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| 2.0 Liter Gas Discussion area for the venerable 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engine. |
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I have a 2005 NB 2.0L and got a smog check which I thought I could sneak by after removing the negative battery cable to get rid of the check engine light which was just indicating a "cooling system malfunction." The car ran fine and passed the emissions portion of the test but since I had recently disconnected the battery the mechanics said I failed the functional portion of the test.
I decided that the water pump would be a good idea to replace since the car has 107,000 miles on it and the timing belt was due for a change anyways. Turns out that my Haynes manual covers from 1999 to 2005 and wasn't specific enough for me on the timing belt cover removal so I got stuck. I removed the serpentine belt but there is a gear in front of the lower timing belt cover and I don't know if I should take it off. Does anyone have any better directions? |
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Timing Belt replacement writeup with 61 pictures and 44 steps....>> - AudiWorld Forums VWVortex.com - DIY: Timing Belt And Coolant Pump Replacement on 2.0 AEG! Pics Inside! VWVortex.com - Ultimate Timing Belt DIY! In turn, I failed to remove upper TB cover first time as something was holding it down there. Step 35 from http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1961739 explains it. |
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Long overdue for a timing belt. Guess you haven't bought the Bentley manual yet
Did you ever replace the coolant temp sensor?
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The Baby: Darla, 102k, '99 New Beetle GL 5-speed. Bone stock. Acquired 4/6/05. Gave her life for me 8/17/11. RIP ![]() The Project: Klaus, 180k+, '84 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel. Rebuilt and bringing 50+ mpg. Slightly improved from stock Acquired 7/12/08The Baby Brother: Günther, 20th Anniversary Edition GTI ![]() The money saver:2001 Jetta TDI GL. 114k. Dead auto, swapped to 3 pedals. Hubby's DD and our trip car |
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Actually I'm still stuck at removing the cover
I feel like something is holding it at lower left corner (as I look at it from passenger side fender). According to Bentley I should be able to remove upper cover before undoing the bracket...I'm not sure if there is another hook down there but engine mount bracket prevents from sliding it out. What is the way to remove it? Pull out, then up? I can't pull up on myself & towards the end of the car as there is an inlet to intake manifold. |
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Also when I was removing harmonic balancer, I accidentally rotated crankshaft counterclockwise a bit. Does it make any difference what direction to rotate while TB is installed?
Shall I replace bolts on harmonic balancer? They have some green tint. Or is a bit of thread locker will be enough? |
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Coolant system malfunction is often times caused by a bad thermostat... not always, but it is fairly common. Quote:
Also, have you unhooked all of the clips from the upper timing belt cover? I use a long screw driver to get one that is "hidden" on the bottom/back side of the cover. Weekend is almost here... I'm going to get a head start and grab me a beer right now.
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Pencilneck blah blah blah OEM Wheel Database.... http://www.4130-products.com/wheels 5052 @ $8000 = total crap VAG COM @ $350 = sanity |
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Also I'd like not to make a mess and use absorbing mat. I know that jack is supposed to be on the firm floor. Do you lift engine a bit on the jack with a thin absorbing mat underneath or I should never ever do that? I know that the end of the jack is moving a bit during the work, so I wonder if jack has to be able to roll a bit on a concrete floor. |
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Ok, I've removed it. In case someone else is struggling and is afraid to brake it, here is how. It is likely that protruding tab is catching the tensioner. I slightly bent plastic edge out and it came right off. I guess it is about time to do TB job. The second pic shows TB for 97000 mi on 2002 car (10 yr old) for the reference. It is exactly 22 mm in width.
P.S. When I was at dealer 2 yrs ago they didn't even mention how wide it was... Last edited by mlt; 10-01-2011 at 04:25 AM.. Reason: I completely rewrote message as I finally got it out |
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Ticking time bomb there.
Heads up... OEM parts or GTFO. Never try to take a cheap way out on fixing your car or you will Prothe it. ![]() Bad vw part vendor warning list - TDIClub Forums |
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Surely you're not talking to me about an OEM thermostat? I just bought mine at the local parts store and chose the middle priced one since I'll probably be replacing it again soon when I eventually do the water pump.
Today I bought some new sockets and took the thermostat out. Can't wait to put it back together. I returned my rental car today that I used to tied me over. It was a Nissan Vespa. Seemed reliable. |
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I was able to capture 925 ml and there was mess around provided that I drained 2.85 L before I started. |
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I just put the engine mount bolts back in.
Real troubleshooting is an option but since, like I said, it was over 100k miles and the "cooling system malfunction" code was there, the timing belt is due and the water pump is driven by the timing belt so why not do them at the same time? I thought that might clear the code. I blew it though when I had the rental car and had this built in cheap feeling come over me that since I was getting ripped off on the rental car I would drive it a long ways to try to make it worthwhile. I just wasted time and couldn't do any repair work when I was on the road. Now I have the water pump but feel the thermostat was the cause of the DTC anyways (the gasket was bad). I'll put the new coolant in and give a follow up. |
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I disconnected the battery when making my thermostat swap but now, how long does it take for the DTC to reset if it is going to? Right now, the only lights on the speedo are the ABS and some other weird brake warning (looks like a circle).
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"some other weird brake warnig"? Here are your choices. (From the '05 NBC OM), probably front brake pads. And probably the reason your ABS light is on. Who needs brakes?...
Warning lights are an indication there is a problem, and they need to be addressed, not ignored. What ever they are. MORAV
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I have the picture of the circle which your chart says means, "front brake pads worn."
The real problem is I routed the wires to the front left wheel wrong when I was replacing the axle and the snapped when stretched. I soldered them back together but only got rid of that circle warning light. The ABS light came back on. My soldering job must not have been that good. The smog tech said that didn't matter and I passed! ![]() |
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