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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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Have you replaced your coolant temperature sensor? The new ones are green topped. The old ones fail and can cause problems and throw codes. Cheap part-should be under $30 even at the dealer. I would try that first before a thermostat.
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The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI
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Durr. I knew I was forgetting something. Just replaced that a month or two ago. It did idle smoother after doing that, so I know the last one wasn't the greatest despite it being green topped like the new one.
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BUMP:
Okay, so a little bit of an update. I've had the thermostat replaced. No change on anything Coil pack was replaced. P2181 disappeared after chaning this. P0420 was still plauging me. Replaced CAT after running something over. P0420 comes back from time to time, and my MPGs are still low. Thoughts? I'm going to clean the MAF next week. Anyone have any input on the post cat O2 sensor? Does it affect fuel economy, or is that the job of the pre cat O2 sensor? Since the CAT was just replaced, I am thinking the O2 sensor might be going bad since that P0420 comes back from time to time. CEL is off, and has been for some time. Depending on when it is scanned, I might find the P0420 code. |
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i had this code on a neon today, i replaced the first o2 sensor (upstream if you will). this is the one BEFORE the cat.
it cleared it right out.
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rotors to motors...we'll fix anything...except a toyota. 2.0S jetta glx-i...13.765@105.6 |
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The issue you describe can be caused by a leak in a vaccuum line.
Based on the size of the leak and the current temperature, its very likely that the car would behave erradically. The list of maintenance you have done on your v-dub infers that a lot of vaccuum lines were moved, or disconnected in the process. The most likely area where vaccuum lines can get baked and crack is the area between the battery and the engine block (in a U.S. 2.0litre) |
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I guess I left one thing out. After the coil pack was replaced, the running rough while cold or on a damp morning went away.
Now I'm just trying to straighten out the P0420 code and the crappy fuel economy. Other than that, the bug is running better than ever. ![]() Just to give you an idea, I get around 250-270 miles a tank, mostly highway... when I do the math, I get about 23 mpg consistently. If I do a total highway trip, I MIGHT see 26 mpg. |
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When you figure out what's causing your crappy fuel economy, please post it. We've got one that gets just about exactly the same mileage.
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'02 & '05 Acura RSX Dodge Cummins, Ford Ranger M151 Ford "Drive less, worry more. It's cheaper." |
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Thermostat has been replaced.
Temp Sensor has been replaced. Plugs have been replaced. Wires have been replaced. Coil Pack has been replaced. Cat has been replaced. I feel like I'm heading toward a dead end, but something has got to be out of whack for me to get 23 mpg highway. |
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Quote:
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cat is an aftermarket one with the proper O2 sensor bung.
when i clean the MAF on monday, i will look the vacuum lines over.. is there a good schematic of them here somewhere? and unfortunately i do not have a vag-com... yet... maybe soon though? |
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Check the list of Vag's in your area might get lucky..?? I have not found one yet.... Someone else might have though..?? Chime-in anyone... There are a number which i have replaced though. Intake manifold to fpr and also under the intake plenum (between the intake and the valve cover) Found these cracked from heat.... GL ...KP...
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hmm... okay. i'll definitely have to scope them all out with my dad... I'm hoping that just cleaning the MAF will help with the fuel econ...
as for the P0420, it hasn't shown back up after well over a week, and my commute includes at least 15 minutes on the highway, so I know i'm doing full drive cycles. |
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