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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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I have a 04 VW Beetle 2.0 gas and a few weeks ago I started having problems. First after driving for a lil while maybe 5 miles or so the dashboard lights would go crazy. The battery light would come on then the brake then abs then the car would "give up". It doesn't sputter dead or fight to keep running it just slowly shuts down, hitting the accelerator does nothing and it stops. Then when you try to start it back up it would click multiple times. My uncle said it was the alternator so we changed the alternator. I test drove it and within 10 mins it did the same thing. So he said it must be the battery, and we got a new battery, changed it. After a test drive it did it again. We've had the alternator tested and the battery tested, both good. Now it won't start up without a jump and just clicks. If I jump it, it stays good for a while but when you drive it it gives up again. Any suggestions? I can't take it to a VW dealership cause I'm unemployed.
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Bad cables/connections between the alternator, the battery fuse box, and the battery, and/or possibly the ground. Go here -
MORAV needs some help helping someone else on the Org! - Battery Fuse Box Issue MORAV |
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Quote:
Here are some pics I took ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by Curtisjr; 09-21-2011 at 02:17 PM.. |
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Since the plastic fuse box is melted, the cheapest route might be to pull a "good" fuse box from a car at the junkyard and replace it yourself. You might want to replace the metal terminal on the end of the black wire too. For that, I'd suggest using a new ring terminal.
That said, I'm new here, so I would hope that someone who's done this sort of repair replies too. |
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Looks like the one I have in a box. You realy cannot do a reliable altinator test with the altinator in the car with that cable and fuse block. I strongly rcommend that you read though all of the thread that MORAV 'S link takes you to. I think it is a must read for you, posted above. After you have read it P/M me if you have any ?'s. I'll do my best to answer them and get this resolved.
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You have some major issues. You will need to replace the fuse box, ALL the fuses with new )heat can damage these and affect their functionality. You do not want to attempt to "fix" the burnt/melted black cables. This cable is in a harness, so it is easiest and cheapest to bypass the harness, besides the cable is to small of a gauge., but it is larger than a #6 (it's metric, between a #5 and a #6 AWG. Replace it with a #4. The red cable services the vehicle electricalsystem relay panel and will also likely need to be replaced, as you need to loose the connector and an inch or two of cable. The connectors can only be crimped with a special tool. If you can find a local shop to make up your new alternator lead, they may be able to fix this one. If you replasce it, also use a #4 AWG.
Something also caused the cable to overload. The resolve of the thread I linked you to earlier was a bad voltage regulator caused the damage. Unless you determine the cause of the failure, it is just likely to recur after sopending the time and money to replace the fuse box and cabeling. If you need some help, please p/m me as I don't always see all posts. MORAV |
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