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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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Ok, so I love my bug, yes everyone says they are pains and ok, kinda, but mine has been super good to me, and actually quite easy to work on... but i need some help.
So tux has been doing some strange things lately. Starts and runs fine most of the time, when you put gas, it would have kinda of a hard start, but otherwise runs fine, 99% of the time. The other one percent, you'll be driving, foot on the gas, usually immediately after shifting up, and it feels as if the brake is one or its not getting any fuel. It just drags, for about three maybe five seconds, then back to normal. Been doing this off and on for a few months, i keep meaning to take it in, but every chance I get, it wont do it. Anyway, been doing it for a few months, getting more frequent the last month or so, and NOW will just die. Almost exactly 15 minutes into the drive. And it wont start, at all, till you let it sit for a min of one hour. any ideas? PLease, im lost... |
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I'm willing to put $20 down that you just need a new fuel filter. Diesels make power based on fuel to air, the MAF would affect air but with diesels most often a clogged filter reduced fuel pressure, this drags the car or lets it stall out.
My Jetta has a plugged filter and it can't go above 3300rpms in 3-5th gears. I can still drive it but the acceleration, and fuel economy, is diminished noticeably.
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Phoenix: 2003 Uni-Red New Beetle GLS TDI 140k former-automatic with a 1998 TDI Manual Transmission swap. |
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Remember chris, this is a 2.0L not a diesel
Though I'd also start with a fuel filter.
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The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI ![]() The money saver:2001 Jetta TDI GL. 114k. Dead auto, swapped to 3 pedals. Hubby's DD and our trip car |
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Got an Engine or Airbag light but can't afford a Vagcom or trip to the dealership? Need help finding a local mechanic or shop? |
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the fuel filter and cleaning the MAF sensor... still dies after running for about 15 minutes. The ignition pack is new, changed in February, and the wires and plugs also... any other ideas? Have a scanner coming in a few days, hope that works if no one has any more ideas...
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OOOOKKK! Still dying, my poor little buggy. Scanner had three codes, 706, p1706?maybe is the only one still on after I replace MAF, and the whole assembly actually, something about ignition timing no input? We will take off the manifold tomorrow to check the coil pack, and the plugs and wires. The wierd thing, is he's runs immpeccably for almost exactly 15min, then dead, turn's over but won't fire up. Nada. any ideas anyone??? Thanks
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I recommend you check the bottom link in my signature to help you find a Vw mechanic near you . You don't want to keep replacing parts and not really solve your exact problem.It sounds like something about the car isn't quite right with the fuel system or something. But in this case, i'm really not sure because I haven't had anything like this on my car. |
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I've done several things to tux at this point. New MAF sensor, MAF tube, fuel filter, ignition pack is new as of this year, and new plugs... wires arent new, and I changed the fuel pump today. still stalls after 10 to 15 mins of running perfectly... Got the following codes from an Autel Vag 305:
01165 - Throttle Body Control Module -J338 or Throttle Body Control Module (J338) 16706 - Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit - No Signal or Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal : P0322 17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached : P1565 Anyone got any ideas???? Thanks |
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Test procedure: The G28 engine speed sensor produces AC voltage when the engine is turning (either cranking or running) and this signal is used by the Engine Control Module (ECM) to trigger the injectors and coils. 1. To test for correct operation, measure the AC output voltage of the sensor, with the engine cranking, between the White and Brown wires on the sensor side. 2. 800mV AC voltage minimum must be present at crank speed (preferred voltage is 1.5 to 2.5 volts AC). 3. The sensor is located in the engine block, front side, just ahead of the transmission, near the oil filter housing. |
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Man, you are my hero. I have been fighting with this car for months... no one here knows $#!+ about vws. There is only one mechanic here... and he's busy ALL the time. can i pm you if i got ?s?
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. Check the bottom link in my signature to help you get started on finding one nearest you |
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Ok update - I finally got to change the sensor this weekend. That was the issue thank you all. Especially you mechanic. I have to say it was not that hard. I'm a girl, so small hands im sure didn't hurt. I didn't have to remove anything except the oil filter. Once I did that and shoved some hoses out the way, I got my hands righting there. Total proces once found the sensor took about an hour. So if anyone else has this issue, don't worry it's not impossible
thanks again, tux lives!!! |
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| Tags |
| 1998 , dies , stalling |
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