Common problems of early New Beetles

[geniushanbiao]

Some friends suggest having a thread detail the common problems of the NBs so I'm trying to write something. Both for references and also we can publish it into a handbook... Any comments are very welcomed.

P.S: This thread only covers most common problems that DIFFERS FROM THE COMMON PROBLEMS THAT HAPPENS ON ALL MODELS. However they can't replace the normal diagnostic procedures. The purpose is to provide you a clue when you have no idea how to resolve a problem and avoid the god damn charge from the dealer for only an easy fix.

A. Engine system

First it is VERY VERY IMPORTANT that you replace the timing belt+tensioner and water pump every 8 years/70000-80000 miles. The timing belts on these models are known to fail if you don't replace them and thus cause serious engine damage(to the valves which cost a lot to fix.

Symptom1: misfire and hard to start
1. The 2.0L engines have vulnerable ignition coils and if the coil fail then there will be Cyl1&4 misfire or Cyl2&3 misfire. Testing and replacing ignition coil should be first priority when facing a misfire problem.
2. Another possibility is one or more leaking fuel injector(s).
I had mine very hard to start when hot and later diagnosed as the problem of fuel injector(s) leaking. I replaced all of them and the problem was gone.
3. One possible cause of hard to start on the first attempt is the door jamb switch.(Sounds irrelevant? But it's true.) Every time you open the driver door as the door jamb switch actuates the computer would send a pulse to prime the fuel pump. However if the switch doesn't work then there is not enough fuel pressure. You can tell this by watching the light on the door interior panel. Solution is here: take off the door lock body, disassemble it and then you can find the printed circuit board. Just resolder all the soldering points then assemble it back the problem will be gone.
4. MAF sensor is another source of hard start. Although testing MAF needs VAG-COM cable and computer, we can always clean it using MAF cleaner. DO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER since it will damage the MAF sensor.
5. Vacuum leak is a possibility. Check all the hoses connected to the intake manifold and also if possible hook up a vacuum gauge.
6. Engine coolant temperature sensor. It can also cause not starting.

Symptom2: Not starting at all.(Engine turns but won't fire)
1. engine speed sensor and camshaft position sensor. You can test them using a Ohmmeter. Replacing engine speed sensor is easy but the camshaft sensor needs taking off timing belt.
2. Engine coolant temperature sensor.
3. Fuel pump not working.
4. Ignition switch. Note that replacing ignition switch will require taking off steering wheel.

Symptom3: Check engine light. You need a scan tool to retrieve the codes.
1. 16806 or P0422: Common on some early 2.0L engine due to wrong material used in catalytic converter. You can hear some rattling noise from the catalytic converter. VW extended the warranty for the cats of AEG engines to 10years/120k miles.
2. misfire codes 16684-16688 or P0300-P0304: helps you diagnose misfire problems. For example on some 98-99 AEG engines if 16685 and 16688 are both present while 16686 and 16687 are not, or vise versa, then there is a high possibility that the coil is bad because the NO.1&4 cyl's spark plugs are linked together and NO.2&3 are linked together.
3. MAF and IAT sensor codes 16484-16488 or P0100-P0103: indicates either the MAF sensor needs cleaning or the sensor needs replacement. Sometimes it can also be caused by bad wire harness.

B. ABS system.

One problem not easy to diagnose is with code 01276 ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64): Signal Outside Specifications. Facing this problem the dealer always asks you to replace the ABS pump which costs you like $1500 for parts+labor. However most of time the pump is still good and the only problem is a bad soldering on the circuit board of the ABS controller. To fix, first take off the ABS controller(If you can take off the controller while leaving the pump in your car it would be great but it seems impossible...) then separate the controller and pump by remove the 4 screws. Then you probably have to use a saw to cut the controller unit open since the 2 plastic parts are joined very very tight you can't separate them. Just use a saw blade cut the trench be careful not to damage the circuit board inside the controller. Then open the cover you'll see the board. Simply resolder the 2 biggest points that go to the pump then you can reassemble. You probably have to use some hot-melt glue to seal the controller. After all don't forget to bleed the whole system(including the abs).

