in a bit of a dead zone when it comes to TDI mechanics. I would not trust this job to a VW dealership or typical mechanic. There are specialized tools that MUST BE USED along with the proper procedure. Failure to do so will result in engine damage. It is not that hard of a job, with the right tools and procedure it is actually quite easy if you know how to turn wrenches and follow directions. The problems occur when shops try to get by without using the correct tools and they treat them like any other gasser timing belt and cut corners.

If you feel up to the task, I have the tools available for rent. You're also going to need VCDS to check and fine tune injection timing. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, there is someone who can do it who is a reasonable distance from you.

Here is his info from TDIclub.com:
Pat Heidingsfelder
sk8rdi16
211 E. Third St.
Long Beach, MS 39560
pheidingsfelder@gmail.com
two two eight - 383-2601

5) Warm up: Start up the engine. Check your mirrors. Buckle your seatbelt. Drive. Keep rpms below 2500 until the engine is warmed up. Once warmed up, allow the engine to rev to at least 3000 rpm. At least once a day, let the engine rev up to redline a few times. Do not baby and short shift the engine all the time. Let it rev out, let the turbo do its thing. Failure to do so results in jammed VNT vanes in the turbo which can cause overboost problems, limp mode, and even turbo failure.

Cool down: I like to let the car idle for 10-20 seconds before shutting it down. Longer if just getting off the highway or after hard driving where the EGT's are up.

6) Tools:
- Mityvac or equivalent hand-operated vacuum pump with gauge. Useful for checking for vacuum leaks, diagnosing turbo problems, and for bleeding air out during fuel filter changes.

- Pela 6000 oil extractor to do topside oil changes

- Cable operated hose clamp pliers (Harbor Freight or Sears). Works great on charge air piping and coolant hose clamps.

- Ball-end hex drivers

- Metalnerd Timing Belt tools (if doing your own TB work, can also be rented)

- VCDS

- Line clamp set for fuel filter changes. Harbor Freight Item# 97578

7) The car should cruise happily along at 1500 rpm. But don't lug it below that. Also don't flat foot the fuel pedal below 1800. Roll into it to let the boost build. Flat footing it results in compressor surge before the VNT can react. Remember not to baby the engine too much. Let it breathe and exercise it regularly.

Thats all I can think of for right now. I'm sure there is more. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me. I'm always glad to help and talk TDI. Aaron (Growler) is a great resource as well. Also, take a look around the forums at Fred's TDI Page. TDIClub.com. VW TDI Enthusiast Community as it is the best resource out there. Lots of good folks ready and willing to help. Just learn to use the search function and familiarize yourself with the layout there before asking a bunch of questions. Newbies that ask tons of questions that have been asked eleventy-billion times before sometimes get ignored or chastized. Everybody means well, but there are certain things that seem to press the collective buttons easily. I go by TDICADDGUY over there, so send me a PM sometime if you join up so I know who you are.

[DZLBUG]

I see I'm a bit late to the party...I started replying to you...then left it for awhile without reloading to see other responses.

Lots of good info above as well. The TDIFAQ is a good start, but to be honest it is a bit outdated at this point. The best thing you can do is just start reading and reading and reading some more. Keep up to date on the current topics in TDI 101, in the A4 section and in the Upgrades and Performance sections. Lots of good info in there.

Pay attention to those users who pop up frequently. Oilhammer, JasonTDI, MOGolf, Drivbiwire, Franko6, LugNut, Wingnut, greengeeker, dieseldorf, Growler, Paramedick, Jetter Sprinta, fixumrich, ninedee_golf_tdi, TdiRacing, ymz, HermTDI and many many others. The collective wisdom there is impressive.

[noR]

Excellent DZLBUG. Quick question, I saw you mentioned VNT a few times. Does my 2001 have this? (I'm thinking vnt = variable vanes; but obviously I'm not clear on that.)

Looks like I'll take a look at the intake shortly, thanks guys. Not sure about the TB, I'll take a peak, and I'll ask the Previous owner(father-in-law), but he only had it a couple months. So I'll probably try to peek at the belt in some attempt to determine age.

details... haha. You act like I'm on a TDI or vw board. :P It's a NEW BEETLE of course.

Car's in really good shape for 2001. I don't know who the pre-pre-owner in Missouri was, but I think they garaged it, and took good care of it.

[FarrisK]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

Shell Rotella T 5w-40 (blue bottle)

That's it.

[DZLBUG]

VNT = Variable Nozzle Turbo and yes, your car has one. The ALH engine that is in your car was used in 98-03 New Beetles and 99.5-03 Jetta/Golf and they are pretty much all the same except for some of the TB components. The VNT mechanism is controlled by the ECU (via the N75 valve) based on info from the MAF and MAP sensor and other parameters. The N75 valve controls the turbo via a vacuum actuator which is down on the turbo to move the vanes as needed.

