Changed Glow Plugs and now Won't Start:(

[BillyMagnum]

So I changed my glow plugs. Easy peasy. Simple. Or well I thought so. I unscrewed the 4 and put the 4 new in. Now the car won't start. 2000NB TDI
Battery is fine. Charged too. I just drove the car two nights ago. any thoughts? I can't seem to find anything online or on the forums. Harness is good. everything seems to be intact...Help! please and thanks!
David

[Smileybug]

I knew I recognized your name over in the TDI/diesel technical section on Vortex...just couldn't figure out why. Don't usually see Orgers over there

What does it do when you ty to start it?

[FarrisK]

Why did you change your glow plugs? Was there an issue with them before?

[NewBeetleMechanic]

1. With the ignition switch turned off, disconnect the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS).

2. Turn the ignition to the on position. The glow plug relay should energize for about 20 seconds (glow system self-test) and supply the glow plugs with 12 volts.

3. Check the amp draw on each individual glow plug. A normal glow plug will show a draw of about 9 amps (on initial application of power, the amp draw will spike high until the glow plug begins to heat. A typical spike can run as high as 19 amps).

4. Check the glow plug wiring and connections for damage, looseness or corrosion.

5. A difference in amperage draw of 3 amps between glow plugs can cause a code P0380 to set. Be sure that all glow plugs are within 3 amps of each other on initial application of power and also during normal glow period.

6. If glow plugs fail testing, always replace them as a set.




Or it might be this:

Perform the throttle basic setting procedure, using a full function factory compatible scan tool, as follows:

1. Turn the ignition off.

2. Check the throttle body condition. It must be free of carbon buildup and be in the full mechanical closed position. Wipe clean as necessary, using a rag dampened with cleaner (Never use an aerosol cleaner. Aerosol cleaners can damage the throttle control module).

3. Check and verify integrity of the vacuum lines. No vacuum leaks may be present.

4. Check and verify that all filters and screens in the intake system are clean.

5. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine.

6. Clear all trouble codes.

7. Enter the Engine Address Word 01, Function 04 Basic Settings. The throttle basic settings are accomplished using one of 2 display groups. Display group 098 (in general vehicles equipped with a throttle cable) and display group 060 (in general full throttle by wire vehicles). Once the appropriate display group is entered, the adaptation process will begin.
NOTE: Entering the wrong display group will not start the adaptation process. Simply enter the other display group number.

8. Observe the 4th displayed field on the scan tool. It should read "ADP RUNS" and change to "ADP OK" after about 45 seconds (It may happen quicker than this, as well).

9. Once ADP OK is displayed, back out to the opening menu on the scan tool and turn the ignition off for 45 seconds.

10. Restart the vehicle normally. This completes the adaptation process.

11. Test-drive the vehicle and verify that no codes reset and that the throttle operation is now normal.



Might even be this:

1. As of model year 2000, Volkswagen has changed the immobilizer system and the 7 digit PIN numbers are no longer available to the aftermarket. These vehicles all now use the Volkswagen GeKo (GeKo is a German acronym from the term Geheimnis und Komponentenschutz. In English this means Security and Component Protection. GeKo is the name Volkswagen used for the Security and Component Protection process.). Retrieval of immobilizer codes can still be performed with any Volkswagen compatible scan tool, but adapting new keys or any procedure requiring the 7 digit PIN number (Replacing Engine Control Module (ECM) or Instrument Panel (IP)) requires the vehicle to be serviced by a Volkswagen dealer using the GeKo system.

2. Acquire any extra keys from the vehicle owner and try to start with different keys. Should the vehicle start with an alternative key this would indicate a bad key. A new key should be purchased and programmed at a VW authorized repair shop.

3. There have been good results by performing a vehicle cold re-boot for restoring immobilizer functionality without the need for programming due to logic locked modules. Disconnect both battery cables and momentarily touch them together. Leave disconnected for 15 minutes then reconnect. Attempt to start the vehicle.

4. An alternative method is leaving the vehicle key in the ignition with the key on and engine off for 1 hour (note: it is a good idea to place a battery charger on the battery during this procedure to prevent battery voltage going low. In addition, apply the emergency brake to disable daytime running light function). This procedure can cause a key relearn to occur and reestablish normal anti-theft operation and vehicle starting.

