How I Fixed my Stripped Beetle Oil Pan Plug

[intrudn86]

Originally Posted by HudsonValleyVDub

This is why I ignored him months ago. I highly recommend it!!

It only took one interaction with that guy and I was done. Put him in the ignore and moved on.

I really liked your write-up on this. Wish I would've seen it sooner. We just purchased a 2000 NB for my daughter, as her first car, and one of the many things my mechanic suggested doing was to replace the oil pan. The drain hole was also stripped. Had I seen this I might have tackled it myself. I also am now wishing I would've known about the choice of a steel oil-pan. Oh Well... live and learn I suppose.

[HudsonValleyVDub]

Originally Posted by intrudn86

It only took one interaction with that guy and I was done. Put him in the ignore and moved on.

I really liked your write-up on this. Wish I would've seen it sooner. We just purchased a 2000 NB for my daughter, as her first car, and one of the many things my mechanic suggested doing was to replace the oil pan. The drain hole was also stripped. Had I seen this I might have tackled it myself. I also am now wishing I would've known about the choice of a steel oil-pan. Oh Well... live and learn I suppose.

The important thing is that you got it taken care of. Being out on the road with no oil would put a damper on anyones day. God forbid it happens again, you'll be ready for it...lol. Good luck on your daughters new Bug.

[Cumulus]

So it looks like the new pan does not have the oil level sensor hole, any issue with that? Thanks for the instructions and photos!

[High Mileage Bug]

Hi all, been a while since I last posted. I just thought I'd follow up.

First, the fix has been working perfectly. No issues at all and no leaks. So this appears to be the permanent solution.

Second, someone PM'd me about removing the three horizontal bolts going in to the transmission and saying they had a hard time with them. The bolt heads should be clearly visible and easily accessible with the oil pan shield removed. There should not be any issue removing them with a box wrench or small socket.

[High Mileage Bug]

Originally Posted by Cumulus

So it looks like the new pan does not have the oil level sensor hole, any issue with that? Thanks for the instructions and photos!

My original oil pan didn't have that hole in it. No issues at all.

[RDRAIDR]

I replaced a dented, cracked and leaking alum. pan with the process and pan you posted here - worked great thanks for the info. There is one bolt of the three near the trans as I recall that is a bugger to get to, especially when going back together. A little patience, the right tools and hold you tongue just right (like Micheal Jordan) and you'll do just fine.

[johrho]

I just bought an '02 NB two weeks ago. My first bug since the '62 I drove back in the late '70's. Anywho - I took the wife to a movie last Sat night at the local theater. There is a sizable pothole in front of their dumpster and as the left front wheel went into the hole the oil pan scraped on a large piece of asphalt that was out of the hole on the right side. This happened at parking lot speed 5-7mph. I did purchase the alum/steel oil pan from GermanAutoParts.com. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. I can't speak highly enough about these guys. True professionals. The pan came with a new oil pickup tube. I also purchased the sealant and a new "O' ring for the pickup tube. Parts incl. shipping - $134.61. Five QT jug of synth oil + Fram extended guard (10k mile) filter incl. tax - $42.14. Total damage $176.75.

I too used a ball end allen wrench that I cut the short angle off of, in a 5mm 1/4" drive socket. Worked for all the recessed bolts, and most of the others. Had to use a shorter allen wrench in the 5mm socket for a couple that were pretty tight. The longer allen wrench was starting to torque. A 3/8" drive 16mm socket was all that was required for the 3 bolts to the tranny.

The sealant should be compliant with VW 705.705. I used Dirko HT. The sealant should be 2-3mm thick run in a continuous bead all around the pan just inside the bolt holes. Same same on the engine block. Assemble wet to wet.

All 20 pan bolts should then be started and loosely tightened lightly and diagonally. Then lightly tighten the 3 bolts to the tranny. Next torque tranny bolts to 45N.m. (33 ft/lbs). Tighten all 20 pan bolts diagonally to 15 N.m. (11 ft/lbs).

The full cure time for this particular sealant is approx. 2mm per day. You should wait at least 30 minutes after assembly to replace the oil. I am going to let mine cure for a full 24 hours. Hey it's Christmas Eve, and I ain't goin' anywhere.

Got about 4 hours in the whole process including singing up for this forum, reading profusely, parts research & ordering & actual maintenance. I have managed the whole process without uttering a single curse. You'd have to know me I guess, but what I am saying is: If I can do it, without cursing, you can too. Thanks for all the input from everybody. Hope my situation maybe of some help to someone else. Cheers!

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Excellent post, John. Maybe an inspiration to those hesitant or procrastinating doing this. I'm sure you know, but don't dump the whole five qts. Capacity is about 4.3 qts. After seven oil changes the eighth is free , unless you have to top off. I don't, 1 qt down at 10k miles.

Oh, and

Welcome to the Org!

And for you, a Newbie here -
Newbie Welcome Kit!

MORAV

[IndyTom]

I wonder why the Hybrid Oil Pan is over 2 1/2 times as much for the 1.8 engine than for the 2.0 engine? They should be pretty much the same except for the Oil line to the Turbo and that shouldn't cost that much more.

GermanAutoParts.com

[VDubYah]

Because it is a different pan. It has a connection for the turbo oil return machined in and comes with a new oil return line for the turbo in addition to the new pickup tube

[littlekelly]

My 98 Beetle has only had oil changes from 2 VW dealerships, since I purchased it with 15,000 miles. I have been getting it changed regularly at Camelback VW since 2006. Yesterday I took it in for an oil change. I was told by my service advisor that the tech recommended that I get the oil pan replaced at my next oil change. The reason I was given was that the aluminum oil pan is stripped. From what I understand, it gets stripped from overtightening the metal plug. Of course they didn't say that, only that my car is old and it happens. over time. My car is old, but I only have close to 85,000 miles, so that amounts to 2-3 oil changes per year. I have had my oil changed there for almost 6 years now, no one else has touched it. Would you say Camelback VW is somewhat to blame? The oil pan itself is in good conditio, no cracks, etc. They quoted me a price of $541.49, yikes!!!