Valve lifter noise

[Bumbalawski]

I just replaced the head gasket on a 2000 2.0 AEG engine. I changed the intake valves also. Now the engine has bad lifter noise when it is reved up, but not to noisy idling. It runs smooth but is noisy in the top end. Is there a fix or does it eventually go away?

[Smileybug]

Oil level good?

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by Bumbalawski

I just replaced the head gasket on a 2000 2.0 AEG engine. I changed the intake valves also. Now the engine has bad lifter noise when it is reved up, but not to noisy idling. It runs smooth but is noisy in the top end. Is there a fix or does it eventually go away?

A couple questions for ya... Are you using sythetic oil?? AEG'S should use syn ! What grade oil?? Should be 5w40 or appropriate grade for temperatures in your area as well as VW spec..!!Should also be using an OE spec filter..(i use only MAN ) Two liter engines are known for the tick... If you are using the proper oil viscosity and filter,the followers(lifters)may have collapesed or the oil galleries are clogged. If everything checks-out the lifters should be replaced or otherwise you'll have to deal with the tick....

[gamefoo21]

Originally Posted by Canadianbugin

A couple questions for ya... Are you using sythetic oil?? AEG'S should use syn ! What grade oil?? Should be 5w40 or appropriate grade for temperatures in your area as well as VW spec..!!Should also be using an OE spec filter..(i use only MAN ) Two liter engines are known for the tick... If you are using the proper oil viscosity and filter,the followers(lifters)may have collapesed or the oil galleries are clogged. If everything checks-out the lifters should be replaced or otherwise you'll have to deal with the tick....

A solid true synthetic 5w30/0w30 can be used, they won't have lifter knock.

The only off the shelf one I can reccomend is the Castrol Syntec 0w30, it's 1 litre containers, and it's made in Germany.

The following are the ones you can get away with *w30 and *w40 unless noted:

The rest are Amsoil, Fuchs, Liqui-Moly, Motul, Redline, Schaeffers, and the Shell Rotella T6(5w40).

Also, Oil Stabilizers are for goofs who think gear oil or boiler heating oil has a place inside an engine, and tries to supplement their use of improper oils such as non-synthetics/semi-synthetic.

[chephron]

Originally Posted by gamefoo21

A solid true synthetic 5w30/0w30 can be used, they won't have lifter knock.

The only off the shelf one I can reccomend is the Castrol Syntec 0w30, it's 1 litre containers, and it's made in Germany.

The following are the ones you can get away with *w30 and *w40 unless noted:

The rest are Amsoil, Fuchs, Liqui-Moly, Motul, Redline, Schaeffers, and the Shell Rotella T6(5w40).

Also, Oil Stabilizers are for goofs who think gear oil or boiler heating oil has a place inside an engine, and tries to supplement their use of improper oils such as non-synthetics/semi-synthetic.

Mobil 1 Full Synth 0W-40 in winter and 5W-40 in summer is what I use.

W-40 is not as much protection as W-40. Also be careful to see what conforms to VW 502 00, 504 00, 505 01, or 507 00 Oil Specifications for your car. The 4 lists are for different VWs so make sure you know which list applies to your car. Many of the oils on your list are not on VW's list. 502 00 and 505 01 are on the link below and are the ones that apply to my Passat for example.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf

If you aren't checking your oil with these lists, you are taking big risks with the most important fluid in your car.

[Pseudotropheus]

You said you replaced the valves. You also said its noisy.

When you put brand new valves in it, did you have the valve seats machined?

I think its 45 degree bottoming stone and a 30 degree topping stone? ( I might be a lil' off )

The valve face smacking the valve seats, could cause abnormal valve train noise. Is oil getting up to the valve train; Is your pick-up tube cloggged?

[Bumbalawski]

Seats are 45 degrees. Oil pickup is clear. I am pulling the cover tomorrow to check for oil flow to the top end. I do wonder about the oil filter. Any recomendations on a filter other than Fram crap.

[huck731]

I use K&N and have had no problems. but some good ones are purolator and wicks (or however they spell it). may I also suggest usind the diesel size filter. it has larger/better filtration capacity and it will allow your engine to old a little bit more oil.

[chephron]

Originally Posted by Bumbalawski

Seats are 45 degrees. Oil pickup is clear. I am pulling the cover tomorrow to check for oil flow to the top end. I do wonder about the oil filter. Any recomendations on a filter other than Fram crap.

Amsoil, Bosch, K&N, Mobil 1, or VW oil filters are what I recommend. Bosch makes the VW filters I believe. Purolator and Wix are no better than Fram.

[huck731]

Originally Posted by chephron

Purolator and Wix are no better than Fram.

I have never heard such alligations. I have always been told by my uncle/ a certified mechanic, numerous other mechanics that I trust, and the only guy at the auto parts store I trust (because he doesnt give a crap if you buy things at that store or a different place, he just helps you get what is the best) and they all said fram sucks, I think we all agree on that. but wix and purolator are very good/among the best filters according to all of them.

[chephron]

Originally Posted by huck731

I have never heard such alligations. I have always been told by my uncle/ a certified mechanic, numerous other mechanics that I trust, and the only guy at the auto parts store I trust (because he doesnt give a crap if you buy things at that store or a different place, he just helps you get what is the best) and they all said fram sucks, I think we all agree on that. but wix and purolator are very good/among the best filters according to all of them.

