CV Boot

[2005Beetle]

Anyone ever try to fix their own cracked CV boot?

I bought the Haynes manual for this car and it has a lot of jumping around so I typed it all in to one easy to read page;


Chapter 8, section 11 Driveaxle boot replacement

1. Remove the drivaxle from the vehicle as described in Section 10

Chapter 8, section 10 Driveaxle - removal and installation

1. Remove the wheel trim/hub cap (as applicable_ and loosen the driveaxle/hub nut with the vehicle resting on its wheels (see illustration). Also loosen the wheel lug bolts.
2. Block the rear wheels of the car, firmly apply the parking brake, then raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the front wheel. Note: On models with an automatic transmission, it may be necessary to unbolt the transmission support from the subframe and the transmission and pry the engine/transmission forward to provide clearance for the drivaxle removal.
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the inner CV joint to the transaxle drive flange and remove the retaining plates from underneath the bolts (see illustration). Support the drivaxle by suspending it with wire or string - do not allow it to hang under its weight, or the joint may be damaged.
4. Using a marking pen, draw around the end of the suspension control arm, marking the correct installed position of the ball joint. Unscrew the balljoint retaining bolts and remove the retaining plate from the top of the control arm (see Chapter 10).

Chapter 10, section 8 Balljoints - check and replacement

6. Mark the position of the balljoint bolt heads to the control arm. Unscrew the balljoint retaining bolts and remove the retaining plate from the top of the control arm (see illustrations).

Chapter 8, section 10 (continued)
5. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut. Also remove the inner fender panel (see Chapter 11) and the under-vehicle splash shield (don't do).
6. Carefully pull the hub assembly outwards and withdraw the drivable outer constant velocity joint from the hub assembly (see illustration). If the splines of the outer joint are stuck in the hub, tap the joint out of the hub using a soft-faced mallet. If this fails to free it from the hub,, the joint will have to be pressed out using a puller which is bolted to the hub.
7. Maneuver the drivable out from underneath the vehicle and recover the gasket from the end of the inner constant velocity joint, if present. Discard the gasket - a new one should be used on installation.
8. Don't allow the vehicle to rest on its wheels with one or both driveaxle(s) removed, as damage to the wheel bearing(s) may result. If moving the vehicle is unavoidable, temporarily insert the outer end of the driveaxle(s) in the hub(s) and tighten the driveaxle/hub nut(s); in this case, the inner end(s) of the driveaxle(s) must be supported, for example by suspending with a string from the vehicle underbody. Do not allow the drivable to hang down under its weight, or the joint may be damaged.

Chapter 8, section 11 (continued)
Outer CV joint (all models)
Refer to illustrations 11.4, 11.5, 11.7, 11.8, 11.9, 11.10, 11.17, 11.18 and 11.22
2. Secure the driveaxle in a vise equipped with soft jaws, then loosen the two outer joint boot retaining clamps. If necessary, the clamps can be cut off.
3. Slide the boot down the shaft to expose the constant velocity joint and wipe off as much grease as possible.
4. Using a hammer and a brass punch, tap the joint off the end of the drivable (see illustration). Caution: Place the punch on the inner race of the CV joint only.
5. Remove the circlip from the drivable groove, then slide off the thrust washer and dished washer, noting which way they are installed (see illustration).
6. Slide the boot off the drivable and discard it.
7. Clean the outer CV joint assembly to remove as much grease as pssible. Mark the relative position of the bearing cage, inner race and housing (see illustration).
8. Mount the outer CV joint in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Push down on one side of the cage and remove the ball bearing from the opposite side. Repeat this procedure until all of the balls are removed (see illustration)/ If the joint is tight, tap on the inner race (not the cage) with a hammer and brass punch.
9. Remove the cage and inner race assembly from the housing by tilting it vertically and aligning two opposing cage windows in the area between the ball grooves (see illustration).
10. Turn the inner race 90-degrees to the cage and align one of the spherical lands with a cage window. Raise the land into the window and swivel the inner race out of the cage (see illustration).
11. Clean all of the parts with solvent and dry them off.
12. Inspect the housing, splines, balls and races for damage, corrosion, wear and cracks. Check the inner race, for wear and scoring in the races. If any of the components are not serviceable, the entire CV joint assembly must be replaced with a new one. If the joint is in satisfactory condition, obtain a boot replacement kit; kits usually contain a new boot and retaining clamps, a constant velocity joint snap-ring and the correct type of grease. If grease isn't included in the kit, be sure to obtain some CV joint grease.
13. Coat all of the CV joint components with CV joint grease before beginning reassembly.
14. Install the inner race in the cage and align the marks made in Step 7.
15. Install the inner race and cage assembly into the CV joint housing, aligning the marks on the inner race and cage assembly with the mark on the housing.
16. Install the balls into the holes, one at a time, until they are all in place.
17. Apply CV joint grease through the hole in the inner race, then force a wooden owl down through the hole (see illustration). This will force the grease into the joint. Contine this procedure until the joint is completely packed. Joints with an outer diameter of 81mm (3.2-inches) will require 80 grams (2.8 ounces) of grease; joints with an outer diameter of 90mm (3.5-inches) will require 120 grams (4.2 ounces) of grease. Pack the joint with as much grease as you can, then place the remainder of the grease in the boot.
18. Place the axleshaft in the vise. Clean the end of the axleshaft, then slide the new new clamp and boot into place. Note: It's a good idea to wrap the axleshaft splines with electrical tape to prevent damage to the boot (see illustration). Apply the remainder of the grease from the kit into the CV joint boot.
19. Remove the protective tape from the drivable splines. Slide on the dished washer, convex side first, followed by the thrust washer (see illustration 11.5).
20. Install a new circlip in the groove on the drivable, then tap the joint onto the drivable until the circlip engages with the groove in the inner race. Make sure the joint is securely retained by the circlip.
21. Ease the boot over the joint, making sure that the boot lips are correctly located on both the driveaxle and the CV joint. Lift the outer sealing lip of the boot to equalize air pressure within the boot.
22. Install the large retaining clamp on the boot. Pull the clamp as tight as possible and locate the hooks on the clamp in their slots. Tighten the clamp by crimping the raised area with the special boot clamp tool (see illustration). Due to the relatively hard composition of the boots, this type of tool is required to apply adequate crimping force on the clamps. Secure the small retaining clamp using the same procedure.
23. Make sure the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions, then install the driveaxle as described in Section 10.

