Still leaking coolant!!!

[The Cheat]

Originally Posted by guitstik

While you have the head off and are getting machine work done to it, you might as well have them open up the combustion chambers and install bigger valves.

true that.

[middknight1]

i would love to spend the extra cash that i don't have and do that. i really really would not to mention throw on a turbo with the C2 motorsports programming and a pretty 3" exhaust. unfortunately i can only dream and replace OEM at this point. its called playing it safe for now. good idea though! i like your style!

[middknight1]

but if i was to have larger valves put on, what size do y'all recommend?

[DZLBUG]

talk to Frank.

[middknight1]

i am thinking of just going ahead and buying a reman head. i am going to have this one tested to check it against the Bentley to see if it is still in specs. if not def just shelling out the cashola for a reman.

[DZLBUG]

From where? I know of no good reman places that will give you the quality of Frank's work for the price.

[middknight1]

haven't found a place yet. i still have research to do and look into shipping out to Frank's. i was gonna make the call today but i decided to take the day away from the car.

[DZLBUG]

I can tell you now that whatever shipping costs you will pay, they will be worth it. Frank can send you a shipping label at his discounted rate. Also keep in mind that all of your reassembly parts will come back in one box with the head. The one-stop shopping with Frank will save you time and money on shipping costs as well.

[middknight1]

right on. i will give him a buzz tomorrow and give him the low down on what i got.

[middknight1]

called frank, he is sending the quote out via email tomorrow and mailing the label on out to me. sounds like i should have called him sooner and saved some money on the hardware replacement side but, live and learn.

[middknight1]

update on work...
so the head was sent to Frank. should be getting ready to leave Missouri and come back to California today or tomorrow.
he didn't recommend doing anything to the size of the valves due to no upgrades for performance done at this time. i really would since now is the perfect time to do everything but lack of funds from work prohibit this. replacing all vacuum lines, spark plugs, ignition coil, added oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, volt, the breather hose from valve cover to intake man, oil dipstick, got the r32 pedals and dead pedal, and a stubby antenna.

things already done before timing belt, water pump, thermostat and housing.

sorry no pics just time flies away from us sometimes when you have a 4 and 5 yr old. i can snap some now of the block and head when she comes back in.

does anyone have a recommended way to clean the block in prep for the head re-mating? how important is it to have or make some guide pins when setting the head back on?

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

How about the o-ring that is on the metal coolant pipe on the front of the engine? It should be somewhere under the thermostat area.

Nice photo avitar....Does nt take much eh......lol....

[DZLBUG]

Originally Posted by middknight1

does anyone have a recommended way to clean the block in prep for the head re-mating? how important is it to have or make some guide pins when setting the head back on?

3M Scotchbrite wheels that you can chuck into your cordless drill. Comes in a pack of 3, I think I used the medium grit one. It doesn't need to be spotless, clean it up a little bit but don't go crazy. Shoot a little brake cleaner on the mating surface of the head before you drop it on there, it will likely have a coating of oil on it when you get it back. As for guide pins, I cut off the heads of 2 of my old head bolts, then cut a slot into the top so that they can be unscrewed with a screwdriver. Works like a charm and its free. 10 minutes with a hacksaw and you're ready to go.

Make sure when you reinstall the new water pump, lube the o-ring with coolant to keep it from getting pinched or rolled. Also make sure the mating surface on the block is clean and burr free.

[middknight1]

Originally Posted by DZLBUG

3M Scotchbrite wheels that you can chuck into your cordless drill. Comes in a pack of 3, I think I used the medium grit one. It doesn't need to be spotless, clean it up a little bit but don't go crazy. Shoot a little brake cleaner on the mating surface of the head before you drop it on there, it will likely have a coating of oil on it when you get it back. As for guide pins, I cut off the heads of 2 of my old head bolts, then cut a slot into the top so that they can be unscrewed with a screwdriver. Works like a charm and its free. 10 minutes with a hacksaw and you're ready to go.

Make sure when you reinstall the new water pump, lube the o-ring with coolant to keep it from getting pinched or rolled. Also make sure the mating surface on the block is clean and burr free.

did exactly that on the wp when i put her in. i have some 150 grit paper laying around so will use small pieces and some elbow grease to clean. that is what i was thinking of doing for guide pins. just cutting up 2 or 3 of the old head bolts and using those. still going to get those scotchbrite wheels for the exhaust manifold and a few other things.

can't wait to get her up and running again, been too long since i have been able to drive her! going on almost 2 months now. the longest part has been the wait for parts, tools, little things.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by middknight1

did exactly that on the wp when i put her in. i have some 150 grit paper laying around so will use small pieces and some elbow grease to clean. that is what i was thinking of doing for guide pins. just cutting up 2 or 3 of the old head bolts and using those. still going to get those scotchbrite wheels for the exhaust manifold and a few other things.

can't wait to get her up and running again, been too long since i have been able to drive her! going on almost 2 months now. the longest part has been the wait for parts, tools, little things.

I would not use sandpaper on the block or the head...Use the Scotchbrite wheels as you don't want deep scratches on the head or block these could and will cause leaks..GL...KP...

[middknight1]

Originally Posted by Canadianbugin

I would not use sandpaper on the block or the head...Use the Scotchbrite wheels as you don't want deep scratches on the head or block these could and will cause leaks..GL...KP...

i understand that. as long as you are not using anything that is more course than 100 grit should be fine. per bentley. the head was not done by me. taken care of by Frank's TDI. thanks to everyone that recommended him, dzlbug!

[D2Beetle]

I used these on my AEG block, only took three and worked like a charm. I have to get some for my 1.8, which I'm getting set to begin again.

[middknight1]

thank you! i used the 150 before i got any responses back on recommendations. used my Bentley that night and saw i could use the 150 that i had laying around. i will go back though with a more fine grit just to make sure everything is nice and smooth. still getting the last of the parts in, mainly hardware...head will arrive the 18th but won't be working on her this weekend. vacation planned. might tinker on her sunday. getting all the nasty oil/sludgy build up and residue removed from the parts that i have taken off. putting on those sweet r32 pedals that were on sale from ecs tuning.

[middknight1]

so, anything look.....maybe, off to anyone? notice the center ports on the manifold? should i be concerned about this? would attempting to reshape be possible? i have the tools to slightly reshape but i dont have the tools if i punch a hole through the welds.

[D2Beetle]

Where they like that originally or did you do something?