Red ! Light came on

[musky]

I was driving today and all of a sudden a red ! light came on,i checked my coolent reserve and its full,what could this be.

heres a picture below the blue light goes off after the car warms but then today the red came on,funny because this morning is our first day with snow.It,s a 1999 beetle.

[kcfoxie]

I believe your front brake pads may be worn out...

[musky]

seriously dude dont bother answering?im confused on whats the warning light for temp and oil on this car.

[Smileybug]

Originally Posted by musky

seriously dude dont bother answering?im confused on whats the warning light for temp and oil on this car.

?? He did answer your question. That red light is for your brake pads.

[kcfoxie]

Actually I may be wrong. The brake wear out icon is yellow and at the bottom. I think that means your parking brake is on? In the US we have the word "BRAKE" written, but you have a KM cluster so you have a european setup. I believe that light means your brake is on. Also the blue temp light means the engine is cold, if it flashes red that means it's overheating.

The oil light looks like a genie oil lamp, as seen in this photo (below the battery), it will flash if there is a drop in oil pressure:

[musky]

oh ok sorry i though you were just being smart...lol

the warning light that the arrow is pointing to is not the one on its the light above that do you know what that light is.

[kcfoxie]

Yeah I know, I just found that photo online that had (most all) of the dash lights illuminated so I could explain. If the one that's pointed to is red, the car is overheating. The light above it I believe is the Euro Parking Brake warning lamp, so chances are the parking brake switch has failed in the on position on your vehicle.

[musky]

ok thankyou because about a week ago my abs light came on also,i know the brake pads are fine because i had them changed 4 months ago and the brake pedal is fine nice and high.


if the parking brake switch has failed in the on position on your vehicle.will this make the brakes bind,because i noticed since i got the car when i take my foot off the gas it reallt bogs down fast almost like i dropped it into low gear,it does not glid smoth when i release the gas,it slows fast.

[kcfoxie]

It may be that the parking brake cable needs to be adjusted then. That sounds like the rear brakes are dragging (on) when they should be free (off).

[Smileybug]

Do you have an owners manual? It tells you what all the lights mean.

[geniushanbiao]

I think you have a canadian model and this red light is the same as the BRAKE light on American models. This light is for both your hand brake and brake fluid level. However if the brake fluid is low then the light should be flashing instead of solid on. If the light is solid on then your hand brake is not released completely or the hand brake switch is bad.

Originally Posted by musky

I was driving today and all of a sudden a red ! light came on,i checked my coolent reserve and its full,what could this be.

heres a picture below the blue light goes off after the car warms but then today the red came on,funny because this morning is our first day with snow.It,s a 1999 beetle.

[nitroman]

Yes geniushanbiao is right. The reason why some people don't recognize this light is because, like me, you have a Canadian model. On the US models that light is actually spelled out "BRAKE". It is not the brake pad wear light (which is actually the last light on the bottom right at the 5 O'clock position).

I looked at my owners manual and it states exactly what geniushanbiao says:
- On US models it means that the brake fluid level is low
- On Canadian models it means there's a malfunction in the system. (I know, pretty generic).

There's also a big fat warning box that if both the brake light and the ABS light come on, then under hard braking your rear wheels will lock up making you lose control.

Another note is that it states that if the ABS light comes on there might be a problem with the EDL system.

I'd do what others here suggested and check the fluid level and also the parking brake. If those are fine then you have some serious issue with the braking system.

[IndyTom]

Who did your brakes? It seems they didn't do a very good job especially on the rear. It takes a special tool that turns the caliper pistons and at the same time pushes them in.
If they just pushed in the pistons without turning them they probably have damaged the calipers. Or perhaps they didn't connect the parking brake ball correctly when hooking it back up and it is binding the rear brakes. Either way it is something you need to check out right away. If the rear brakes bind and you keep on driving on them they will just overheat and warp the rotors and eventually fail.

Another item to check is your ABS speed wheel sensors. If they are faulty they could be causing brake issues as well.

[musky]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

Do you have an owners manual? It tells you what all the lights mean.

no i dont have a owners manual.

[nitroman]

Originally Posted by musky

no i dont have a owners manual.

I have the same car, 1999 2.0L, and I still have the manual so if you need me to look up anything lemme know. But I already looked up that light for you so, you should get it checked out as any of the reasons stated here could cause the problem.

[Cali_Slug-Bug]

Originally Posted by kcfoxie

Yeah I know, I just found that photo online that had (most all) of the dash lights illuminated so I could explain. If the one that's pointed to is red, the car is overheating. The light above it I believe is the Euro Parking Brake warning lamp, so chances are the parking brake switch has failed in the on position on your vehicle.

I just got my used Bugger recently. The guy I got it from (works at VW dealer in Daly)said he has recently changed the timing belt, water pump, and all other 80K maintenance.
Just a few days ago the temp light started flashing. I pulled over and turned off right away.

I live in NorCal where the temps reach 95+ on any given day in the summer.
I have not done any troubleshooting yet.. still researching a plan of action... I took it out last night after it cooled down outside to see if the outside temp being over 90 was a contributing factor. It took a little longer, but still flashing light came on...

There is a slight oil leak that I think is coming from the valve cover and leaking down the back of the motor. Could back of motor being coated in oil cause an overheat issue?

A/C doesn't work (no pressure) and blows HOT air...
Could no freon in A/C or non-working A/C cause her to overheat?