C. Airbag system.

Most of time the airbag system is trouble-free but we have 2 common problems happend on airbag system while both of them will illuminate the airbag light.

1. There's a pair of cables running under driver and passenger front seat. as the seat is folded the wires got stretched and after many times the wires get broken. This will cause the airbag light illuminate and it's just a simple fix.

2. When taking off steering wheel for ignition switch replacement, if the steering wheel was not properly reinstalled then the airbag would report problem.

D. Transmission.

Generally speaking, the O1M auto trans equipped on early models are craps and always suffer from valve body failure. Later 5speed tiptronic is also not good. The later 6speed tiptronic and DSG are more reliable but only note that DSG is not good for long local driving since the start-stop driving will ruin the DSG trans.

There are some speed sensors on the trans and even dealer sometimes mix them up. If you got the diagnostic information says one sensor is bad, MAKE SURE WHICH SENSOR IT IS.


OK Let me finish here and welcome all comments!

[Smileybug]

The warranty extension on the cats was actually 10 yrs/120k and it was for the AEG engine only, so anyone would be out of the warranty time as the last year for the AEG was '01.

[geniushanbiao]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

The warranty extension on the cats was actually 10 yrs/120k and it was for the AEG engine only, so anyone would be out of the warranty time as the last year for the AEG was '01.

Oh yeah thank you. I'm suffering from this problem too...you have any good idea where I can get a cheap reliable cat?

[Smileybug]

I just got an aftermarket one at a local muffler shop. Was under $200 installed. I only had the car for another year and a half after the replacement, but it ran great for all that time. Much cheaper than any OEM cat you'd get. No clue on brand, but no issues with the rear O2 sensor or anything.

[geniushanbiao]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

I just got an aftermarket one at a local muffler shop. Was under $200 installed. I only had the car for another year and a half after the replacement, but it ran great for all that time. Much cheaper than any OEM cat you'd get. No clue on brand, but no issues with the rear O2 sensor or anything.

Yes I can get an aftermarket direct-fit one for like $150 but I'm concerned with the quality. I have one that has to be welded but it doesn't have the rear O2 sensor port...probably have to weld another bung. Thanks for your info.

[Smileybug]

Mine as welded on as well, but I'm guessing it had the rear bung. Again, mine worked great for that year and a half with no signs of crapping out. If my car wasn't totaled, I'm sure it would still be fine today

[PRM502STREET]

What about the timing belt? Mine has 150k on it original from 1999. Guess its time to change it. havent had those other problems either. I think she was built on wednesday!

[Smileybug]

Holy moly. Get that timing belt done ASAP!!!! Its a rubber belt with 13 years on it and if that goes, you'll be paying far more for the engine work than you would for a timing belt.

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by PRM502STREET

What about the timing belt? Mine has 150k on it original from 1999. Guess its time to change it. havent had those other problems either. I think she was built on wednesday!

You are joking right? I assume you are not the original owner? How long ago and with how many miles on the clock did you buy it? I bet the timing belt was already done once on her but even if, it is due again. No way the timing belt or the pos plastic water pump would have lasted 150k miles.

[Steve_pnchbug]

Originally Posted by IndyTom

You are joking right? I assume you are not the original owner? How long ago and with how many miles on the clock did you buy it? I bet the timing belt was already done once on her but even if, it is due again. No way the timing belt or the pos plastic water pump would have lasted 150k miles.

My 2000 beetle had 130k on it without the timing belt being changed. And I bought it with around 50k. I know that was very risky but at the time a poor high school student could only do so much.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[IndyTom]

Originally Posted by Steve_pnchbug

My 2000 beetle had 130k on it without the timing belt being changed. And I bought it with around 50k. I know that was very risky but at the time a poor high school student could only do so much.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

You mean a "Super Duper Lucky High School student"

I totally understand about not having a lot of money but the logic here escapes me. If the timing belt breaks the expenses of getting it fixed will in most cases exceed 3000+ Dollars and that is if the lower end isn't damaged. If it is the expense for fixing it will easily double that amount. So you are saying you rather spend 3000+ if it breaks and worry that your daily prayers may not be answered rather than spending 250-700 (depending if you do it yourself or take it some place) and be assured that your car will not self destruct for another 75k+ miles.

