Well I did it...

[LadybugEwa]

Okay, I'll do that, or maybe I'll end up getting a whole new oil breather - gotta see the partscouterguy.
Good thing I'm at my bf's today, as the closest dealer here has a really cool old codger at the parts counter. The ones by my house are pretty useless
Sorry to get your thread a bit there, D2Beetle, but your attention to detail has helped me to understand a lot

[D2Beetle]

Ok, well this weekend it looks like I’m finally going to get the new head put on. But not without a lot of frustration… I have been ‘ing at it and here is what started it…

I have two Bentley manuals, the original book which only covered the '98 and '99 and I also have the online subscription. The cylinder head removal process does not match between them. This has caused me so much frustration that I have been plagued with ensuring that the timing marks all line up or I’ll be doomed…

Until this morning that is, I had yet to develop a “fools proof” method for ensuring that the new head is aligned in the same position as the old head; however I had an epiphany this morning... the rear timing belt cover (#21) has the cam timing mark on it and you know what? It has the timing mark on it!! Well DUH!!

So here is the “fools proof” method… Set the timing to TDC as you normally would on the old head, then unbolt the rear timing belt cover from the old head, bolt it to the new head, turn the cam on the new head till the cam gear mark lines up and I'm done! Why I have to make something simple so complicated is beyond me!!

Well I'm ready to remove the old head, ten bolts is all it takes; waiting for the weekend though. Here are some pictures of the old head.

[D2Beetle]

Well I have had a surprise... the head bolt tool the book and the online subscription says to use T10070; however it is not the right one for my head... OK, I found the right tool, the T10070 is the current tool, but I need the tool that it replaced; MetalNerd had the tool so I ordered it and now I'm waiting for it to come in.

[antonym]

Looking good!

[LadybugEwa]

Your pictures are so detailed and interesting, I feel like taking mine apart just for the fun of it

[D2Beetle]

Well I received the final tool yesterday and I plan to remove the head when I get home from work today. Now I'm sure that one or two of you are wondering how much time and money this has cost me (taxes and shipping are included where applicable); The problem actually started in November of 07 and I started seriously working the problem January 6th (I posted my woes that day) and I'm still going five months later, oh boy...

Well let me start with the cost of a water pump and timing belt change, because that is what I thought the problem was initially and I felt it should be included. Also the VAG-COM software is not required, but I got it because I have three NB's and I can now do my own diagnosing. I also picked up some "Tune Up" related parts just because it was time to do it again.

There is only one labor charge and that is for the individual that came out to my house to do the Compression and Leak Down Test.

Here is the detailed list...
Initial Diagnosis - WRONG!

PARTS
Water Pump and Timing Belt Kit.......$....171.62
Thermostat...........................$.....32.99
G12 Coolant..........................$.....26.16
Washer...............................$......3.38
Switch (x2)..........................$.....71.33
Temp Sender..........................$.....31.52
Total (Includes S&H & Tx)............$....337.00


Correct Diagnosis

PARTS
Cylinder Head........................$.....90.00
Cylinder Head Complete Rebuild.......$....470.77
Ignition Coil Pack w/Control Module..$....104.74
Spark Plug Set.......................$.....26.65
Ignition Wire Set....................$.....63.36
Cover................................$.....19.83
Funnel...............................$.....10.36
G12 Coolant..........................$.....17.00
Cap Screws...........................$......1.64
Seal.................................$......5.18
Total (Includes S&H & Tx)............$....809.53

COMPUTER SOFTWARE
VAG-COM..............................$....359.50
Bentley On-Line Subscription.........$.....79.95
Total (Includes S&H & Tx)............$....439.45

TOOLS
Cylinder Head Bolt Kit...............$.....33.75
Head Gasket Aligner..................$.....35.51
Aligner Complement...................$.....10.67
Poly Drive Bit Socket................$.....23.57
Connect Rod Support..................$.....42.84
Timing Belt Tensioner................$.....16.20
T-HDI Hex Key........................$.....21.94
Universal Joints (x2)................$......9.97
Extensions (x2)......................$.....11.06
Compression Tester...................$.....32.91
Total (Includes S&H & Tx)............$....238.42

LABOR
Compression and Leak Down Test.......$....50.00

Grand Total WO/VAG-COM & WP/TB.......$ 1,102.83
Grand Total WO/WP & TB...............$ 1,542.28
Final Grand Total....................$ 1,879.28

The Final Grand Total is about half of what the dealer quoted and was almost what my BG repair shop quoted. So with all this done and said, I feel I broke even for my first cylinder head gasket replacement.

The head has been removed; Top pic shows the lower block as it appeared after I got the head off; middle pic is the old head and the bottom pic is the lower block after I wiped it up with paper towels.

Tomorrow I will be removing the old gasket residue from the block and cleaning the intake manifolds and bolting them to the replacement head.

[D2Beetle]

Well I ran into another glitch; the exhaust manifold studs are not in the replacement head, so I have to find a way to get replacements or get the ones out of my old head.

Any one have any suggestions?

