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Old 02-07-2012, 09:27 AM
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Default Help! Too many issues!

Hey first off I'd like to say thanks to every one on this forum, it's been a HUGE help in finding my issues so far. But anyway I'm new to this forum and a new driver of a 2000 beetle 2L GLS, manual.

The only reason I got this car was because someone lit my 1996 sunfire, on fire... and before I get questions of what I did to make someone that angry, haha, I'm pretty sure it was just a random act of vandalism and my car was the easiest to do it to! But as a quick fix I went to a car action and bought this beetle with 306000 km on it, I had my dad to listen to the bug when it was started, so they could move it, but unfortunately they wouldn't hand out the keys on auction day so you could really check it, other wise we would have seen the issues and not got it, and it was the only day we had to get there.

This is where my mess starts, on the drive home only a few short blocks, it started overheating. got it home expecting the worst; I bought a car with a blow head gasket, it's ruined, crap, get it away so I don't feel like such a tool for buying this. But it was the engine coolant hose flange, it was seriously effed. (please note that at this time i was twice as uneducated as i am now about any cars not just VW's. and I don't know my father excuse, seeing as he's a train heavy duty mechanic)

But after this we couldn't get the bug to start anymore; no power at all, but all car things go to to my dad (which i now know, is very old school) and he checked the fuses, can't find the issue and throws it up to bad alternator so 400 on that and still nothing!

Now is when I start to do what little I could do and research things online, and I had read a lot about bad ignition switch's and so we do that, still nothing, after pissing around for 2 months without a car (but learning a fair bit about them, and finding this site)I finally took it in to get it diagnosed, the asses charged me $160 for this (I've been trying to contact them to get the codes they found for the last week!) about a week and a half ago. turns out all along it was the exact fuse that I read about like 10 times, but never know what it looked like, and apparently neither did my dad. The one on the battery for the alternator, the metal clip looking thing that we didn't know was anything important.

So the car runs now! And we've changed the timing belt and the water pump, it was cracked on every single tooth, and the pump was pretty done too, probably had never been changed before. But it has died out on me twice since, once after driving around a little and then sitting in the driveway for about 10 mins, and it wouldn't start after. It would turn over but not start, we waited about an hour and then it went no problem. And later today I was waiting for a train and it died when I went to go into 1st. Tried to start three times then waited awhile and it started, it was a rough start. After doing some searching here I think it sounds like crankshaft position sensor, I found it for 25 on eBay so I ordered it, I've also read about ignition coil too or fuel injectors.

There are still many other problems! ABS light, Break Pads light, Air bags light (I've read about seat belt clips and wires under the seat), back hatch only opens with the key, when I use the buttons I hear it moving but not unlatching. The interior lights only turn on when I'm getting out of the car, so when I pull the key out of the ignition. Never when you open the doors to get in. When I've been driving for about 5 mins the Brake indicator light comes on flashing and beeping, causing me all kinds of panic haha I've read about the "comfort" fuse for this not sure where that is. I'm sure the drives door has been replaced, I think this could play into my no interior lights. I have no radio power! and no code even if I did have power. My gas cover doesn't pop open either. And no headlights, I've got bulbs, to check tomorrow. I know my fog lights work and high beams.

Well I think that covers it for now! But all help is appreciated!
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:28 AM
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I would replace the plugs and wires and clean the mass air flow sensor and throtle body. Use MAF cleaner only. Use only recomended heat range for plugs. I would do a voltage drop test on the charge cable for the battery. If it is bad , replace the cable only, you need not replace the whole harness. You can make one for about 20 bucks and make it larger, at least 4 awg. That cable has been known to go bad and can melt the fuse box ontop of the battery, (90 bucks). You are just going to have to chase down the electrical problems with a meter. You can do a ssearch for all these problems here on the ORG. Good luck!
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Old 02-07-2012, 01:00 PM
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Wow! All of those issue that you noted are all common with an NB of its age. I have two 2000 NB's and I have encountered all of those in the past; one at time for me.

The previous owner(s) ignored the maintenance and now you are left to deal with it. Hats off to you, because when you get them fixed you will enjoy your NB more than you know.

As ChantelZ indicated change the coil, plugs, and wires; clean the MAF and Throttle Body and their wire harness connectors. I would be helpful to clean the CAM and Speed Sensor connectors as well. Here is a link to some DIY Threads that might be helpful.

Also check every vacuum hose to see if they need replacing; especially if you still have the cloth braided ones.

See if you can find someone in your area that has VCDS (aka Vag-Com) and have them run a diagnostic scan.

Other than that it seems like you have everything under control.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:23 PM
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Default Found the problem

I think the stopping issue was the Crank shaft position sensor, found it on ebay for 25 replaced it without having to remove any thing although it was a pain. Every since I haven't randomly stopped in the middle of the street! Still a lot more to work on though, ABS light, Brake pad light, Air bag light, Engine light, And the E-brake light, comes on flashing and dinging, I noticed the button it damaged, do you think that could be the problem?
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:54 AM
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Nice to see that there was an inexpensive solution; which button is damaged?
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:18 PM
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Looks like you need someone with VAG-COM to start tracking down your issues. You need the codes to even know where to start for your ABS, Airbag, and CEL.
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:23 PM
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ABS diagnose for NBs are not difficult if you have VAG-COM. If you get codes related to wheel speed sensors just check the sensor wires and replace sensors although they are not cheap. You might be able to get these from a junkyard. If you get the pump code, then it's 80% the bad soldering on the controller board. It's not a small job but not gonna cost you too much except for replacing the brake fluid and bleed the brake system. Take the pump+controller assembly off then open the controller case with VIOLENCE but be careful not damaging the circuit board inside or you have to order a new one. On mine I used a saw blade. Then you'll find the 2 largest soldering points that go directly to the pump they are bad soldered. Resolder them, put back the cover then use some hot-melt glue to reseal then you can put it back.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:40 PM
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concur with the vag-com. where are you located?


vag-com locatormight also help find someone with one.

with the number of issues going on and possible future ones, it may even be worth investing in one of you own.
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