Does this look okay for water pump opening?

[mlt]

So I've removed WP with some mess. It was the first time I did it. All looked like WP came out as a single piece. However I decided to double check that nothing is left in the opening.
Does the following picture look normal? It seems like something is broken on the left and also something looks like jammed. I doubt it is o-ring as that something is inside and AFAIK o-ring came off with WP.

[Skoobahead]

Nice Pic. Those are pieces of your water pump impeller

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Smart decision, asking! Although comparing the old to the new, you should have an idea of what is missing, it didn't just evaporate. And what do you mean AFAIK o-ring came off with WP, it did or it didn't. What else transpired when the WP failed. Timing belt failed? Probably. Valve damage? Possibly. You're obviuosly changing this because of failure and not routine maintenance.

In this case, "All the facts, Ma'am!", not "Just the facts, Ma'am!"

M.

[VDubYah]

The piece below the thermostat looks like a vane off the removed water pump. The area around the other arrow not sure.

I don't think a plastic impller failure could cause this. Someone prying on a water pump comes to mind( Not pointing fingers at you pump may have already been worked on.) But the sealing edge for the o-ring shows no damanged so I am somewhat perplexed as to the cause at present. May be cavatation damange from a bad pump impeller again hard to tell or just a losy block casting from the factory.

[Skoobahead]

When I changed my water pump there were plastic pieces from the vanes just like your photo. Had to fish them out. Take a good look at the vanes on the pump I bet you find an exact match.

[mlt]

While I did pry gently on WP while removing it, I think it was a false alarm. It was just stuck in there. I did pry from the right side on the spots that don't touch the block directly not to damage the surface while still pulling the pump on the left as hard as I could. So in theory even I didn't angled WP much, it would break something on the right as it is essentially where it angled while I pried and not on the left.
The old WP came out as a single piece and nothing is missing compared to a new one. Also I suspect it was reflection of some channel (?) going down or just a dimple. There was no debris, metal pieces of any kind.
My plan is to replace thermostat first and to get more light in there while it is out. I hope it won't be the same mess

[MyOtherRidesAVette]

Looks a whole lot different from that angle. Looks like it's just in the casting and that nothing is in there.

[VDubYah]

New picture shows much better angle. Appears to be casting marks. My bet is where the casting runner was removed when the block was cast. The material hardens up under the heat of the metal poor and the clean up crew has to remove it sometimes they have to use a little force to break up the runner.( The part that makes the channel in the casting)

I think you are good to go on putting it back together

[mlt]

Good to hear that nothing looks bad so far!
It took some elbow grease to sand off the rust with 320 grit paper. I still failed to remove enough for thermostat housing flange mating surface. Also for some reason I got two o-rings: the one with thermostat and the one with the flange from blauparts I'll use the one that came with thermostat. They've included also new bolts and regular clamp. I'm going to reuse existing bolts as they look okay and also I trust to spring clamp more.

Do I apply a thread locker anywhere in there for WP or thermostat? It doesn't look there was any thread locker before. I've applied a tiny bit of high-temperature anti-seize lube to prevent further rusting. Do I apply locker only on engine mount bolts and maybe bracket to engine bolts? I'm not sure about tensioner... what if I have to readjust it?

I wonder if it makes sense to replace temperature sensor just in case on the other side. I remember while I was driving the steady blue light was returning once in a while during the drive. AFAIK temperature shouldn't drop that much so it would happen. I'm not sure if temperature sensor is playing up or it was a thermostat that stuck open sometimes.

Also what can I use to clean up dust on camshaft sprocket and some coolant drips from crankshaft sprocket? Brake cleaner? Is it safe for seals? Just water?

[VDubYah]

No thread locker on any of the bolts. Your clean surface and torquing them to specification will be ok. I would not clean the cam gear with any solvent based cleaner as residue may affect the timing belt. As long as the teeth slots are clean you should be good. Don't rotate the cam gear if you are needing to clean the teeth.

[mlt]

Originally Posted by VDubYah

No thread locker on any of the bolts. Your clean surface and torquing them to specification will be ok.

What about tensioner nut and engine mounts?
Also what is that white/grayish stuff on bolts to see if they are not unscrewed? Is it just a pain? I have a spare bottle of touch-up primer. Can I mark tensioner nut and engine bolt heads with it? Or is there a special compound?

Originally Posted by VDubYah

I would not clean the cam gear with any solvent based cleaner as residue may affect the timing belt. As long as the teeth slots are clean you should be good.

I assume Q-tip and weak solution of Pin-Sol won't hurt.

[mlt]

So I've installed timing belt. But after few manual revolutions I've noticed (it might have happened earlier) a streak of coolant from under WP I'm positive that I've lubricated O-ring as I could (as it doesn't really stick to it) and its mating surface in the block. Is it normal for the first time? It is so weird as I didn't even put coolant in... perhaps leftover from O-ring lubrication...

The only thing that might be wrong is if I slightly under-torqued bolts as I was not confident in the wrench. It may be slightly less than 11 .. maybe 10.5 ft lb. Can I slightly undo bolts and re-torque while TB is installed?