[Smileybug]

I didn't have a job when I was in college and still got my timing belt taken care of. It was later than I even wanted it to be and was biting my nails for a bit hoping it would last long enough (got it done at 77k and 9 years). Nothing was out of whack when it was changed but I scraped and saved all I could to get that done because I knew it was super important. Much rather pay $450 for the timing belt job than over a grand easy for the head to be repaired. A 2.0L job isn't that expensive. Cheapest of the engines.

[PRM502STREET]

No joke, Ive had her since 2001 w/50k. I stopped driving her now, until I can change out all the parts. I do a visual inspection on it every 6 months like the book calls for, and never realized this was such a weak link. Appearantly this little booger is tougher than we expected, because I dont really ever baby it and she never has given me any trouble,Im going to go through all my vacuum lines, put on some new o2 sensors,plugs&wires and give agood cleaning while Im at it. Thanks so much for leting me know about this weak link!

[pinkbeetle2000]

my bug is a 2000 had 121k on it oct of 2010, everything in it was original, all have vw on it. plugs wires timeing belt, i mean everything, so either the dealer still have everything marked vw or its all original. Now she has 165k on her, yes 44k in a lil over a year. shes tough, these bugs are very tough, idk how a belt can last that long but im sure its possible, with the right climate

[Bratgirl]

Originally Posted by Smileybug

The warranty extension on the cats was actually 10 yrs/120k and it was for the AEG engine only, so anyone would be out of the warranty time as the last year for the AEG was '01.

My '02 is an AVH engine and just last week the rep at VWOA told me that mine is eligible for the cat replacement. And she said it is 10 yrs/100K from "in service" date.

[flairbug]

People people! Please get your long overdue timing belts replaced immediately! They are only rubber belts and ride around in your hot engine everyday. This is a project I have done in my driveway. It isn't all that had just time consuming and you have to be a little careful to mark the gears so the new one goes on correctly. I've done it to my car twice. DAS Flair Buggie now has 188,000 miles on her and I am the original owner. Bought her in Nov. of 2000. Tough little car but don't ever gamble on a rubber belt, that could cost you big time.

[geniushanbiao]

Well for my AEG engine I suggest check the timing belt every 20-30k miles besides replacement. I think a quality belt can last more than 100k miles or 15 years but some belts are not manufactured good so they break under 100k miles. Checking is a good way to tell. Simply remove the upper timing cover and then rotate the engine.

[Smileybug]

You can't always tell though. A lot of times they look fine and then BOOM broken belt and broken engine. The timing belt in our TDI was cracked pretty bad (how it was still on there I have no idea) but many said that their belts looked way better than that and snapped.

The 2.0L has no change interval listed (apparently its magic and never needs to be replaced ) but the Bentley manual suggests 60k or 5 years, whichever comes first. Even with my 1.8T, I'll be following that fairly closely. 60k is a good point. I don't think I'll go over 6 years though. I went 9 on my NB and was biting my nails hoping it would last. Not a good feeling.

[bugsbuddy]

OK...so we know about the timing belt problem, so who makes the best replacement belt? Dealer, aftermarket, ect ect... The reason I ask is, a mechanic told me the factory original one is built so much better than aftermarket ones. Thanks.

[bugsbuddy]

Post the smaller problems like latch issues, electric, filters, leaks, ect...??? I didnt think a low milage car would have a cabin air filter problem like mine had until I changed it yesterday...boy was I wrong...click the link and check out the pic I took as I raised the dash cover. It was so plugged with leaves and sticks, the fan below the filter started to suck out the dash seals and insulation into the least dirtiest part of the filter. I went with the VW dealership filter since it cost only pennys more than parts stores version.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL456.../401520563.jpg