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Old 05-21-2011, 08:43 PM
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Default 2000 Beetle just died

I was driving on the freeway going about 80mph. Car hesitated for a second check engine went on and off. Then it went back to driving fine.

I exited the freeway a few miles later and check engine light and battery light both came on and the car just died. I manged to get pulled into a parking lot. I tried to start it back up. It sounds like it wants to start, but it won't turn over.

I was on my way to work when this happened (naturally) So I had someone come pick me up. I'm having it towed to my work parking lot for the time being since it is a secure lot and I work 12 hour shifts the next 3 days so I can't really do all to much with it until Tuesday.

Any ideas?
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:50 PM
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I should also add it has 120,000 miles and was running fine prior to this.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:57 PM
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Subscribing to this thread.

Cup, my beetle, is currently out of commission for a similar situation. She's not in the shop yet. When I get a resolve, I'll let you know what's what on my end.

Cup is a 2000 GLS 1.8t with 157,000 on the clock.

I feel your pain- I miss my beetle and hope to get her on the road soon.

All the best to you.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:47 PM
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I just sent a tow truck to go pick up and bring it to my work parking lot (police station with secure lot) Beetle started right up when he got there. He towed it to my work and it started fine and drove to a parking spot.

I just went out and started it up and it does have a check engine light. So at least it will have a code (hopefully one that helps)

I'm torn if I should try and drive it back home when I get off work.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:24 PM
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Could be something as simple as bad gas or a dirty fuel filter. If it's not terribly far, try taking a "slow" road home, where the fuel pump isn't working as hard.

M.
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarabY2k View Post
Cup, my beetle, is currently out of commission for a similar situation.
Say it ain't so!! What happened Al? That seems a bit odd for Cup. Maybe she's still pissed about the tensioner incident.
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Old 05-22-2011, 02:34 AM
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For you and Al i my 1999 beetle 2.0 did the same thing and i got him towed into the shop. My problem was the throttle body and it had to be reprogramed. My Beetle has 146,000 miles and is now driving great after they fixed him and i took mine to Arizona. Maybe has something to do with that but idk, hope it helps
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyOtherRidesAVette View Post
Could be something as simple as bad gas or a dirty fuel filter. If it's not terribly far, try taking a "slow" road home, where the fuel pump isn't working as hard.

M.
I was at about half a tank, so not sure about gas. fuel filter was changed last year.

I drove it home and it seemed to be driving a little rough, but it made it.

A friend of mine who formerly owned a Jetta and is a car guy suggested that the battery is quite old and it may just be related to that as he said VW's seem to act weird when the battery is on the way out. I had it scanned at autozone and got a new battery (which they of curse would not install) so one of neighbors helped me out and got it in.


Code is P0322

I drove it to work after I installed the new battery and it seemed to be driving ok, but a little off, which could have been in my head as well cause now I am waiting for "the other shoe to drop"

On my car clubs forum some guy who works for VW and generally is not heloful to me said.....if you replace the battery you need to adapt the throttle valve to the ECM after. If you don't, you may have an issue after the battery replacement. I'll be honest I don;t even know what that means. Is this true? I don't want to be creating more problems just because I replaced the battery!
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004NBTURBOS View Post
Say it ain't so!! What happened Al? That seems a bit odd for Cup. Maybe she's still pissed about the tensioner incident.
Well Gene, it's pretty much that very same thing- It happend again on the way back from TOD, tensioner seized and the belt snapped... about 3.5 hrs from home. Made it home on just the battery. Now she won't start. I'm stumped on this one. We'll see what the shop says.

BTW, the tensioner siezed because the black hose clamp bracket attached to the tenisoner, is suppose to be on the outside of the tensioner, not the inside. It's really odd.... that 1/6- 1/8th thickness on the inside will cause the tensioner to be too close to the timing belt housing and rub up against it, causing it to seize. repositioned the bracket on the outside and all is good- at least for that matter.

Just a little FYI for the future guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebugster View Post
For you and Al i my 1999 beetle 2.0 did the same thing and i got him towed into the shop. My problem was the throttle body and it had to be reprogramed. My Beetle has 146,000 miles and is now driving great after they fixed him and i took mine to Arizona. Maybe has something to do with that but idk, hope it helps
I hope that is the help I need. At the moment, I have no clue what's going on. She won't start, or even turn over. The battery is fully charged, still nothing. I'll keep you all posted.

Last edited by scarabY2k; 05-22-2011 at 08:11 PM..
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:02 PM
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So I have been doing some researching on the P0322 code. From the posts I have searched and read on here it does in fact sound like it is the engine speedsensor. I am and will be a little stunned if this in fact the problem since it seems that the codes I have got in the past it is always something slightly related, but not really what the code suggests I will have to see if I can get the part tomorrow and get it installed.

Anyone have input on what I posted about the throttle valve and ECM after replacing the battery? I can post a new thread, but figured I'd try to keep this mess to one thread!
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:08 PM
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Unfortunately, I would just like to see the answer to your ECM question as well. Sorry I do not have an answer, post if you figure it out?

Best of luck with your beetle and new battery. I think I may need to replace mine, which brand did you go with if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:03 PM
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Throttle Body Adaptation after battery replacement:

Connect positive cable
Connect negative cable
Turn key to "ON" position but do not start car. You should hear the throttle body "clicking" multiple times. After the clicking stops, turn the key back to the "OFF" position.

Car should start and run normally.

Good luck!!!
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUGSTUFF View Post
Throttle Body Adaptation after battery replacement:

Connect positive cable
Connect negative cable
Turn key to "ON" position but do not start car. You should hear the throttle body "clicking" multiple times. After the clicking stops, turn the key back to the "OFF" position.

Car should start and run normally.

Good luck!!!
Thanks!
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:06 AM
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Same thing happened to my 2000 Bug... would run for a bit, the engine light/battery light would come on and the car would just die. Wait 5-10 minutes... start right back up and same thing after driving a few miles.

It was the ENGINE SPEED SENSOR that needed to be replaced, that's all! The car won't run correctly unless you replace it.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:52 AM
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MY car did the same thing for about 2 months. Then it finaly died. The fuse block on the battery was the culprit. The main cable off the generator harness fried my fuse block. If this is happening just replace the fuse block and all fuses, and you should be fine. VW could not give me a reason why this happens. They have seen this happen before and were not surprised.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:46 AM
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I sure hope that VW learned from the new beetle and it's woes when designing/engineering/building the 2012 beetle- just sayin'
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:01 PM
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Upgraded main power cables, and ground cables. Will solve the power distribution block problem. There are aftermarket replacement options that cost around $150 with shipping, or you can make your own.

The Crank Sensor is such a moody little ****. Buy an OEM replacement, I went with a non-OEM replacement and I made it 6 kilometers before it went bad.

The engine bay on these cars is hot and bloody humid, so it just cooks electronics. I have resorted to actually lowering the temperature the engine is allowed to run at via a lower temp thermostat and lower temp fan controller unit. I have also off loaded the transmission cooling duties to a seperate cooler. A cheap and easy change, is to remove the rubber seal at the base of the lower windshield trim, this helps with at speed stability and also creates a functional duct so air blow out of the engine compartment, again greatly helping with keep all the under there cool and dry.
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