Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonValleyVDub
Sorry, lol..but that's incorrect. They can't "burn out"...there's no filiment to do so. It's basically a gas filled capsule. Over time they can get dimmer, but it's generally the ballasts that go bad first. So unlike a Halogen "bulb", they don't just work one minute, then stop the next. Do they last forever?...of course not, but they do not burn out...which was my point.
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Alright kids, you've hit a soap box of mine.... look out LOL...
Not true. As someone who has multiple vehicles with HID kits, the bulbs can in fact work and then just stop working. Take my bug for instance. Saturday, the light worked. Sunday morning it did not. Before you chump me about the ballast, let me tell you it was the bulb.
Same thing happened on the last car I had with a kit.
The bulb color shifts over time. The bulb in the bug was a pink color all last week, and I recognized this as a sign that it was failing. The bulb in my other car turned a different shade of blue from the other one before it went a week later.
The bulbs may not have a physical filament, but they do have an invisible gas filament. Wear the gas out to the point where it can no longer conduct (or support conduction) from point A to point B and the bulb will fail. Just like a halogen bulb. In addition to wearing out the gas, if a contaminant gets on the bulb, it can create a point where the energy that is trying to make it from the cathode to the anode will jump to and scorch the bulb, truly "burning" it out in the sense that the bulb has a hot point on it that raises the temperature to a point where the gas and vaporized salt is no longer capable of supporting the arc to create the light. When this is the case, the bulb will usually ignite, burn for a period of time, and the just go out, until all of the salt (or enough to no longer carry current) is "scorched" to the side of the bulb... which is visible as a white, powdery substance on the bulb at the point of the contaminant. Restarting the system remedies the problem for a short period of time, but it is essentially a viscous cycle.
And on what basis do you believe that the ballasts go bad first? The ballast is the most reliable piece of equipment in the system. They do go bad, but they usually outlast the bulb. The principle is just the same as it is in fluorescent lighting. Ballasts last for years, bulbs don't. Running a bulb that is on the verge of failure for an extended period of time (supposing the bulb could remain at this tipping point for a duration of time) can cause premature ballast failure, but the bulbs don't usually spend much time at this tipping point.
Usually, there is some outside source that causes a ballast to fail, and that is what is to blame. A properly installed ballast will most definitely outlast the bulb.
Like I said, soap box... I've been round and round on this subject multiple times with multiple people on various forums (not just here on the org) and in person, discussing both HID and fluorescent lighting fixtures at my job.
I'm not trying to fuel an argument. This is one of those "just sayin'" type deals. Everyone seems to know how these things work and we have to remember that other people browse these forums looking for information, so, essentially, this forum is a reference tool. Don't you think we ought to be sure of something before we post it? We all make assumptions and mistakes, but this is the one subject where everyone seems to be an expert, and a lot of false information is posted based on biases and personal opinions.
And on the DRLs, if you hook up a kit and don't disable the vehicles standard DRL function, the bulbs will flicker. The DRLs on the bugs operate the bulbs at a slightly lower voltage than the switch does when it is placed on. Park your car in front of a wall at night, turn on the car and note the brightness with the switch off. Turn the switch on and note the slight increase in brightness. It isn't a huge difference, but it is enough to send the ballast into a tipsy. This WILL burn out the ballast first. In countries where DRLs are required by law, you will have to get creative in wiring the kit... or just always remember to turn your lights on

assuming you don't have to pass some MOT test where you have to prove you have a standalone DRL function...
and while I'm at it, it is a moot point... not a mute point
