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Old 07-04-2009, 08:59 PM
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Default Sucessful AC compressor DIY

This job is not as hard as you might think given the prices quoted: $1500 at a dealer, $1100 at a local shop. I think all that was wrong was the compressor clutch, because when the AC was turned on a loud knocking would come from the compressor. You could see the whole accessory belt jumping around, so even though the AC worked to make cold air, there was no way to really use it. Even though the only problem might have been a clutch, I got a new compressor + other tidbits online for ~$300.

After removing the alternator, and accesory belt + tensioner, and the compressor is easy to get at. One thing to be aware of: you have to pry out both the alternator and the compressor after removing the bolts, so have a small pry bar handy. I could not get the fittings off the receiver/dryer, so I skipped that.

The difficult part of the job setting up the system to pull a vacuum for re-charging. I got a Harbor Freight gauge set for about $35 (on sale, puls 20% coupon), and borrowed a lab vac pump from work. The HF gauge set has 4 ports but only 3 hoses, so it took some figuring on how to make it work. I included a photo with the details labelled in case it helps someone else. It is almost impossible to find fittings/adpaters with Acme threads (used on R134a), but with a can tap and a charging hose with a quick disconnect on one end and can tap on the other, I put together a good set-up. The HF gauge set has "blind" connectors on both sides with Q/C fittings to store the hoses. I removed the low press side fitting, drilled it out, and used it to connect the charging hose to the vac pump (study the pic to see this).

I was worried the low press switch would prevent the AC compressor from coming on when charging, but no problems there. Following some internet advice, I first added some Freon with the car off, then started up the engine & AC. This technique gave about 70psi on the low side initially. Apparently, the compressor should never be run dry.

Adding Freon takes some time, but I was able to get what I think is the correct amount (~700g). At idle, I saw 35 psi on the low press side, and 225 psi on the high side. Does anyone know if this is correct? THe Haynes manual doesn't say, and I searched high and low on the internet without finding anything. AC blows cold, though!
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Old 07-04-2009, 09:44 PM
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Did you add Volkswagen Golf IV 1.8T > Climate Control > Air Conditioning > ES#261761 Must be added when any air conditioning system is opened up, and refridgerant is lost. - ECS Tuning Inc ?
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:10 AM
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Yes, I added the PAG oil. The Haynes manual said to pour the oil out of the old compressor, measure that, and add the same amount to the new. But, hardly any came out of the old comrpessor, just a couple spoonfuls. Maybe that's why it was making a knocking sound. The instructions with the new compressor said to discard any oil that came with it, and add new. So I measured what came out of the new compressor (about 1/2 cup), and added that amount of new PAG 46.
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:29 AM
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Whew... I was concerned. I know of more than one person to ruin a new compressor when they forgot to add the oil.
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:26 AM
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Default SD7V16 oil capacity and suction/discharge pressures

To answer my own questions:

The Sanden website shows a performance curve for the SD7V16, where the suction side is 296 KPa (28.4 psi) and discharge is at 1.67 MPa (242 psi). So my numbers of 35psi/225 psi are in the ballpark.

Also, I found the oil capacity to be 4.5 oz, which is a little over 1/2 cup.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:00 PM
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Did you you collect the old refridgerant or just let it escape into the air? I am about to replace a compressor as well but would like to do it legally if possible. Thanks
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USF_Goat View Post
Did you you collect the old refridgerant or just let it escape into the air? I am about to replace a compressor as well but would like to do it legally if possible. Thanks
I took it to a local shop to have the R134a recovered. $30, worth it for the environment.
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:35 PM
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Yea, definitely. Just replaced my mothers compressor today. It was not too bad except for two things:

1. The hose fitting were extremely tight and were hard to get to, so I had to disconnect the hose from the water pump.

2. Putting oil in the new compressor was a nightmare. The fill hole in the new compressor only took 2oz, so I cranked the impeller hoping to free some room up. The hose fitting holes were still sealed with rubber plugs at this point. All I did was build pressure in the system and when I took the bolt back off the oil exploded everywhere. I didnt know exactly how much was left in the compressor so I had to guess how much to pour in the intake and exhaust holes to get the 4.5oz inside. I should be pretty close.

I am curious, what techniques have other people used to put oil in your compressors?
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USF_Goat View Post

2. Putting oil in the new compressor was a nightmare. The fill hole in the new compressor only took 2oz, so I cranked the impeller hoping to free some room up. The hose fitting holes were still sealed with rubber plugs at this point. All I did was build pressure in the system and when I took the bolt back off the oil exploded everywhere.
That is weird. I just poured the oil in through the fill hole with no problem. I could have added more than I did - there was no issue with the space filling up. Maybe the compressor already had a full charge of oil in it? Did you drain out what was there (if anything) to start with? You did open that large bolt in the middle of the compressor to add the oil, right?
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:54 AM
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I wanted to throw some quick details in for anyone else attempting this repair. This was one of the first threads that popped up when I searched.

This is how I did it on a 2000 2.0l automatic trans New Beetle.


1) I disconnected the battery ground cable. This is critical.

