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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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Also of useful note, autozone.com has part of the schematic for it. Unfortunately it doesn't cover the whole thing.
Besides checking fuses, the usual first step. Looks like pin 8 (Red w/black stripe) should be going to the small wire of the starter solenoid. This wire should be getting +12v when you turn the key to start, as mentioned by Simonsi. If you're not getting +12v then it's a safe bet the neutral safety relay is the issue. But without knowing more on how it's wired, it's difficult to say what comes next. However: If you have +12v there (which judging by the loud click you likely do), and at the starter's small red/black wire. And +12v to the large black wire on the starter. Then it will likely be the starter solenoid, or starter motor. And of course for safety: Make sure you disconnect the negative terminal before playing with the big positive wires going to the starter. Beyond voltage checks that is. |
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Funny enough I am having the same issue. My bug was running really well last night, got home around 9ish pulled her into the backyard for the night. Went out there in the morning and tried to start her and nothing. Just a quick click and that was it. Lights work, radio turns on and all that but no running bug. Seems the solenoid is the culprit here, i'm hoping its that simple of a fix
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quick question. Is the positive wire to the starter soleniod the one with a small wire attached to a clip to the solenoid or the wire that is covered with a protective cover and bolted to the solenoid?
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It's the same on just about darn every car making it easy, you'll have the following.
Small gauge wire with a clip or plug - This triggers the solenoid will get +12v when key is in the start position, and neutral/clutch safety switch is activated. Large gauge wire bolted on, sometimes with a cover. - This goes directly to the battery. Always has +12v even with key off. Large gauge wire bolted on going from solenoid to the motor - Will get +12v once solenoid is triggered, drives the starter motor. There is no negative wire as the chassis, engine, and most every metal bit acts as the negative terminal. |
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Thanks...I've checked it and got exactly what you said...12v all the time on the pole with the thick wire and 0v at the small wire even with the key at start. My wife "started" the car while I was reading the DMM and it didn't register any voltage...so I'm pretty sure that it is the P/N relay (175) as that is the only thing in the chain that is not tested (I don't know how to test it)...now where do I order one...
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Quote:
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Now I'm at a loss.
I checked the voltage to the starter solenoid with a DMM...my wife "cranked" the key ignition, the voltage bounced to +2v and settled at less than 0.5v, so I know it is something before it hits the solenoid. The ignition switch is fine, tested per instructions in Haynes. I looked at the wires, they looked fine...but I couldn't trace all of them. I replaced the Park and Nuetral Relay (175), got it for 9 bucks...no cigar. Earlier, I replaced the brake light switch (8 bucks)...nope. So I think I checked everything from the key to the starter solenoid...I'm sure that I missed something. I looked at the schematics...where is the transmission control module and multi-function transmission range switch? |
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Sorry all, it is the Park Neutral Relay. When I replaced it last night...started it...no cigar. I forgot to reinstall my mass air flow sensor.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and set it aside to let it dry...and totally forgot it. It was totally unrelated, but since I had it out, might as well clean it...as I had a P0171 code (System too lean). |
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