2.0L VW Beetle GLS Engine rings

[dbmoylan@gmail.com]

I understand that many forum members believe that the unusual consumption of oil in our 1999 VW Beetle GLS with a 2.0L engine was a fault of VW by assembling piston rings backwards (upside down).

Can anyone please assist in recommending what parts should be changed if the drastic step of removing & opening up our model engine to stop the oil burning is taken.

Also knowing if we should use the OEM parts, and if not, who to get improved after market parts from is appreciated.

(always having to check the engine oil & refill it is for the birds)

Thank you.

[simonsi]

Really not worth it but....

You need to change the rings on the cylinder(s) that are installed correctly, if doing that then you may as well do a full rebuild but as a minimum you would need to replace all the rings on all 4 pistons (installing correctly), and hone the bores (even if a rebore isn´t required), if a rebore is warranted then you would need to change the pistons too.

Honing with the block in-situ is possible (some machine shops will still have the kit no doubt, remove the head and sump and pistons/rods then seal/protect all the block apertures from getting honing debris into places/oilways it shouldnt), but I wouldn´t recommend it as you may end up with contamination from the honing.

So thats engine and box out, may as well look at the clutch while its out....it can go on and on.

Guess why VW didn´t recall the engines affected???

Personally I live with checking, its a normal part of owning a car, even adding oil keeps the sump fresher than otherwise.

[The Cheat]

here's a solution: mobil1 15w50 exteended with the m1-301 filter. my car's down to a quart every 5k instead of every 1k.

change every 20k.

ps: the car holds a full 5qt with the 301.

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by The Cheat

here's a solution: mobil1 15w50

I was thinking of pointing him in that direction based on what you have said but its suitability might depend on the OPs ambient temp range and that all got a bit complicated for me. Do you run that combo all season??

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by simonsi

I was thinking of pointing him in that direction based on what you have said but its suitability might depend on the OPs ambient temp range and that all got a bit complicated for me. Do you run that combo all season??

And also, do you change @ 10k ?

[dbmoylan@gmail.com]

My situation is like many others on the posts, have to put about 1/4 of a quart every 1 - 2 weeks depending upon how much I drive the bug. I was going to use 40W oil at next change but am targeting fixing this problem once and for all.

New piston rings seem to be on the parts list prior to opening it up, but aren't the "oil guides" also a recommended part to change if oil consumption is the problem?

Car only has about 53K miles on it & drives/idles fine. I was not thinking I'd need to hone the piston wells but am no expert either.

Big job & I agree that midas well chanage other parts once it's opened up.

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by dbmoylan@gmail.com

I was not thinking I'd need to hone the piston wells but am no expert either.

New rings need the bore honing otherwise they won't bed in, then you have all 4 cylinders burning oil worse than before...

[The Cheat]

i meant 10k! that's what i get for posting mobile!

i also run it year-round and pull 30+ for mpg's.

that should answer any questions.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by The Cheat

i meant 10k! that's what i get for posting mobile!

i also run it year-round and pull 30+ for mpg's.

that should answer any questions.

Just seems a little too long to leave the oil in... I change mine @ 5000kms and use the TDI filter with 5w40 syn...?? No oil burning issues though...

[dbmoylan@gmail.com]

How might the oil filter reduce oil consumption? I am in a tropical climate & am leaning on using 40W oil at next oil change to reduce oil consumption. Should 15W-50 be used in warm climates? Thanks.

[The Cheat]

unless you live south of the mason-dixon, 15w50 is safe all year-round.

my car started in -10 weather this winter with no issues.

15w50 is thicker, protects better, and reduces blow-by.

[beej]

For those of us at the Mason Dixon or below, what are your recommendations?

[dbmoylan@gmail.com]

I understand that heavier oil causes more fuel consumption and possibility that lifters will begin to tick louder. I do understand though that it might lower the oil lubrication problem. Thanks.

[The Cheat]

Originally Posted by beej

For those of us at the Mason Dixon or below, what are your recommendations?

15w50 in the winter months, you could even go as high as 20w50 in the summer months. thicker oil is needed at extreme temps to help keep the engine cooler.

i know a buddy in little mexico (arizona) who runs 10w60 year-round in his tdi, the car needs it cruising at 120* ambient temps for 6 hours plus at a time.

to the op:

this is how i combatted the initial loss in fuel consumption; i aired my tires to 40 psi, cleaned all the crap out of the car, and basically kept the car in tune. right now, i'm pushing 34mpg easily. sure, my lifters are a hair noisier at startup, but it's a vw with 8 valves, lifter tick is expected and appreciated (i'm an mk1/2 guy at heart).

[Mr Maynard]

Anything between 5w-40 to 15w-50 that I could use in the Midwest? (St Louis area)