Spark plugs

[mirciov]

Can somebody post step by step instructions on how to change the spark plugs, with pictures if posible? No shop i kn.ow will do it for me.

[Big_V]

I don't have any pictures, but the process isn't as bad as you think if you have the right tools.

I have a 2000 Beetle, so it still has an ignition pack and plug wires. I understand that newer models have a coil on plug design so the wires don't need to be replaced. If you do have plug wires, I'd suggest replacing them if you have more than 80,000 miles on the set of wires.

Essential tools - get a set of spark plug boot pliers (about $13). Buy the ones that really look like pliers, not the cheap plastic ones that look like tweezers. This tool is essential if you are not planning to replace the wires. If you just try pulling the wires off by hand, you will buy a new set of wires anyway.

Get a spark plug socket with a wobble joint and 5" extension (bout $8). This will help get the ratchet head clear of the manifold.

I use dielectric grease (on the part of the plug that connects to the wires)and anti-seize coupound on the plug threads. I also use Mechanix gloves to prevent busted knuckles.

Now comes the fun part. If you have never changed the plugs in a car before, you may want to start by drinking a a couple of beers. You may also want to send the wife and kids to the movies. There will be cursing. When you are experienced, this process take about an hour. If it is your first time, plan on it taking two hours.

Step 1 - Remove the plastic engine cover. If it is dirty/oily around the plugs and you have access to a power washer, you should clean the engine to make sure that dirt won't drop in the cylinder when you remove the plugs. Make sure the engine is cool to the touch before you wash it and give it plenty of time to dry (so water won't drop in the engine either). If you are impatient (like I am), it may be time for another beer. As an alternative, you can use pressurized air to clean around the spark plug holes.

Step 2 - Use the spark plug boot pliers to remove the wire from the top of the plug. Make sure you get the pliers as far down (i.e., on the metal part) of the boot as you can. Use gentle force to wiggle the boot back and forth if it doesn't come off immediately. Only remove the boot for one plug at a time so there is no confusion as to which wire goes to which plug.

Step 3 - Push the spark plug socket down on the plug and turn it counter-clockwise (righty - tighty, lefty - loosy). It may feel like you are going to break something off at first, but it should come loose eventually. Examine the electodes for discoloration and/or carbon deposits. Throw the old plug away.

Step 4 - Get the new plug out of the box and put some dielecric grease on the end that connects to the plug wire. I also put a little anti-seize on the threads. You don't have to set the gap with Bosch or NGK mutiple electrode plugs, they come preset from the factory.

Step 5 - Put the new plug in the socket and guide it into the hole. Tighten the plug until firm, but do not overtighten. Most plug manufactuers recommend between 15 and 20 ft-lbs of torque, which is snug plus about 1/16to 1/8 turn.

Step 6 - Reconnect the plug wire (using the pliers). Make sure you feel it snap into place and check it with a slight tug to make sure it doesn't come off.

Step 7 - Repeat steps 2-6 for each cylinder. I know it seems like you cant get access to the midde two cyliners, but the are acutally angled out so you can get a socket on them. You can also reach under the manifold with your free hand to guide the socket into the hole.

Step 8 - Start the car and listen to it purr.

Step 9 - Are there really only three beers left in the six pack? Might as well finish it off...

[The Cheat]

addition to cylinders 2 and 3:

if you unclip the injector harness from cylinders 1 and 4 (the two visible injectors), it is MUCH easier to work with the inner cylinders.

also, a swivel (or wobble) socket isn't necessary, just a 10" extension was about the only other tool i needed.

thank you for mentioning the pliers--i get blue in the face with people who argue with me over needing them.

ps: don't forget the anti-sieze for the threads!

other than that, good work big v.

[mirciov]

Thank you! Will do next weekend.

[wawalker]

I just did my wife's 2.0L Jetta for the 2nd time and I also found it handy to remove the 3 bolts in the secondary air pump bracket so I could access the coilpack and coil end of the ignition wires much better--I just tilted the pump forward a bit after removing the hose that goes back to the manifold and coilpack access got very easy. Been a while since I did a NB so maybe that bracket is in a different spot?