5. If the vehicle still does not start, then arrange to have it towed to an authorized dealer.


If none of those help, let us know.

[DZLBUG]

My guess would be that you maybe knocked something loose when you were working on it - the IP harness for example.

Have you had the fuel system open at all?

Here is a good troubleshooting thread to work through:
Car won't start troubleshooting - TDIClub Forums

[BillyMagnum]

Ill try all these things out and let you all know. I'll also take a video and explain what's happening. And yes dzl just did the fuel temp sensor but it started right up afterwards and I drove it.

[BillyMagnum]

no wires hoses etc are disconnected...pump in tank works fine(can hear it) It seems as is the IP isn't getting power...fuses for it? solenoid? help!

[Lew]

When you turn on your key, does the glow plub light come on your panel?

[DZLBUG]

Originally Posted by BillyMagnum

no wires hoses etc are disconnected...pump in tank works fine(can hear it) It seems as is the IP isn't getting power...fuses for it? solenoid? help!

You must be hearing things, TDI's didn't get a lift pump in the tank until the 04+ PD models. If you have a helper turn the key while you listen to the IP, you should hear it click when the key is turned on. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid that occasionally fails.

Originally Posted by Lew

When you turn on your key, does the glow plub light come on your panel?

Ditto.

[BillyMagnum]

Originally Posted by Lew

When you turn on your key, does the glow plub light come on your panel?

gp light comes on with key for a few seconds but turns off...

[BillyMagnum]

[QUOTE=DZLBUG;700987]You must be hearing things, TDI's didn't get a lift pump in the tank until the 04+ PD models. If you have a helper turn the key while you listen to the IP, you should hear it click when the key is turned on. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid that occasionally fails.

well then maybe it's the IP I hear click? but if the solenoid failed would it still click? and how can I check the solenoid?
you should come help me! lol

[kcfoxie]

Ok, first off what are your outside temps *right now*

Is the car in a garage or outside?

What I want to break down is this: is this a non-start because the GPs are required due to air temp and they're malfunctioning, or is there another issue and the GPs are fine.

If the air temp is above 45 it SHOULD start without the GPs. SHOULD.

The first thing to check next to GPs is fuel flow. What I'd do here is use a 13mm to loosen the nut on one of your injector lines going to the engine and turn the car over a few times. Do you see fuel squirting out? Was it immediate or did it take time? If it was immediate you'd got good pressure, if it took a few turns you should crack the other lines and bleed them all and try starting it again.

If the fuel looks good, the fuel shut off solenoid might be a culprit and it's located here:

I'd pull it out and check the o-ring, replace it if it looks worn. Test the spring mechanism for function. Reassemble.

If that all seems OK, check the anti-shutter valve in the air intake and see if it's stuck closed. If you've got air and fuel, the only thing I can come up with OTHER than the GPs are required due to cold air temp... is the engine speed sensor.

Also Relay 109... check it, could be bad and preventing GPs from working.

[BillyMagnum]

Originally Posted by kcfoxie

Ok, first off what are your outside temps *right now*

Is the car in a garage or outside?

What I want to break down is this: is this a non-start because the GPs are required due to air temp and they're malfunctioning, or is there another issue and the GPs are fine.

If the air temp is above 45 it SHOULD start without the GPs. SHOULD.

The first thing to check next to GPs is fuel flow. What I'd do here is use a 13mm to loosen the nut on one of your injector lines going to the engine and turn the car over a few times. Do you see fuel squirting out? Was it immediate or did it take time? If it was immediate you'd got good pressure, if it took a few turns you should crack the other lines and bleed them all and try starting it again.

If the fuel looks good, the fuel shut off solenoid might be a culprit and it's located here:

I'd pull it out and check the o-ring, replace it if it looks worn. Test the spring mechanism for function. Reassemble.

If that all seems OK, check the anti-shutter valve in the air intake and see if it's stuck closed. If you've got air and fuel, the only thing I can come up with OTHER than the GPs are required due to cold air temp... is the engine speed sensor.

