2001 beetle tons of problems

[tnsteve]

new battery..have had set with vag come two times. REset all the codes runs fine for a day. GEt back in next day...ck engine lite is back on along with the epc in yellow. It came on yesterday while driving but has tons of power. Does anything seem to think I may have a bad ecm? I got stuck in the road..it would start right up always has no problems..but having problems with the throttle body..showing misfires..etc. The thing will run good some times for a week then go all to pieces. I have had everything under the sun did to this car... new catalytic converter..have had two mechanics look at it..one guys says he thinks its the computer ecm or a loose connection. I want to know there is a plate under the windshield . I have removed it. What do I do from there to get to the computer.? I Can buy one and hve it changed but I know I'l have to get the keys programmed andall I think.

[Smileybug]

What codes show up when you scan the car?

[tnsteve]

I dont remember today all I know is three of them were misfires on 1 2 and 3 and the other had to do with the gas pedal...and brake lite switch. Seems its good for a day..next morning you get in its all to hell again..maybe like the computer is going bad and losing everythingl. Could that be the case?

[Smileybug]

Doubt its the ECU. Scan for codes and get the exact codes and post them up. If you aren't fixing the problems that the codes are for, they will come back.

[tnsteve]

Ok here are the codes. When I first bought this car the battery cables were loose so I had to get the throttlebody adapted with the vagcom.
it has acted up since. I changed out the mass air flow and the guys that repaired it this time said that one was bad and the one I had cked good so they put it back on. The epc lite ws on yellow and the ck engine was on. when they brought it back to me they were still on. said they came on coming down the road and they would come back and ck it later..Well they did and they said yea well you need a new throttle body and a new computer...
Ok yesterday after I had added a new battery..my friend came over he had researched these beetles a lot becasue his daugther had one engine went bad he had one put in and it would not start...he purchased the program and learned how to adapt the throttle body..he came over..set mine and it was running great..I drove it that nite butck engine lite came on again and the epc in yellow was on..still was running fine.
next morning I Get in it..starts up so easy but wont run. I got it out in the road and like to of never got it back in the driveway. Well I took my Vcker and cked it did not write the codes down but cleared it and it ran fine. got it back in the d rive way. I drove it htis morning. Those lites came back on again but its running fine so here are the readings as of right now.
p0300 random multiple misfire
p0301 cyl 1 misfire detected
p0304 cyl 4 misfire detected
p0302 cyl 2 misfire detected
p0571 brake light switch a circuit malfunction ( those guys said they put a brand new one on it but I doubt it.)
p1152 long term fuel trim additive air are 2 system to
Thats what the cker says. Thats a lot of problems..but why does it run fine now..and in the morning it will be all to heck..it wont run til I reset the codes? Do I have a faulty ecm? Or whatever it is. I cant seem to get anyone here to work on it...everyone wants to just say hey I dont work on those and those guys that worked on it for me I will not take it back there. Sorry...I mean I dont like people doing business like that.I am willing to pay so I should be willing to get what I pay for. Thanks for any help..sorry for any typos..was in a hurry and have to run to the DR..when all this is done I will be on double blood pressure meds..LOL..thanks

[Smileybug]

Where are you located? You may have someone near you who knows of a good shop.

Misfires are usually spark plugs, plug wires, or the coil pack. How old are your plugs?

Your brake light switch could be another bad switch, or you can check the fuse as well. Also check your bulbs and make sure they are working.

As for your last code, could be a number of things:


17560/P1152/004434 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17560/P1152/004434 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 2: System too Lean

Possible Causes

Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70) faulty
Intake Air System faulty/leaking (false Air)
Fuel Injector(s) faulty
Fuel Pump faulty
Exhaust System leaking
Secondary Air Injection System faulty/leaking

Possible Solutions

Check Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70)
Check Intake Air System for Leaks
Check Fuel Injector(s)
Check Fuel Pump
Check Exhaust System for Leaks
Check Secondary Air Injection System

[tnsteve]

I am in Greeneville Tennessee

[Smileybug]

Not familiar with TN, but here is a trusted list of mechanics if any of them are close to you.

https://docs.google.com/a/ncsu.edu/d...hl=en_US&pli=1

[Opelmania]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

Where are you located? You may have someone near you who knows of a good shop.

Misfires are usually spark plugs, plug wires, or the coil pack. How old are your plugs?

Your brake light switch could be another bad switch, or you can check the fuse as well. Also check your bulbs and make sure they are working.

As for your last code, could be a number of things:


17560/P1152/004434 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17560/P1152/004434 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 2: System too Lean

Possible Causes

Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70) faulty
Intake Air System faulty/leaking (false Air)
Fuel Injector(s) faulty
Fuel Pump faulty
Exhaust System leaking
Secondary Air Injection System faulty/leaking

Possible Solutions

Check Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70)
Check Intake Air System for Leaks
Check Fuel Injector(s)
Check Fuel Pump
Check Exhaust System for Leaks
Check Secondary Air Injection System

Great advice Smiley. I would start with plugs and wires if they are old. Also the coil packs are known for cracking. Mine did. Brake light switch is also a known bad part for our nB's. Less than $8 at the dealer and a 2 minute fix. After you sort out the misfires, I would see how it is running and then if it is still running bad, disconnect the MAF. If it runs well with the MAF disconnected, buy a good one from here. http://www.germanautoparts.com/ I'd buy everthing from there. Good prices on just about everything and I have had no problems from the parts that I've gotten from them. Smileybug has had the same luck with them.

[AndyBees]

I suggest that you never clear codes without writing them down.

Testing the coil
I'd start by removing all the spark plugs for the purpose of testing the coil. Using a bench buffer (grinder with brush on one end), clean the plugs and then lay them on the front of the engine with plug wires attached (good ground). Disable the fuel pump so the injectors are not activated. Have someone crank the engine over as you watch the spark plugs. If they all produce a BLUE spark the Coil is fine. If they produce a red spark the coil is bad (that's per the Bentley). Assuming you get a nice blue spark the wires are probably okay too! You can replace the plugs at this time!

I'm just curious as to whether or not there were any codes relating to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Those two sensors are very critical with the operation of both the fuel injection and ignition systems.


Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
If you have access to VAG COM, I'd also disconnect the battery cables and hold them together away from the battery for at least two minutes. The using VAG COM, do the TBA procedure per Ross-Tech. Here is the link: Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki

If other codes show, you must write them down.

Sometimes a sensor can go crazy causing misfires and then casuing an OX sensor to send a code, etc.....sort of like the domino affect.

Recently, I went thru the same sort of circumstances with a 99 NB. One by one I eleminated things and finally settled on the Camshaft Position sensor. It was the only code that would not stay deleted. As it turned out, the sensor was physically damaged. The magnetic was stuck to the back side of the Camshaft Sprocket.

I installed a new Camshaft Sensor and the engine ran fine! Of course, I did all the above to eliminate the easy items first!

Hope this helps!

autohausaz.com is also a good place to purchase your parts..... orders over $50.00 ship free!

[tnsteve]

Thanks for all the help. All I know is yesterday morning it did same thing..would start but not stay running. Just have not had the time to work on it yet. I am not a mechanic but can do minor things. IT's so expensive and I want to get the car back to runnning order so I Can sell it. No one would buy it in the current condition. Thanks for all the help. Looks like I wont get to do anything much to it til first of the week. I have my kids all weekend and they keep me busier than four beetles..LOL