No offense to your sources at all, but do any of them have long-term experience with German cars or VWs? I used to have American and Japanese cars and for those I used Wix and Fram Toughguard and never had a problem. Purolator makes good stuff too as far as I can tell, but they just don't make their filters up to spec for German Cars. They don't include the correct valve inside the filters to circulate oil through adequately for VWs. Also if you have a Turbo, you should really only be using the Full Synthetic Filters along with VW Spec Full Synthetic Oil(which if you are using K&N, I am sure you are)to help prevent the sludging issue. Many mechanics know cars and recommend stuff based on general automotive knowledge (even good ones), but few know how important it is to buy oil and filters that despite what works in other cars, work well in VWs. Few mechanics even understand just how specific and different German cars are to other kinds of cars unless thats what they specialize in exclusively. If you need more information, ask any of the mechanics on TDI Club.com. Even though they have diesels, they are very expert at all VWs. I am quite sure they know more about these cars than any auto parts store guy or regular mechanic, no offense.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by chephron

No offense to your sources at all, but do any of them have long-term experience with German cars or VWs? I used to have American and Japanese cars and for those I used Wix and Fram Toughguard and never had a problem. Purolator makes good stuff too as far as I can tell, but they just don't make their filters up to spec for German Cars. They don't include the correct valve inside the filters to circulate oil through adequately for VWs. Also if you have a Turbo, you should really only be using the Full Synthetic Filters along with VW Spec Full Synthetic Oil(which if you are using K&N, I am sure you are)to help prevent the sludging issue. Many mechanics know cars and recommend stuff based on general automotive knowledge (even good ones), but few know how important it is to buy oil and filters that despite what works in other cars, work well in VWs. Few mechanics even understand just how specific and different German cars are to other kinds of cars unless thats what they specialize in exclusively. If you need more information, ask any of the mechanics on TDI Club.com. Even though they have diesels, they are very expert at all VWs. I am quite sure they know more about these cars than any auto parts store guy or regular mechanic, no offense.

Funny no mention of Mann filters...Not available in the U.S. ? This is what i have used in all my VW's.. Exceeds VW's specs and has an excellent anti- drain back valve and filtration...??? I use the larger TDI type for more volume and filtration..

[Smileybug]

I use Mann filters on my car. My local shop uses them and the Bosch filters. Don't think I'd use any other besides Mann and Bosch.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by huck731

I have never heard such alligations. I have always been told by my uncle/ a certified mechanic, numerous other mechanics that I trust, and the only guy at the auto parts store I trust (because he doesnt give a crap if you buy things at that store or a different place, he just helps you get what is the best) and they all said fram sucks, I think we all agree on that. but wix and purolator are very good/among the best filters according to all of them.

FYI... Fram and Purolator are made by the same company...!! And not even close to the OEM type for the VW engine... It's like comparing apples to oranges... Like the old saying goes.... You can pay me now or you can pay me More later.... Your choice in the end though... To me the choice is clear..!!

[Mr Maynard]

My .02

1.Wal Mart grab a large bottle and a separate quart of Rotella T 5w40 (18 bucks)

2.Goto O'Reilys Auto Parts and buy their brand of Oil filter which is a relabeled WIX (2 bucks)

3.While you're there, grab a new plug (1 buck) for extra insurance

Then just head home, pop the radio on, crack a beer, and do an oil change.

My Beetle LOVES Rotella T. Used it in my MK3 2.0 as well and it did very well. Burn off now went from 1 1/2 quarts on dino 5w30 to just 1/2 with Rotella T.

Nice trade off!

[Pseudotropheus]

use either K&N, Mann, WIX, or Bosch.

Mann's are fairly cheap; here in Washington about 7-8 bux.
K&N about 12-13 bux
Wix about 6 bux
Bosch about 7-8 bux.

IMHO Bosch is the worst one of those 4 listed. Go with Mann, if not K&N

[Smileybug]

What makes you say Bosch is the worst of the bunch? Mann and Bosch are pretty standard for VWs.

[chephron]

Originally Posted by Canadianbugin

Funny no mention of Mann filters...Not available in the U.S. ? This is what i have used in all my VW's.. Exceeds VW's specs and has and excellent anti drain back valve and filtration...??? I use the larger TDI type for more volume and filtration..

Never seen them here, probably can get them online. I'll check
them out! Thanks!

[chephron]

Originally Posted by Pseudotropheus

use either K&N, Mann, WIX, or Bosch.

Mann's are fairly cheap; here in Washington about 7-8 bux.
K&N about 12-13 bux
Wix about 6 bux
Bosch about 7-8 bux.

IMHO Bosch is the worst one of those 4 listed. Go with Mann, if not K&N

Here in GA Bosch is $15 for the synthetic one which is what you
should use anyway. Bosch is also the maker of the OEM VW filter
so I am not sure why you don't like them...

I do not use generic, one size fits all brands like Purolator, Fram, STP
or Wix on the advice of lots of VW Mechanics and TDI Club Trusted Mechanics. The relatively small price difference is worth not taking the chance on such a special car as the Beetle in my opinion.

[Canadianbugin]

Originally Posted by chephron

Never seen them here, probably can get them online. I'll check
them out! Thanks!

Anytime....You'll like the removal much better as all you need is a rachet&extension and socket... Much easier than a slippery filter in your hand... (see post 12 above...lol)