99 gls dead battery or alt. or what??

[Midwest_beetlebug]

Hi all,

My 99 beetle gls with 94K miles would not restart after driving it for 30 min. When I went to start it it acted like the battery was almost dead. I got it jumped, drove another 20 min. then all the idiot lights started coming on, speedo went dead, shorly there after the car quit running.

I do not know the age of the battery, it says AAA, so I'm thinking it's not the original.

How do it tell if its the battery or the alternator or what?

THANKS!

[draco24433]

it sounds like your alternator is not charging the battery. First, make sure all the connections to the battery are properly secured. Second, take a look at you alternator, make sure the connection are also secured. If everything is secured then I would have to assume that your alternator is probably bad.

[Midwest_beetlebug]

I put the car on a charger for an hour, it then started, but the battery light was on. I tested voltage at battery while running and it was only 10.8 volts.

Assuming I need a new alternator, any suggestions on where and what type / brand to buy??

Thanks!

[Seca]

call around to your local parts stores and check prices. Most alternators you find will be remaned units. Nothing wrong with using them and saving a few bucks. Make sure before you go up to buy one that you take your old one with you so that you wont be charged for the core. KEEP THE RECIEPT!!!! Just incase you have an issue with it before the warranty expires. To be on the safe side I would take the battery up there and have them test it also. It isnt un common for a battery to get fried from a bad alternator or vise versa.

[Midwest_beetlebug]

Anybody know the alternator specs on a 99 GLS automatic, power windows, no seat heat, standard stereo? 70, 90 or 120 AMP?

[Seca]

Not sure what the specs are but after you get the alternator off it should have the amps on it or you could just give them the numbers that are on the tag and they can match it up.

[draco24433]

Go over to AutoZone. They should know what type of alternator you'll need. I have use them for many parts and never had any problems.

[Jdmbeetleon18z]

u do not need specs of your alternator.. just the yr, model engine size.. and the info stuff they have do the rest and will pull up the right batter.. if im not mistaken its a mt 48 for interstate batt... alright take care.. shoots

[Seca]

Originally Posted by Jdmbeetleon18z

u do not need specs of your alternator.. just the yr, model engine size.. and the info stuff they have do the rest and will pull up the right batter.. if im not mistaken its a mt 48 for interstate batt... alright take care.. shoots

Some cars do have 1 or 2 options for an alternator depending on the model options you have.

[Jdmbeetleon18z]

thats true.. if not just call dealer.. get the right info .. more likely they will ask for your vin.. usually engine size, vin number, production date.. thats how i order my parts from all local parts store, checkers, napa,autozone.. never had problem by just givin the basic information.. thanks tho seca.. appreciate it.. shoots

[Midwest_beetlebug]

Thanks all, I just pulled the old one out, was easier that expected to remove! Its a 90 amp Bosch. Battery checks out ok. I pulled the brushes out for kicks, they look fine but I have no measurment to check against?

[Seca]

Originally Posted by Midwest_beetlebug

Thanks all, I just pulled the old one out, was easier that expected to remove! Its a 90 amp Bosch. Battery checks out ok. I pulled the brushes out for kicks, they look fine but I have no measurment to check against?

It could also be the internal regulator. Who knows unless you have the tools to measure everything. At least with a reman everything should be replaced. Although you do sound like me and like to verify what exactly went wrong...lol.

[99beetlefl]

What engine does the 120A come from? Im thinking swappage

[Midwest_beetlebug]

Originally Posted by Seca

It could also be the internal regulator. Who knows unless you have the tools to measure everything. At least with a reman everything should be replaced. Although you do sound like me and like to verify what exactly went wrong...lol.

Yes, I always like taking things all the way apart to find how they work and why they failed. I do however think I'm at the end of the line on this one. I will replace it. I went to a local Checker auto parts store with the old on just so they could put it on the tester to verify what I think I already know. However the guy there said their test rig does not support VW so he could not test. They also said at least 5 days to order a replacement.

I am thinking I may buy a used unit from a salvage place on ebay and close to me, only $49 with a lifetime replacement guarantee? If it goes bad its only a 15 minute project to swap it out. Just run the risk of it failing while on the road I guess?

[Midwest_beetlebug]

I just replaced the alternator and drive belt with new. Voltage now checks out good and all is well again! Alternator $174, belt $26.

[Seca]

Originally Posted by Midwest_beetlebug

I just replaced the alternator and drive belt with new. Voltage now checks out good and all is well again! Alternator $174, belt $26.

[Too Cold NB1.8T]

You may want to replace the automatic belt tensioner if it is the original one, if the tensioner is weak, this could cause the new alternator to fail prematurely as well as destroy the new belt.