CEL Woes

[ImBuggin]

The check engine light must be a good idea, however, I feel that there are a lot of posts regarding its many personalities.

I just read a post about a hissing under the hood associated with the CEL (Check Engine Light) and I too have a hissing noise, but I am not sure that it is on the passenger side, it seems loudest near the MAF. Either way, that is partially why I am inquiring to all of you Bug Tech's about the codes that returned from a diagnostic.

I have 50,000 miles and have not changed the plugs yet - they are on order for tomorrow: OEM NGK Lazer PLatinums, but that is only after I looked at the service manual and saw that they were supposed to be changed at 40,000 miles.

The AutoZone Tech gave me a list of codes that are seperated by currrent codes and "pending codes."

Current code for the CEL is:
P1128 - Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System Too Lean

Pending codes revolve around a theme of a ground short:
P1225 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 1 Short To Ground
P1226 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 2 Short To Ground
P1227 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 3 Short To Ground
P1228 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 4 Short To Ground
P1425 - Tank Ventilation Valve Short To Ground
P1472 - EVAP Control System LDP Circuit Short To Ground

Currently I am not noticing any significant change in fuel milage or perfomance (although I am not heavy on the peddle). I find it funny that there is a ground interuption and am suspicious of the ECM...

Any thoughts?

[from Margaritaville...]

Yes, you'd be wise to use the special tool recommended to remove the plug wires. They're likely to break if you elect to just pull them off...

[ImBuggin]

The "special" tool...is that a VW only part or can I purchase it somewhere else?

[Oyveychris]

Originally Posted by ImBuggin

The check engine light must be a good idea, however, I feel that there are a lot of posts regarding its many personalities.

I just read a post about a hissing under the hood associated with the CEL (Check Engine Light) and I too have a hissing noise, but I am not sure that it is on the passenger side, it seems loudest near the MAF. Either way, that is partially why I am inquiring to all of you Bug Tech's about the codes that returned from a diagnostic.

I have 50,000 miles and have not changed the plugs yet - they are on order for tomorrow: OEM NGK Lazer PLatinums, but that is only after I looked at the service manual and saw that they were supposed to be changed at 40,000 miles.

The AutoZone Tech gave me a list of codes that are seperated by currrent codes and "pending codes."

Current code for the CEL is:
P1128 - Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System Too Lean

Pending codes revolve around a theme of a ground short:
P1225 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 1 Short To Ground
P1226 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 2 Short To Ground
P1227 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 3 Short To Ground
P1228 - Injector Circuit Cylinder 4 Short To Ground
P1425 - Tank Ventilation Valve Short To Ground
P1472 - EVAP Control System LDP Circuit Short To Ground

Currently I am not noticing any significant change in fuel milage or perfomance (although I am not heavy on the peddle). I find it funny that there is a ground interuption and am suspicious of the ECM...

Any thoughts?

I just had the same list of codes accompanied by a hissing: it was a leak in the vacuum line for the brake booster as well as a bad 02 sensor.

[ImBuggin]

Thanks, Chris, I am going out to check the vacuum hoses to the brake master cylinder now. I did just have the brakes - rotors and pads - replaced.

I still have the plugs ordered and priced out the plug wires just under $60. Is there anything I should know about removing the wires so they don't need replaced?

Oh, Chris, which Ox sensor was it? Fore or Aft?

[from Margaritaville...]

Here's a related thread regarding replacing/ re-using spark plug wires...


http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/show...ark+plug+wires

[ImBuggin]

I guess that it is worth it to purchase wires before I tear into the plugs, even if I don't use them. Thanks for the reply. I know the members have issues with the "Stealerships," but where should I purchase "off the shelf" wires and/or wire removal tool?

Oh, I checked the vacuum hose from the brake booster...not leaking that I can see.

Any suggestions on what the code sequence might be? I think the noise I hear is the air through the MAF into the intake, not sure though.

[ImBuggin]

O.K. Been a while, but the light went out... and then, the light came back on again. I have been sticking my head under my hood incessantly and have begun sticking my head under the hoods of every VW I see with a hood up. I think it is an obsession!

Inbetween my obsessive behavior, I have noticed that there is eccessive noise from the intake tube. I went to the "stealership" (which by the way, I have good repoire with my parts department and absolutely despise the service department, but that will be saved for another thread) and asked them for the part, that as far as I can determine is the CVV? There is excessive oil in the breather tube (an o-ring problem...I hope not) around the inlet from the valve cover to the breather tube. The vacuum line underneath this recirculating tube does "hiss" and when I pinch it, it silences. I did get a new vacuum line since the other was starting to show signs of "rot." That did not solve it. Is there another leak that would be causeing excessive draft from this CCV (or is it a PVC heater? whatever it is it appears to be manufactured in China as well as a "Sell sensor?")? I will once again go check to see if I see anything loose around the brake master cylinder, but I have not noticed the noise coming from that area.

I am still driving the "question mark," although I am concerned. It does not appear to have any real performance issues...

I did change the spark plugs and the generic pulling tool worked fine. The car did improve it's standing idle with no misfires. It did have a shimmy before and the NKG plugs (E3 series) were quite worn.

I am still trying to figure it out...I asked the parts counter what the hell the part was and they just told me that they could sell me the entire breathing tube. There was no listing for a valve/sensor on the breathing apparatus. Oh, yeah, the inlet to the breather tube has an electrical connection if that helps anyone to see what I am talking about.

[Oyveychris]

I forgot to mention that I also had a faulty fuel pump relay at the same time. The front o2 sensor went bad on my car, the rear from what I understand rarely goes bad.

[ImBuggin]

I may need an O2 sensor. I think that my pump relay may also be bad...but here is the kabash...the light is out again. I still need to check to see if the vacuum line is noisy, but I took the assembly apart to take a picture of the portion of the breather tube to post (which I still haven't) and put it all back together...including the noise (last night)...but this morning, no CEL!!!!

What the CEL!!! I am baffled, but reading through the threads, I think there might be a problem with the pump relay. I opened my driver's door the other evening (it was hot, very hot) and no pump noise. That was strange. Does the pump need to come on every time the door is opened, or does it actually sense the line pressure?

The O2 (and knowing which one is potentially the first to go is most of the battle) sensor is suspect seeing that these 2.0 liters tend to eat them... I asked my other parts guy (which I am not sure is as capable as I had given him credit for in the past) if I should change the sensors since it was over 49,000. And to quote him, "No, the sensors are good for between 60,000 and 120,000 miles." I priced it out anyway and thought that it was worth the wait...maybe my wait is over!