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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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My wife took our Beetle to work yesterday and the same thing happened when she tried to leave. Started up, ran a few seconds then conked out. The air intake came off on the engine side! It was no fun to put back on. Had to remove a few things and even then there is little room. But that was it. Ran fine after that. The whole air intake is so cramped I think a few years of it being fooled with for air filter replacement (also no fun) could have loosened mine and then it just came off. Weird since the hose clamp was still on. Hope yours is as easy as mine to remedy.
ET |
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Based on what you describe, I'd check out the following:
Fuel pump - does is have good flow and pressure? The fuel pumps for the most part are pretty good across the board, but at the same time, I've replace a few here and there over the years. Un-metered air (intake leak) - Not much as far as the intake goes on a 2.0L engine. The vacuum line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator. The rubber hose from the oil cap housing to the intake tends to rot. Intake hose from filter box to throttle body coming loose. MAF - I've seen a few cars that will idle like crap (or not at all) and you have to blip the throttle to keep it running. Replace the MAF and go for a scary test drive and the car gets better and back to normal after a couple of miles. I think you can remove the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and then the engine will idle (bumps the fuel pressure up). As for the fuel filter, they are listed as "lifetime". Having said that, I think after 100,000 miles one would be wise to replace the fuel filter. I don't think I've ever seen a clogged fuel filter or one cause any problems.
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Thanks that is alot of help, Ill be checking on those this weekend! |
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The injectors are timed, and only open when the ECM tells them to. This means unlike the old CIS days the injectors for a time may be completely inactive. That period of time, or duration, gets shorter and the period of action increases, over a plot of the engine RPM. So if you don't have enough pressure in the system, it may run at lower rpms, but stumble and refuse to go anywhere fast at higher rpms because the engine requests more fuel duration at higher rpms and without the correct fuel pressure or delivery the injectors will not provide enough fuel to atomize or even fire at all. Hope this helps! EDIT: Check the injector harness for damage too. Wiring on VWs is prone to insulation cracking.
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You can find me in the Vortex. Bye. |
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Unfortunately it isnt my answer, I just checked my tube today ![]() |
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