I went to auto parts store and got a quart of Lucas Synth oil supplement and 5 qts of Mobil 1 0W-40 full synth and a larger (Passat) oil filter (I read in a forum that the larger oil filter will fit perfectly and could help with overeating issue) the oil in her right now seems to smell rather gassy and seems to have no viscosity) (Has Castrol 5W-40 full synth in it)

There is appropriate amount of fluid, no white smoke from tailpipe, or antifreeze on the dipstick, but was smoking some out of the dipstick and when I pulled oil cap off after the light came on the first time.

I am pretty alone here considering recently relocated here, so don't have tools or a shop to troubleshoot in... trying to find out what I can do with minimal $ and work since it just started hoping something small like thermostat...

Any suggestions/tips?

[Smileybug]

Are you sure the coolant is significantly above the min line? If its right at the edge, it can do that. I'd try adding a bit of distilled water to bring up the level a bit. My first thought would be that there are just a few air pockets in the system still which has brought down your coolant level.

BUT, AC doesn't work. Does the compressor kick on? Do your fans come on?

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Cali_Slug-Bug

I just got my used Bugger recently. The guy I got it from (works at VW dealer in Daly)said he has recently changed the timing belt, water pump, and all other 80K maintenance.
Just a few days ago the temp light started flashing. I pulled over and turned off right away.

I live in NorCal where the temps reach 95+ on any given day in the summer.
I have not done any troubleshooting yet.. still researching a plan of action... I took it out last night after it cooled down outside to see if the outside temp being over 90 was a contributing factor. It took a little longer, but still flashing light came on...

There is a slight oil leak that I think is coming from the valve cover and leaking down the back of the motor. Could back of motor being coated in oil cause an overheat issue?

A/C doesn't work (no pressure) and blows HOT air...
Could no freon in A/C or non-working A/C cause her to overheat?

I went to auto parts store and got a quart of Lucas Synth oil supplement and 5 qts of Mobile 1 0W-40 full synth and a larger (Passat) oil filter (I read in a forum that the larger oil filter will fit perfectly and could help with overeating issue) the oil in her right now seems to smell rather gassy and seems to have no viscosity) (Has Castrol 5W-40 full synth in it)

There is appropriate amount of fluid, no white smoke from tailpipe, or antifreeze on the dipstick, but was smoking some out of the dipstick and when I pulled oil cap off after the light came on the first time.

I am pretty alone here considering recently relocated here, so don't have tools or a shop to troubleshoot in... trying to find out what I can do with minimal $ and work since it just started hoping something small like thermostat...

Any suggestions/tips?

The Red Flashing light doesn't necessarily mean the car is overheating. It means the fluid is low. Keep it above the Full line and see if the flashing comes back. Could be as simple as a bad sensor in your round Coolant reservoir tank.
I would ask this guy that you bought it from if he indeed changed the water pump when he replaced the timing belt or perhaps to save time and money skipped that part.

The leaking valve cover gasket would not cause the Red light to flash or cause an overheating condition unless the oil leaked all out which I assume you are keeping an eye on.
Not a bad idea to change that valve cover gasket if just to keep the car from smelling like burnt oil all the time.
Open the Hood and take a look at the Coolant reservoir. Start the car and let it idle a bit. Observe if there is any bubbling in the tank or if the level drastically changes.

I don't think your AC not working is related. The AC blowing hot air could be as simple as a fuse or as involved as a bad condenser or compressor. Or something in between like a sensor or faulty fan control module. Difficult to say without a thorough examination.

Let's just focus on your present issue the Red flashing light.
If the level is good and the fluid in the tank isn't bubbling then all you may need is this:

Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Search > Coolant Expansion Tank > ES#1894532 Coolant Expansion Tank - 1C0121407F

Hey, it's even on Sale. I may just buy me one to have on hand if that sensor ever goes out.

Oh, PS... I wouldn't use any sort of Oil treatment or additive of any sort in the Beetle. Most if not all those "Miracle Fluids" do not work and will upset the fine balance of the additive package of your
VW approved oil. So don't use Lucas or anything else for that matter. If you do want to give it a quick clean up. I suggest putting in half a can of SEAFOAM into the crank case one or 2 days prior
to your oil change. Then drain the oil and replace it with fresh Mobil One 0W40 that you bought. And get that valve cover gasket changed changed. It just makes your car smell of burnt oil.

[Cali_Slug-Bug]

OK going to go take a real look around... hope not to get head stuck underneath! Will be back later with results...

Thanks for all the tips! Going to the shop is always my last resort...

[Cali_Slug-Bug]

Well... I changed the oil kind of... couldn't get the old filter off... even went to the auto parts store twice for 2 different filter wrenches to no avail... the Penn one slipped and there was no room for the one with the handle... I even had my very buff neighbor guy try and get it off since I am a girl and sometimes can be weak... but it wouldn't budge. Gonna have to take it in to the shop just to have them loosen it for me... Ridiculous! Why do people always think everything has to be "as tight as you can get it" (second filter on a used car I have gotten this way... the old filter still on there, my arm is all scratched up, and I have a job interview in 3 days. hope it heals)

Anyhow, the fluid is at perfect level right below the mid line above the min mark. The fluid is pink and looks to be G12 and seems to be at correct consistency.
I saw some "activity" in the expansion tank. The small upper (overflow?) hose was consistently draining into the tank and the tank filled to midway between the center-line and the cap.
I waited for the fan to come on and checked the upper and lower radiator hoses and found the upper hose was hot as hell and the lower hose not hot at all. So- I am thinking from what I have read and know already plugged radiator or new thermostat...? Your thoughts?

BTW- Discovered slight oil leak was not from back of valve cover as I had guessed but from the cross-threaded drain plug in the oil pan! Geez! After that and the filter I am worried a little bit more than I was before... (although I do have clean Carfax that shows regular maintenance was done on it at VW dealers since bought in '02 At least til this last guy got a hold of it)