Before I forget, the TDI engine is blessed with the same DMF that the 1.8T's use...so beware of that.

Some 2001 engines also had problems with porous and soft camshafts. The valve cover should be removed for inspection, this can be done during the TB change. The good news is that cam and lifter replacement is cheap and easy on these engines.

Getting back to the TB, you're not going to be able to tell much. A belt with 10k miles on it often looks identical to a belt with 100k on it. It is rarely the belt that fails, failure is usually caused by the water pump, tensioner, or one of the other 3 rollers in the path of the TB. Even if the TB has been done, unless it was done by a TDI mechanic...you cannot assume it was done right or completely. VW dealers never replace all the parts. If you're lucky they replace the tensioner or water pump, many will do the belt and that is it. But even a new belt will get trashed in seconds after a failure of one of the other components.

Unless you can verify beyond the shadow of a doubt that the job has been done correctly and completely, I would STRONGLY SUGGEST having it done so you have a reliable baseline.

I cannot stress this point enough.

[CoriBug]

A few posts mentioned gelling. FWIW, never had a problem with B20, even with the car left outside in below zero temps for 2 days straight without starting the engine. I prefer 2000 RPM for cruising but yours is an 01 and mine is a BEW so slower RPMs might be better for you.

Did anyone say HAVE FUN! Are you double dubbin now or is the TDI a replacement car?

[dnyed]

Congratulations!

[Deserion]

1. Regular ULS diesel is fine.
2. I use Castrol Syntec 5w40 in ours. Same as the 1.8T/2.0Ts, nothing overly special needed with these as they're not the PD-TDIs with 505.01+ specs.
3. Pop the intake hose off, and you can see how good/bad it is. Either way, get it closed via VCDS.
4. 60k, upgrade to 100k parts. More involved with tools and parts than a 1.8T is, but the same concept.
5. If I was running it hard, I let it idle for a minute or so before shutdown (say hard Interstate or backroads). Otherwise, normal low-speed driving will suffice. Remember it's only oil-cooled versus the water/oil cooled 3K turbo on the 1.8T.
6. Already answered.
7. 2-3k is a good range to shift, take it up to 5450 (redline) on occasion to blow out any soot.

[noR]

Originally Posted by Deserion

Remember it's only oil-cooled versus the water/oil cooled 3K turbo on the 1.8T.

First I'd heard of that. Thanks Des.

[noR]

Originally Posted by CoriBug

A few posts mentioned gelling. FWIW, never had a problem with B20, even with the car left outside in below zero temps for 2 days straight without starting the engine. I prefer 2000 RPM for cruising but yours is an 01 and mine is a BEW so slower RPMs might be better for you.

Did anyone say HAVE FUN! Are you double dubbin now or is the TDI a replacement car?

Double. Well once I get my Blue Beetle back anyway.

Hmm... B20 (20% biodiesel?), ULS (ultra low sulfur?) I may have to go learn what types of diesels I have available and choose something to go with.

DZL: Dual mass flywheel. gotcha.

[Smileybug]

ULSD (ultra low sulfur) is going to be easier to get of course. And it has all the proper additives for winter time. B20 (20% biodiesel) will likely be harder to come by. I haven't personally run a vehicle with it (thats the next step though on our '84 Jetta TD) but I've heard great things about running it. Helps quiet the car a little, cleans out the fuel system, among other things. You can run it in any percentage in your car with no issue most likely, as my friend with an '06 Jetta was running 100% biodiesel in his car with no problem. I wouldn't go higher than the B20 in the winter though. At lower temperatures, it can gel up (since its made from fats or oils) but in a low blend you should be fine, especially in Missippi.

I'm a bit biased though. I'm really into biodiesel. Helped my fiance build a biodiesel reactor for his senior design project this past spring and we're still tinkering with it...hoping to get usable fuel out of it soon

Congrats on the new diesel! My parents almost has me a TDI instead of my 2.0 but it got snatched up before they got there. I'll probably be picking up something TDI for my next car!

[Growler]

Welcome to the durty side

its more the 2002s than the 2001s that have the camshaft issues. but its always good to check.

I would be happy to replace your tming belt system for you and show you all kinds of things about your car,, if you are willing to come up here lol

otherwise depending on how far you are willing to travel, I can recommend a couple people. theres guys in KY, GA, NC, OH, MO, Indiana, FL, etc it all depends on where you are willing to travel.

I run B20 in my Golf 2001 ALL THE TIME. no worries. so long as it comes from a good source. I buy mine from a Sunoco pump already mixed to B20

[MichelleRoze]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

Before I forget, the TDI engine is blessed with the same DMF that the 1.8T's use...so beware of that.

Really? That I didn't know. I thought only the newer models had DMF. Hmmm....

Amazing how this car is SO much different than a gasser. You have to drive it different, treat it different, and watch out for who touches it. Kinda like an exotic! lol But I love it!