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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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I have a 99 2.0 95,000 miles that has been sitting for almost 3 years. It was running perfect when I last drove it. About a year ago I had to drive it about 2 miles and it just died at a light. I was able to start it and get it going buy keeping the revs up. So, its been sitting since b/c I got it towed back after I got where I was going.
I have already replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter,battery,spark plugs,oil and filter and emptied out as much of the old gas as I could and added probably about 5 gallons of fresh gas. I am pretty sure its the speed sensor or camshaft sensor. Any suggestions or ideas would be great b/c I dont have a code scanner and since its dead I cant even get it to an auto parts store to use theirs. Thanks ![]() |
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I have a '98 that has been sitting for about three months and it needs a head gasket; I started it yesterday and it ran fine (as I anticipated) for about 15 minutes. I wanted to circulate the oil one last time before I tear it down this weekend. Then it began to act as you described.
So to make a long story short (I was diagnosing my problem with my Bentley manual)... 1) Check fuse 28 (fuel pump) 2) Check the output stage of the coil (ignition system) 3) Check the Motronic ECM (I have no idea what it is) I'll keep reading if I come across anything else I'll let you know. |
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well now that i think of it you may have snapped a timing belt...that could be a reason for a no start/no run.
ECU will be fine just sitting. you need to make sure your getting fuel, air and spark pull a plug wire and make sure youg getting spark you can pull one of the fuel lines to see if it is pumping fuel and air is hard to check for but the timing belt could be a cause for no air |
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It starts but instantly dies out as soon as I let go of the key. I am getting fuel,air and spark. The timing belt is still there. Im still thinking its the computer,camshaft sensor or speed sensor. This really sucks I need to get this thing running buy june 1 and am about to start throwing more parts at it but money is tight and parts as we all know are expensive
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The belt doesn't have to be broken. It could just be missing teeth and actually not moving at all. Not a good sign. That's what mine did and I ended up with bent valves
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__________________
It's LN'z BUG rhymes with Ellen's bug The witch is back Be yourself. No one can ever tell you you're doing it wrong.-James Leo Herlihy My boy Chip | Chips garage mates Hazard switch replacement | Heater control lightbulb replacement
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here is how i would narrow things down.
Check Spark- Pull a plug and see if you can see it spark, or hold the plug wire....you pick. Id personally pull the plug Check for fuel- Pull a fuel line to the Fuel rail and see if she pumps there, all 4 injectors wont go bad all at 1 time Check for Air- Make sure your timing belt is still intact. Rarely do they jump enough teeth to make the car not run at all. I think you also have a good idea on the cam position sensor. also look in to the crank position sensor. |
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I have a suggestion. If you just start to remove parts and replace them because you have a feeling they could be the problem you will wind up spending a ton of money and still have a broken car. It will probably be cheaper to buy a cheap OBD II code scanner and start there.
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So I bought a scanner. This is what I got...
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low 17988 P1580 Throttle Actuator B1 Malfunction 17645 P1237 Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ. 17646 P1238 Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ. 17647 P1239 Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ. 17648 P1240 Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ. 16725- P0341 Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ Range/Performance Any ideas? Anybody every have similar codes? |
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So I cleared the codes. Removed the manifold cleaned up the TB it was bad but not to bad. But it still didnt start. So I scanned the codes and this is all that I got....
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low Is this an internally bad TB(sensor or plastic gears)? |
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