I'm still on the 1st #2! I have some help with the pry bar but cannot get the bolt out of the (possible) steering knuckle. It's so close, yet so far away.

[2005Beetle]

I'm now on the next step! I got the bolt out by prying the engine/transmission out of the way to provide clearance to remove the bolt holding the A-frame (whatchamacallit) in so now all I have to do is: 3. Unscrew the bolts securing the inner CV joint to the transaxle drive flange and remove the retaining plates from underneath the bolts (see illustration). Support the drivaxle by suspending it with wire or string - do not allow it to hang under its weight, or the joint may be damaged.

Wish me luck!

[2005Beetle]

Here's a picture: Google Image Result for http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/125817/3square.jpg

[2005Beetle]

Problem is, I don't see any bolts securing the inner CV joint to the transaxle drive flange.

Wish me luck.

[JP]

you should get the Bentley repair manual it's about 90 to 100 bucks well worth it, as it breaks down all info needed

[Droid]

wait.... what? bolts securing the cv joint to the inner drive seal flange?

take the bolts you see out,4 i think and pull the axle off....its not that hard!!!!!!!!!!!

the inner drive axle flange will come off with the axle....

[2005Beetle]

I pounded on the clamp around the strut till the rotor/axle separated from it. Hopefully the next step is just pulling it out of the transaxle.

[2005Beetle]

Droid: I don't see any bolts!

Maybe that's why when I tried just pulling by the the disk rotor nothing happened.

[2005Beetle]

The last message was over 24 hours ago! Hard to believe.

I found some more specific instructions for my 2005 New Beetle than those provided by my 1998-2005 Haynes manual.

These instructions say I have to "Remove drive axle from flange shaft/transmission." As you know, mine doesn't budge.

It also says something about "Press out drive axle."

Anyone out there?

[2005Beetle]

There are bolts visible when the axle is rotated. I never would have been able to find them if it wasn't for this YouTube video detailing the whole procedure! YouTube - VW DIY How to install / replace / fix a CV joint : Drive shaft on MKIV Golf www.FixMyVW.com

I'll do it right today. It's 1:00 AM now.

[2005Beetle]

I never had to disconnect the strut! Now I suppose I'll have alignment problems. I should have just marked everything. I pounded on the clamp around the strut till the rotor/axle separated from it.

[2005Beetle]

I jacked up the passenger side and put the car in neutral. Then I rotated the wheel but could never see any bolts connecting the axle to the transaxle.

[2005Beetle]

So, I put the bolt back in securing the clamp to the strut and then removed the three bolts from underneath the assembly with my 13mm socket. According to the video YouTube - VW DIY How to install / replace / fix a CV joint : Drive shaft on MKIV Golf www.FixMyVW.com I should just be able to pull it out now!

[2005Beetle]

I have a FSM for a Chrysler/Dodge Caravan and it gives detailed instructions on how to service the driveshaft. It looks similar to ours. I will now be able to complete this job!

[Smileybug]

Why don't you get the factory manual for the New Beetle? Then its all the right info.

[2005Beetle]

I might be going to jail where I will probably be killed.

So, why get the Bentley manual?

Wish me luck!

[Smileybug]

It is THE service manual for VWs. It can answer a lot of questions for you that you ask here on the forums. Seems you are a DIY kind of guy. Its worth every penny if you are.

I mean, why have a FSM for the Caravan? Probably because it tells you how to do repairs right?

[simonsi]

Originally Posted by 2005Beetle

I have a FSM for a Chrysler/Dodge Caravan and it gives detailed instructions on how to service the driveshaft. It looks similar to ours. I will now be able to complete this job!

Hope you don't work in aircraft maintenance

[2005Beetle]

Apparently my axle has some shield blocking so I can't get to the bolts attaching it to the transaxle. I cut the CV boot off today and it was dry as a bone. Hopefully it still works when I eventually get it back together.

[2005Beetle]

I see damage inside. But, how bad can it be? I'm already into this thing knee deep.

Here's picture: Google Image Result for http://files.me.com/chris.ealer/dkhqay