Also Relay 109... check it, could be bad and preventing GPs from working.

Outside temps are getting colder but have been in 60's when i've been working on it. Car is Outside covered with a battery tender on it. Starting to snow now tho. May or may not be the plugs...but they are getting power and ignighting. wiring and all connections are fine. Harness is fine. multimeter reads plugs are good. I am going to check the fuel lines and injectors today if I can...I'll see if they squirt fuel etc...I'll also check the relay, solenoid and air intake valve and go from there...it has to be one of these things...It just ran the other week ((but I wanna make sure it turns over before I finish the main part of the injector pump(main o-ring leak-fuel spews out at start) so I know if I did that right or not. ))

[kcfoxie]

The Shut off solenoid... let me tell you my story. Keep in mind, my car is a 98 and has 260,000 miles (had high 250s when this happened)....

We'd just done the timing belt. I was driving back from atlanta and had court at 8am next morning. was gonna get home about 2am at my rate of speed.

Pulled off for a 5-hour energy... was sleept, beat, spent 13-ish hours working on this stupid car. was ready for bed.....

Pulled off, shut the car off... all was fine. Get back in, crank it up...VROOOOOOM.... it reved up to 2200rpm at startup. Weird, Peaches must be ready to go home I think.

Hit the highway. Slowly. The turbo seems to be.... not working. Crap, I think.

Pull off next exit, check everything, hoses are fine can't figure it out, head it spool when I gas it at idle.... what the heck?

Drive back home, eventually the GP light blinked at me to say the car was now in limp mode.

Scan kept saying Shut off solenoid error.

After a two week wait the $2.50 o-ring comes in. Took an hour to figure out how to take the stupid solenoid off (use an adjustable wrench!! be patient!!!) and then saw a flat spot and a small hairline crack in the old o-ring. Installed the new one, put it back on... fired the car up... 900rpm start.. hey that's normal!

Now it's boosting!! That little o-ring let enough air in to depressurize the fuel so that I wasn't getting enough fuel to match the air... I was running lean.

So I can believe that a badly eroded o-ring could leak enough air to cause a no-start situation.

Let us know... I hope you get it cranked. 60+ outside... and snowing? WHERE do you live?

60+ shouldn't need GPs so you have another issue on your hands that decided to crop up right after an unrelated system upgrade... just like my o-ring flopped out after the t-belt service.

[BillyMagnum]

western md...well 30's now but has been 60's when I was working on the car. lol already got 4 inches of snow in some spots...gonna try everything out I'll letcha know!

[Lew]

All the things that Relay 109, (aka J317-Power Supply (Terminal 30, B+) Relay) powers.

N108-cold start injector
N75-Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve
N239-Change-over valve for intake manifold flap
N18-EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve
G70-Mass Air Flow Sensor
J52-Glow Plug Relay
F36-Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve Switch
F47-Brake Vacuum Vent Valve Switch
F-Brake Light Switch
N79-PCV Heater Element
J359, J360-Relays for Preheating Coolant (coolant glow plugs)
N146-Quantity Adjuster
G149-Modulating Piston Displacement Sensor
G81-Fuel Temperature Sensor

[FarrisK]

I still want to know why you were replacing your glow plugs. Was there a starting issue before? Were they not functioning?

[BillyMagnum]

Car is almost 100k and since I've been tuning it up figured I'd change gp's while I was at it...they've never been done.

[kcfoxie]

Age isn't a reason to replace GPs, if they work they'll keep working. They're kind of like stove top elements... they take forever to really burn out.

That said have you tried putting the old ones back in? There is the off chance that you got the wrong voltage ones (new ones) and the system isn't charging them right.

It's another thought.

[BillyMagnum]

Originally Posted by kcfoxie

Age isn't a reason to replace GPs, if they work they'll keep working. They're kind of like stove top elements... they take forever to really burn out.

That said have you tried putting the old ones back in? There is the off chance that you got the wrong voltage ones (new ones) and the system isn't charging them right.

It's another thought.

I understand...I'm just anal so was intent on doing it.
Well no don't have the old ones anymore(stupid me!) and they are the correct voltage I double checked.