2) I removed the engine cover

3) I disconnected the alternator sensor harness and power harness as well as the small retainer clip that attaches the wiring to the alternator. I cleaned up the power cable as it had some corrosion.

4) I un-clipped the plastic retainer that holds the coolant line in place. This coolant line runs directly behind the compressor and makes it difficult to get to the 6mm allen bolts holding the compressor lines to the compressor.

5) Using a 16mm box wrench I swiveled the belt tensioner and removed the belt.

6) I unbolted the alternator (2 13mm bolts I believe) and using a large crowbar gently pried it away from the bracket and removed it. VW likes to make them a tight fit. You may need to swivel the belt tensioner in order to get at the top bolt (or you can remove it). I then loosened (but didn't remove) the top bolt for the compressor (16mm I think?).

7) I got under the car and loosened the plastic splash guard on the passenger side. I didn't have to completely remove it.

8) While under the car there is a metal bracket with 2 17mm bolts holding it to the engine block. This is the same bracket as in step 4. It holds the coolant line in place. Not sure why 17mm bolts were required but whatever... Unbolt it and push it out of your way.

9) Still under the car, I loosened the lower ac compressor bolt.

10) Make a note of how the high/low pressure AC lines are routed and in regards to the coolant hose. One of them goes underneath it. Push the coolant hose to the right so it is pinched in place by the oil filter. In reality this line should be disconnected but I'm not in the mood to drain and refill the cooling system.

11) Move the alternator wiring to the right and out of your way.

12) Unplug the ac compressor wiring harness.

13) Using a 6mm allen bit and 3/8" socket loosen the bolts for the two lines and then remove the hoses. I like to put aluminum foil over them after removal to keep dirt out and reduce the amount of moisture getting to the desiccate. Since this car only needs to last maybe 2 more years I am not replacing a lot of the other components you would normally replace.

14) Using a large crowbar gently pry the compressor free.

15) Re-installation is essentially the reverse of removal. I like to use emery cloth or sandpaper to smooth down the surfaces where the alternator and ac compressor meet the brackets. Along with a little bit of grease it makes reinstall much easier. Corrosion makes for a tight fit.

Vacuum out the system for a minimum of 1 hour and make sure it holds vacuum. Refill with 700 grams (about 2 small cans) of R-134a while the car is running and the AC on full blast, windows down.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forcedfx View Post
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I wanted to throw some quick details in for anyone else attempting this repair. This was one of the first threads that popped up when I searched.

This is how I did it on a 2000 2.0l automatic trans New Beetle.


1) I disconnected the battery ground cable. This is critical.

2) I removed the engine cover

3) I disconnected the alternator sensor harness and power harness as well as the small retainer clip that attaches the wiring to the alternator. I cleaned up the power cable as it had some corrosion.

4) I un-clipped the plastic retainer that holds the coolant line in place. This coolant line runs directly behind the compressor and makes it difficult to get to the 6mm allen bolts holding the compressor lines to the compressor.

5) Using a 16mm box wrench I swiveled the belt tensioner and removed the belt.

6) I unbolted the alternator (2 13mm bolts I believe) and using a large crowbar gently pried it away from the bracket and removed it. VW likes to make them a tight fit. You may need to swivel the belt tensioner in order to get at the top bolt (or you can remove it). I then loosened (but didn't remove) the top bolt for the compressor (16mm I think?).

7) I got under the car and loosened the plastic splash guard on the passenger side. I didn't have to completely remove it.

8) While under the car there is a metal bracket with 2 17mm bolts holding it to the engine block. This is the same bracket as in step 4. It holds the coolant line in place. Not sure why 17mm bolts were required but whatever... Unbolt it and push it out of your way.

9) Still under the car, I loosened the lower ac compressor bolt.

10) Make a note of how the high/low pressure AC lines are routed and in regards to the coolant hose. One of them goes underneath it. Push the coolant hose to the right so it is pinched in place by the oil filter. In reality this line should be disconnected but I'm not in the mood to drain and refill the cooling system.

11) Move the alternator wiring to the right and out of your way.

12) Unplug the ac compressor wiring harness.

13) Using a 6mm allen bit and 3/8" socket loosen the bolts for the two lines and then remove the hoses. I like to put aluminum foil over them after removal to keep dirt out and reduce the amount of moisture getting to the desiccate. Since this car only needs to last maybe 2 more years I am not replacing a lot of the other components you would normally replace.

14) Using a large crowbar gently pry the compressor free.

15) Re-installation is essentially the reverse of removal. I like to use emery cloth or sandpaper to smooth down the surfaces where the alternator and ac compressor meet the brackets. Along with a little bit of grease it makes reinstall much easier. Corrosion makes for a tight fit.

Vacuum out the system for a minimum of 1 hour and make sure it holds vacuum. Refill with 700 grams (about 2 small cans) of R-134a while the car is running and the AC on full blast, windows down.
Thanks to the OP and to forcedfx for the clear directions as I will tackle this issue soon on my '99 AEG
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:48 PM
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Subscribing to thread. I need to do this.

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Old 06-25-2013, 08:01 PM
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Go Al! Cup will live AND have AC? That would be awesome


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