Engine noisey on startup - engine flush?

[archiebug]

My '00 64k 2.0 NB chatters from the lifters on startup, this goes away in a minute or two. It is however quite loud during this, it does vary as well, some days its loud, other times it hardly does it?

Should I run an engine flush through to see if it helps it? I've heard good and bad things about engine flushing, is there any chance it could damage my engine?

Whats the best engine flush to use (i'm in the UK) I've heard good things about the Wurth product, any other better ones?

[simonsi]

If the lifter seals are allowing leakdown then flushing won´t solve that - and there is no proper oil circulation into and out of the lifters anyway, they are a hydraulic dead-end so won´t see any actual flushing oil when/if you use it. Modern oils have largely made flushing oils redundant due to the detergent properties of the oil itself.

Pulling the cam and replacing the lifters is the only thing that will resolve it IMHO

I get a very little bit of chatter out of 1 lifter if Rose is left for more than 3-4 days without being run, gone in 10secs from starting though.

[archiebug]

Is it a difficult job pulling the cam etc?

Is it worth trying a flush first as it only costs pennies, I might get lucky?

TBH this issue started after I bought the car and VW serviced it filling it with Castrol 5W30 longlife oil, I've since serviced it again with thicker Quantum oil from VW but its still noisy.

Mine is quite loud, it chatters/knocks at idle for maybe 10 secs on startup from cold (never from warm) then quietens down, but if I rev it to around 3k rpm it sounds like and old escort/Ka for maybe a couple of minutes, if I keep it below 3k rpm it sounds fine, then after a couple of minutes all seems to sound as it should. Altho (perhaps this could be my paranoia!) I do think the engine is starting to sound a bit rougher generally.

Mind you if it does have a major fault at only 64k I am not impressed!

[simonsi]

Basically pull the timing belt, then the upper inlet manifold, then pull the rocker cover, then the cam bearing caps and lift the cam out, once that is clear the lifters can be pulled out and inspected/replaced as necessary, if not replacing all of them then the challenge is deciding which ones are weak/noisy.

Replacement, as they say, is the reverse of removal Best to move the crank so the pistons are half-way down the bores before putting the cam back, then time the cam, then move the crank to its mark, that way nothing should collide.

I´ve only ever tried flushing oil once in 30yrs and didn´t see any benefit, it doesn´t give much oil pressure as it is so thin (that was in 20W50 days)....

[Mr Maynard]

Just going to say it.. Flushing is NOT RECCOMENDED. Most Manufactures dont even suggest it.

[vdubbugman53]

i would not worry about a problem that is gone 10 seconds after start and never happens when warm. this is a very common issue and to my knowledge has never been known to be to terrible. i would leave it alone

[Canadianbugin]

I have an 98 2.0l NB with +280000kms and have the same lifter or follower noise....normal on any 8 valve i have ever had. If it bothers you like it does me its an easy afternoon job if your into doing it yourself...??

[SMG]

Seafoam it. I had great results using it in my old Tercel's oil for a few days before an oil change. The amount of carbon cleaned out the first time I used it was incredible.

It's not going to do anything for your lifters but it will do a great job of cleaning a lot of crap out of your motor.

They say 1/3 of the can in the oil, 1/3 through a vacuum hose while the car is running and 1/3 in the gas. I'd recommend 1/2 in the oil, 1/2 through a vacuum hose and full can in the gas. I had the best results using 2 cans and it's not expensive stuff at all.

[volkswagenb407]

HAHAHA SEAFOAM. love it. lost sight of my house, neighbors, an lost sight of girlfriend in the mix. like all else has said do a oil change about 50- 150 miles after. but do not exceed 500. iv seen some bad haps due to oil thining of the stuff

[archiebug]

Thanks for all the advice everyone - going to leave it for now, got a slightly more pressing problem with it in a burst steering rack!

Still now I've sourced the rack changing it myself is easy luckily

[Raterman]

Originally Posted by SMG

Seafoam it. I had great results using it in my old Tercel's oil for a few days before an oil change. The amount of carbon cleaned out the first time I used it was incredible.

It's not going to do anything for your lifters but it will do a great job of cleaning a lot of crap out of your motor.

They say 1/3 of the can in the oil, 1/3 through a vacuum hose while the car is running and 1/3 in the gas. I'd recommend 1/2 in the oil, 1/2 through a vacuum hose and full can in the gas. I had the best results using 2 cans and it's not expensive stuff at all.

What vacuum hose did you put it into? I was ready to take mine to the dealer to do a BG oil flush, but $150 seemed kind of extreme for what it is.

BG Products, Inc.

[SMG]

Take the hose off the FPR and use that. Make sure to put half a can in the oil though too and then do an oilchange soon after.

[Raterman]

cool...thanks!

[archiebug]

Bit of an update on this issue for me, I've actually traded the car in for a 2002 1.9TDi New Beetle got a VERY good trade-in price for it and with fuel costing around £1.20 a litre here in the UK I need the economy of the TDi!

Soooo the rattley tappets at start-up will soon be someone elses problem