How I Fixed my Stripped Beetle Oil Pan Plug

[High Mileage Bug]

Actually it was the aluminum oil pan that was stripped. Not the Steel plug.

So here is the story. We bought a 2001 VW Beetle with about 125K miles on it. It ran fine. Everything looked good. Got it home and noticed it was leaking oil leaving little black puddles on the driveway. So I figured maybe the oil pan drain bolt was loose. So I got a wrench and started tightening it. To my surprise it felt loose. So I thought "ah ha, this is the problem. I'll just tighten it up and..." and the drain bolt just kept on turning and turning and never got all the way tight.

It was at that point I realized the pan was stripped.

First thing I did was to go and buy one of those over-sized oil pan bolts from autozone. That did not help the situation. In fact it made it worse by cross threading the pan.

I knew at that point I would have to remove and replace the pan. But I didn't want to put another aluminum pan back on and end up with the same problem down the road. I've read from some individuals on this forum that they have had this issue 2 or 3 times and I did not want to deal with this more than once.

So.. after searching and reading, I found that there is actually a 2-part steel bottom oil pan. So I ordered one along with a tube of that gasket seal stuff and away we go...

(more to follow)...

[High Mileage Bug]

Let me start by saying -- I am no mechanic. I work in Computers and junk. But I know how to turn a wrench and I'm wiling to try. But the biggest motivation is I didn't want to pay $500, or $800, or whatever it cost to have it done.

1) So the first thing I did was to jack the car up and put it on jack stands - be safe.

2) The next thing is to remove the plastic under-tray and then the oil pan steel guard if you have one. It was like 2 or 3 bolts.

3) Now remove the oil pan. There are 3 sideways bolts that hold it to the tranny or whatever it is and like 20 hex/allen head bolts that old the oil pan to the bottom of the engine. Once all the bolts are removed the oil pan should just come right off. Check all around to make sure you didn't miss any. If it won't come off, tap it gently on the side with a rubber mallet to break the seal.

In the pictures below, on the left is a side-by side of the two oil pans. The stock aluminum one and the new super cool black steel bottom pan. On the right is a close-up of the threads on the stock aluminum oil pan. As you can see they are really jacked up.

[High Mileage Bug]

Here is a close up picture of the plug in the new oil pan.

The left picture is the outside of the plug and the right picture is the inside of the plug.

Notice that the plug is in the steel part of the pan. This pan should not strip as easily as the aluminum pan and last for the rest of the life of the car.

[High Mileage Bug]

4) Next I put the gasket sealant goop all around the top lip of the new oil pan.

5) Put the oil pan up to the bottom of the car and put in the 20 hex/allen head bolts. Tighten until snug but don't over tighten.

6) Put in the 3 sideways bolts that holds the pan to the transmission (or whatever it is).

7) Put the oil pan guard back on then the undertray.

8) replace the oil filter, wait a few hours for the gasket goop to cure, then fill with oil and you're ready to go.

Important -- watch for leaks for the next few days - especially on the first day. Watch the oil level carefully. Check it regularly for the first while. If the gasket doesn't seal 100% or if the pan is not on right or not tight enough (for goodness sake don't overtighten the bolts) then it might leak. Just keep an eye on it.

[High Mileage Bug]

It took about an hour to 90 minutes to remove the old pan -- about 15 minutes of scraping and cleaning off the old gasket seal -- and about an hour to 90 minutes to install the new oil pan.

Total cost:

$100 - new steel oil pan plus shipping
$13 - tube of automotive gasket sealant
$15 - 5 quart jug of motor oil
$6 - new oil filter.

It really wasn't that bad. If you're patient and take your time you should be ok. It's not that difficult to reach all the bolts. There are 3 that are a bit tricky because they are recessed but if you use a long allen wrench (that what I used) you can get them out then back in.

I changed this about two weeks ago and so far no issues. No leaks, the driveway it perfectly clean and the oil level is holding steady.

Let me know if you have comments or questions.

[D2Beetle]

Nice work.

I really disliked those three hidden tranny bolts; I used a 5mm ball end hex wrench; worked like a charm and the bolt size is 10mm.

[simonsi]

OP, where did you source the ali/steel pan from?

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by simonsi

OP, where did you source the ali/steel pan from?

X2....Nice DIY...

[daughtersbeetle]

Im going to be replacing one this weekend...this is a great big help for me...Thanks for the info...

[daughtersbeetle]

This should be in the "How To" section.....makes it much easier

[SMG]

My mechanic just fixes stripped VW oil pans by putting a steel 1/2" drain plug from NAPA in the stripped hole. They thread in hard the first time obviously and then seal tight. I'd recommend trying this before pulling your pan.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by SMG

My mechanic just fixes stripped VW oil pans by putting a steel 1/2" drain plug from NAPA in the stripped hole. They thread in hard the first time obviously and then seal tight. I'd recommend trying this before pulling your pan.

I can' beleave you said something positive... Amazing...

[SMG]

I'm actually full of useful information when the OP doesn't annoy the **** out of me.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by SMG

I'm actually full of useful information when the OP doesn't annoy the **** out of me.

You must get annoyed easily as i don't see you helpin anybody here... Just chiming in with b.s. comments like this one...

[HudsonValleyVDub]

I changed my oil pan a few months ago for the same reason and I too used the steel bottomed pan shown. For about $100, I got the pan with free shipping, no tax, new oil pick-up and a tube of VWs liquid gasket material. The job takes o more than an hour or so from start to finish. I got it from GermanAutoParts.com. Here's the link if needed.

GermanAutoParts.com

I did use one of those larger oil plugs from the auto parts store but over time, it too started to leak. This is a permenent fix and it's fairly cheap. Extremely cheap if you compare it to what a dealer would charge.

[SMG]

Originally Posted by Canadianbugin

You must get annoyed easily as i don't see you helpin anybody here... Just chiming in with b.s. comments like this one...

I actually help quite a bit. You started the BS in this thread, not me.

[daughtersbeetle]

I just changed out the oil pan with the steel bottom this past weekend..
Not for a the plug, but for a hairline crack in the pan...
This was very,very helpful..
Thanks for the info and the great pics.

[HudsonValleyVDub]

Originally Posted by SMG

I actually help quite a bit. You started the BS in this thread, not me.

This is why I ignored him months ago. I highly recommend it!!

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by SMG

I actually help quite a bit. You started the BS in this thread, not me.

Ya o.k... Go back to sleep..

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by HudsonValleyVDub

This is why I ignored him months ago. I highly recommend it!!

Another Moron pipes in...You know where to go...