[gilligan]

Double nut them and try to get them out, or buy new ones.

[Porkchop]

Originally Posted by D2Beetle

I believe the part that you are looking for is number 5; it is a gasket...

Incidentally, #5 is the same as #2... and costs less than $1 most places. It also replaces the same as the cap - just twist and it comes out (take the hose off first...)

[D2Beetle]

Well I got the exhaust manifold studs out, by double nutting them and I was surprised as to how easy they came out. I also got the exhaust manifold and lower half of the intake manifold cleaned off/out; now all I have to do is buff them off using emery cloth and they will be ready to mount on the new head.

[D2Beetle]

Well the new head is on, but the timing marks are off. So this week I'll be getting the timing set where it needs to be and if all goes well my NB will be up and running this weekend.

[Tesla]

You are rocking man! Is it running?!
Beep Beep

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by Tesla

You are rocking man! Is it running?!
Beep Beep

Nope, not yet, but it should be and so I thought it would be this weekend; however I think those at CarQuest are trying to be funny...

Does anything in this photo look odd?

[Buglover]

Looks like they gave ya one for an 1600 cc engine to me.

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by Buglover

Looks like they gave ya one for an 1600 cc engine to me.

Well, they might have...

I am ready to put the upper intake on it and make my first attempt to start it; however the gasket that was in the kit is to small and seeing how this is the last step I was an unhappy camper. All of the other gaskets that were in this kit fit perfectly, why is it the last one does not? Well I ordered another gasket from German Auto parts and I'm waiting for it to come in.

In the mean time there was another gasket in the kit that I could not identify where it went (I was going to ignore it) and when I looked at the assembly view of the intake manifold I found it (#11). So I decided to change it. I then notice that the vacuum hose was dry rotted and cracked (#9); It is a short hose (may be 10-12 cm in total length) with a 90 degree bend in the middle of it, so regular hoses kink and will not work. I called the dealer hoping they would have one; the parts guy could not find the part listing so I had to bring the throttle body in with the attached hose to the dealer for them to identify it.

Needless to say it took the guy almost a half hour to identify the hose and he had to use the partial, barely visible part number that was still on the hose.

[Tesla]

How did the gasket thing went? I plan on removing my intake manifold for polishing and I wander what gaskets should I replace?

1. Throttle Body Gasket ( what part#?)
2. Manifold gasket ( what part#?)
3. Any other things I should do or replace while I have manifold off?

Thanks

[D2Beetle]

Originally Posted by Tesla

How did the gasket thing went? I plan on removing my intake manifold for polishing and I wander what gaskets should I replace?

1. Throttle Body Gasket ( what part#?)
2. Manifold gasket ( what part#?)
3. Any other things I should do or replace while I have manifold off?

Thanks

I got the right gasket ($5.40) when I went to the dealer to get the vacuum hose that I ordered; however I found out that you cannot order just the vacuum hose, you have to order the assembly; parts 7, 8, 9 and 12 and dealer cost is $94.00 I told the parts guy I'm not doing that and walked out.

So I went to Lowes last night and got a brass fitting and I'm going to make a Manufacturing Engineering Change. I'll post photos when I'm done.

I purchased a cylinder head rebuild kit from Car Quest that came with all of the gaskets, so I'm not certain what the individual part numbers would be. I would check all of the vacuum hoses; some are rubber or cloth/rubber and some are a rigid plastic tube. Pay special attention to #10 it is very short connecting hose (3-4 cm) that uses the crimped style hose clamps and it is clamped to the rigid plastic tubing.

[D2Beetle]

Well I got it all back together, but I have not got it running yet. I made a mistake putting the tensioner on and that caused the timing to be off. So my younger brother and I spent all after noon trying to get it set back to where it was when I started (see post #51). Every time we think we got it, when we check, it is still off.

Well we quit for today and I see no reason why the problem cannot be resolved tomorrow.

[D2Beetle]

Well here are the revised timing marks... If I am within the block TDC mark and my original timing mark, what would be the consequences of leaving it where it currently is? Well I decided that enough is enough and turned the crank with a wrench a dozen times or so and then checked the timing again. Well the pulley mark moved to the opposite side of the block timing mark and I had no idea what this meant, but decided to attempt a start anyway. The timing has always been an issue for some reason.

Anyway, it started on the first crank and it is now running!!!

I have a video of the first restart and here is YouTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69Vwuo1y8xE. The smoke and melting smell is over powering so I have decided not to drive it to work yet; however after the valve noises settled down I drove it around the block and it was SWEET!!! All I have to do now is put the hood on it and give it a wash and wax and I'll RnR to work the end of this week.

[D2Beetle]

Well I have been driving it for a month now and it has been fantastic ... my mpg is up from what it was; before I averaged 26/27 in mixed driving and now I'm averaging 30/31. I have not had the chance to go on any long interstate trips, so I'm curious what my mileage will be after doing 70/75 on a full tank.

So to mark this moment I took a pic of the odometer. Now it is time for wash, wax and pics!! And yes that is a 117 miles and the tank is still almost full!